- What's the Deal with the Giraffe?One time, probably in Livingstone but it could have been elsewhere, I ordered two glasses of wine from the hostel bar, and as the bloke behind the counter corked the Merlot, I plonked Fred on the bar stool next to Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Jul 7, 2009
- Hamish...Going through some old photos a few days ago just for the heck of it, I stumbled across this:
I had completely forgotten that I had taken it, and don't know why i did. But it turns out that t Posted by Gelli in Gelli goes South-ish | Jul 4, 2009
- A Slow Zambian Get-AwayThe day of leaving Lusaka for good finally came, and oddly enough, it didn't feel like much; it didn't feel real, leaving my lovely family, and especially the kids.
Rich and I took a bus to Kapiri Mposhi, a nowhere town Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Apr 17, 2009
- The Ku'ombokaKuomboka is one of the many traditional ceremonies of the 73 tribes of Zambia, and quite possibly the biggest- certainly the best-known. As the plains around Mongu flood, the Lozi king is moved in a large barge and in an Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Apr 12, 2009
- Welcome to the Next Tick-Box, HoneyI left Namibia on a hot, packed bus, clutching a box of cheesecake and feeling slightly sunburnt, heading back to Livingstone, and my African motherland, Zambia.
Now, I wasn't hugely excited to come back to Zambia, but I did have a Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Apr 8, 2009
- Solace of the FamiliarThe day of leaving Lusaka finally came; the last party at the school- I rode to work in a rickety minibus, wearing a brand new red chitenge dress my tailor had made specifically for the occasion, and holding a huge Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Feb 20, 2009
- Last Thoughts on LusakaWhen I left our centre on Friday, fighting my way in the dusty heat into town, occasionally beating a leering man with my umbrella, I suddenly realised I only have to walk there and back five times- an incredibly uplifting Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Feb 8, 2009
- How to Catch a CriminalJust before Marianne, my Finnish friend, went back home, her backpack was stolen in Manda Hill, from Subway (out of all places), from under her seat as she was telling Sari and me about her plans for her last week.
A Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Jan 30, 2009
- Week in the Life of a VolunteerEver looked back at something, thinking it was just so odd? As my time in Lusaka is rapidly nearing it's end, the oddness of everything seems to have trebled. I keep seeing things that I wish I could just tape Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Jan 25, 2009
- ...But a Black JanuaryIn January, everything is quite bleak. It is, by far, the most boring month; people return to their offices, bleary and depressed, to find that the tinsel that circles their desk and which looked so festive last month simply seems Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Jan 16, 2009
- Almost RoseyWhen the shock of living in the ugliest city in the world had finally settled in, about two weeks after I arrived to Lusaka in early September, I started counting down the days until I get to go travelling. At Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Dec 16, 2008
- The Token White ChickMaybe I'm a bit naive, but I never really paid much attention to skin colour in general in Europe. I was certainly never particularly aware of being white. It's not like I looked in the mirror and thought, right, I'm Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Dec 13, 2008
- Danish Pig Fest in LusakaLast Friday morning, I had just finished reading the newspaper, biased and poorly-written like every day, and was wondering how I should spend the remaining seven hours of the day, when our director walked in.
"Maaret. We've been invited to the Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Dec 6, 2008
- Conversations With Cultural Differences"Do you have a boyfriend?” The very young man sitting across from my desk asked. It was silent, except for the rain pouring down; a very damp, grey Tuesday afternoon, and it reminded me of autumn back home. Our yard Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Dec 1, 2008
- Where There's a Will, There's a PubTwo weeks ago, Hanna and I got very very fed up with Lusaka. So fed up, in fact, that we had to get away. To anywhere. I was tired of getting home in the evenings after fighting my way through Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Nov 26, 2008
- (Funny?) Tales of the CityI spend half my life in Zambia waiting. I wait for buses, for people, for something to happen. It's hot, mid afternoon, and I'm trying to gather up my colleagues, trying to usher them together in the middle of the Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Nov 12, 2008
- A Hippo Under the TentLast month, when I first met the Polish Mafia, we had a great idea. We decided to do a road trip to South Luangwa National Park in the Eastern Province. Naturally, I took charge of the plan, picked a weekend Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Nov 6, 2008
- On the Verge of New Zambia?The tension on the high street's growing by the hour. People are more animated and vocal, and the population of Lusaka has seemingly tripled. I am at an internet cafe on the 11th floor in a city-centre high riser, and Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Oct 29, 2008
- Lusaka MorningsIt is hardly past seven a.m., but every living creature is already seeking shade and breeze. I pause quickly by the front gate, before venturing out into the world; I feel like a lion about to leave the zoo cage Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Oct 23, 2008
- The Great Visa Chase, Chapter 2The guy with the rifle slung across his chest taps me on the shoulder. He doesn't say anything, but just looks at me vacantly and gesticulates. I'm standing in the shade, and obviously a little too close to the ATM Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Oct 13, 2008
- It's not Negativity, But Just the Way It IsI was finishing my last class today, in our baking oven -style classroom, where the computers churn and add even extra heat to the already impossible work environment. I'd sent the girls home- my favourite class, the tailoring section girls, Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Oct 10, 2008
- Polish Mafia Meets Future HusbandIt's getting ridiculously hot. I know I've been a bit smug about the nice weather here, but the last few weeks, it's gone past my comfort threshold. In the evenings, I sit outside on the porch of the electricity-less house, Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Oct 2, 2008
- Kitchen Parties and the Agony of Love"oh my god, you are stressing yourself out", my boss said today when I came into my office holding a pile of paper I just copied. We had electricity for two hours today, which is good, and I managed to Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Sep 16, 2008
- First Day of SchoolEver had one of those middle-of-the-night sudden awakenings when you can't remember where you are? I have them often, sort of an occupational hazard, I think. I couldn't think who I was or, indeed, place myself for the life of Posted by Ofelia in Where is Maaret? | Sep 10, 2008
- KuombokaAnd so to the mythical ceremony of Kuomboka. Happily, it wasn't even mythical. It was a real ceremony. We even turned up on the correct weekend. Will wonders never cease?!
Partly because we had no firm information about, well, pretty much Posted by Gelli in Gelli goes South-ish | May 11, 2009