Justly famous traditional inn, five minutes' walk from the centre of town and about twenty from the Buna, surrounded by more modern buildings. Situated around a central courtyard, with English-speaking owners, the Tradita has the air of a museum. We found ourselves in a very traditional room, complete with a hookah pipe, a chest of costumes, two dummies in glass cases, a sheep's head, a pistol and a carved ceiling. However, despite two fans the August weather turned it almost literally into an oven, and we were obliged to move to a more modern one to get some sleep. Breakfast was generous, while the dinner - if a little overpriced compared to the rest of Albania - was good. The host was very helpful, and went out of his way to ease our difficulties. Strongly recommended, but you might be happier with an air conditioned alternative in high summer.
After a poor experience in Berat in a guest house in the same price category, we were fearing the worst with this one. We needn't have. Accommodation is in a proper hotel located in a prominent building up the hill at Gjirokaster, near the castle and above the quaint old streets. Although we booked a basic room it had comfortable beds, a good bathroom and air conditioning (the superior rooms have balconies and tremendous views). Reasonably priced restaurant and generous breakfast (eggs, cheese, beignets, mountain tea). Superb location, though without a car you'll need a taxi (400 lek) for ongoing transport at the Ora e Lumit, which is too far to walk. Slightly terse but really very friendly and helpful manager who can speak several languages. Thoroughly recommended. It even has a pet dog which looks like a lion.