If you make it to Edinburgh after all then, to add to shimmer's post, other areas to explore are Marchmont, an upmarket tenement area to the south of the centre, then south west through Bruntsfield and Morningside, which has a snooty reputation that is probably no longer entirely justified. It's the really posh areas like the Grange which are near Morningside, that are deserving that reputation. Recommended pub worth a visit, the Canny Mans in Morningside, near the bottom of the hill.
Leith Walk, to the north-east of the centre, is almost like being in an entirely different city to Morningside, with the Boundary Bar marking the point where the city used to end and the port of Leith begin (as Spud, Irvine Welsh's most likeable character, mused on in his unfinished history of Leith in 'Porno'). I guess that to add to my previous post the real centre of Irvine Welsh's world is Easter Road stadium. not far from Leith Walk, the home of Hibernian FC.
Hibs' arch rivals incidentally, Heart of Midlothian (Hearts, the 'Jam Tarts') FC are based in the equally working-class neighbourhood of Gorgie-Dalry to the west of the city centre. Unlike in Glasgow the football rivalry in Edinburgh is predominantly geographical (east-west) not 'sectarian'. Between this area and studenty-almost posh Bruntsfield, is the neighbourhood of Fountainbridge, home to the McEwan's Lager brewery and former home to Sean Connery.
[ Edit: Edited on 18-Jul-2009, at 07:15 by Buzzcock ]