I'm in Santa Marta right now...It certainly is the most organized of the Caribbean cities. And the ocean is blue...not brown like crap hole Cartagena. Taganga, where I dove this morning, is a VERY caribbean style town where the streets are all dirt and none of them are straight. I have discovered the WORLD'S GREATEST SANDWICH JOINT there. Called La Baguette. These things are ridiculous. The place is starting to shape up like Utila, with 14 dive shops competing. I just spent an hour and a half on top of one of the mountains surrounding Taganga watching a spectacular sunset. It really is worthwhile...
And this is where all the dreadlocks/clownpants set are hanging out in Colombia, selling their little wristband deals, making muesli and couscous, and sharing bananas cut into sixths. There is quite a little hippy commune hanging around there.
All in all, Santa Marta is three towns...Rodadero...which is mostly families from Bogota and Medellin vacationing, Santa Marta...The business centre, but with a decent beach(which I am looking at right now) and the port for the daily Cruise Ships...and Taganga, a bohemian enclave with a much younger diver set slowly, inexorably supplanting the fishermen who used to be the bread and butter of the town
All three towns are starved for a real pub though....Irishmen,where the hell are you??