Hi Heff
If you want to get off the beaten track try the High Atlas. There are endless valleys and villages up there, the locals are very friendly and it's very inexpensive. The best places are the most difficult ones to get to, so you need to be prepared to hike a bit or take a 4x4. There are local pickup trucks that work as buses, but you'll need a phrasebook as French isn't widely spoken.
I'd avoid any group tours; there's really no need for them.
If you want a real camel trek go to M'hamid. I have the telephone number of a really good guide - private message or email me for it if you wish.
Essaouira has kite surf, Sidi Kaouki has surfing, and there are numerous places between Essaouira and Agadir.
CTM and Supratours buses are cheap, clean but a little slow. Private buses can be both dangerous and unreliable - avoid them.
Trains are cheap, but they only run through the flatter parts of the country! 1st class is air conditioned, and they are a good way to travel.
Hire cars start at about 350dhs a day for a little car, up to 1,000dhs a day plus for a 4x4.