Travel Guide > Asia > Cambodia
Travellers to Cambodia will be richly rewarded by a little research into the country's recent history. Civil war, genocide and Western injustice are of central importance to contemporary Cambodia. Hostilities ended in the mid-1990s but the country continues to struggle to recover from the previous 20 years of violence. War has ceased but the power vacuum has quickly been replaced by a political system recognised as one of the most corrupt in the World.
Tourists are returning in large numbers, flocking to Angkor, a stunning complex of Buddhist monasteries uncovered in the heart of Cambodia's jungle. A visit to Phnom Penh, the nation's capital and best way to understand the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge, is a must for all travellers. Risk of violent crime is low but travellers to much of the country must be always vigilant for landmine risk. With an estimated 6 million unexploded devices Cambodia is the most heavily mined area of the world not at war.
Before the rise of Angkor there were several smaller Khmer empires like Funan, which was at its height from the 1st to 6th century AD, and the Chenla. The Khmer Empire, with its capital of Angkor, flourished from the 9th century till the 13th century. The empire shared close cultural ties to Java, at that time a Hindu empire, and India. The empire converted from Hinduism and Mahayana Buddhism to Theravada Buddhism in the 13th century. The main legacy of this empire are the amazing temples and city of Angkor. Many anthropologists believe that Angkor was the largest pre-industrial urban center in the world, covering a larger surface area than modern day New York City.
Angkor fell because of the inability the Kings to maintain infrastructure like canals for rice production and transportation. This might be because a growing population demanded too much water to support the canal system. At the same time, the neighboring Thai kingdom of Ayutthaya was growing in power. The Thais starting attacking in 1350 and continued to attack the Khmers until finally sacking the city of Angkor in 1431.
The period between the mid 15th century and the take over by France in 1863 is considered Cambodia's Dark Ages. The Thais and Vietnamese slowly spread into Cambodia's territory. When the Thais sacked the new capital of Odongk it was almost impossible for the Khmer government to recover because the Thais marched thousands of peasants, skilled artisans, scholars and members of the Buddhist clergy back to their capital. Without its brain and manpower, the Khmer empire further declined. The Vietnamese slow move into the Mekong delta also didn't help, and by the end of the 17th century the Vietnamese had complete control of the delta and the coastline. By the mid 18th century, the Vietnamese reached their current day borders. This made the Khmer Empire dependent on Vietnam's permission for sea trade. These events put the Khmer kings into a submissive position to their neighbors. The Vietnamese and Thais continued to fight over control of Cambodia until 1863.
In 1863, when Cambodia became a protectorate of France, the process of forcing the Vietnamese and the Thais to hand Cambodia over to the French started. In 1887, the French announced the formation of the Union of Indochina and the final piece was added in 1893, when France forced the Thais to annex Laos to them. Cambodia was viewed as the backwater of the colonial empire and very little development happened in the area.
France maintained control of the Khmer Kings and therefore maintained control of the country. The French built some roads and encouraged rice cultivation but not much else. A nationalist movement began to grow in the 1930s, which became particularly fervent during World War II. Shortly after the war, a young King Sihanouk successfully campaigned for complete independence from Cambodia, and France gave up power in 1953.
Cambodian history after colonialism is a shameful blemish on the records of powerful Western states and the United Nations. King Sihanouk was only able to keep the country out of neighboring wars for 15 years before he was forced to leave the country.
Heavy bombing of the Eastern half of Cambodia by American forces throughout the US/Vietnam war provided a rallying point for the Communist Khmer Rouge forces in defeating the US backed Lon Nol Government. The West's complete failure to then intervene to stop the horrible atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge in the latter half of the 1970s coupled with active support of the Khmer Rouge in forming a resistance to the Vietnamese caused incalculable damage to the country. It is somewhat ironic, in fact, that the nation's relief from Khmer rule came from communist Vietnam - a nation perceived as a threat to the West in the 1970s.
By the time the Vietnamese army pushed the Khmer Rouge from power 1.7 million people were killed in either extermination camps, forced labor or by starvation. The Vietnamese continued to fight in Cambodia until 1989 and only left because of massive international pressure.
The civil war did not officially end until 1998, when the Khmer Rouge officially surrendered, but there had been no heavy fighting since 1993. The peace process was slow throughout the 1990s. Elections finally happened in 1998. In the past few years, Cambodia has slowly been rebuilding itself - one shattered building and soul at a time.
Located between Latitude 10-15 and Longitude 102-108, Cambodia is bordered by Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and the Gulf of Thailand. The country has a topography reminiscent of a frying pan, with a flat central river basin of young alluvial deposits and highlands defining the borders. Between Lake Tonle Sap and the Gulf of Thailand lie the Cardamon Mountains rising to over 1800 metres. To the north of the central plain lie the Dangrek Mountains at around 500 m and the to the northeast, the fertile and volcanic Rattanak Kirri Plateau.
The Mekong river system and lake Tonle Sap dominate the lowland regions with an annual flood proving rich agricultural lands and freshwater fishing grounds. Joined to the Mekong by the unique Tonle Sap River, which reverses direction of flow twice a year, is the largest fresh water lake in Southeast Asia: Lake Tonle Sap. The flooding of the Mekong following seasonal melting of the Himalaya forces water into the lake which grows from around 3000 km² to 10 000 km².
Angkor is an ancient city with a collection of over a thousand temples, including the world's largest religious structure ever built: Angkor Wat. After entering one of the stunning gates lined with statutes into the ruined city, the number of stone carvings and statues can become overwhelming. Temple after temple, of a size and complexity that most nations would kill for just to have their hands on one. It is very easy to spend several days climbing and descending the absolutely amazing temples of Angkor.
Tonlé Sap is the large river lake in the center of Cambodia. For most of the year this lake is only a meter deep but during the rainy season Mekong reverses flow and the lake swells in size and become over 9 meters deep. It is the largest lake in South East Asia and of huge importance to Cambodia.
Although not as developed or as crazy as the beaches in Thailand, the beaches in Cambodia do have a certain charm and fun. Sihanoukville is the main beach town but several more beach towns are starting to appear further east down the coast. This is a great place to spend a few days enjoying the sun and surf, while at the same time enjoying some Angkor Beer.
Outside of Kratié there is a protected area for the rare Mekong River dolphin. Although you're not guaranteed to see one of the few fresh water dolphin species remaining, it is a nice trip. The river scenery is amazing and the boat ride is fun. Just remember that river dolphins do not make for great photos, so this is an experience to be enjoyed, not documented.
Cambodia has a hot and humid tropical climate. The country is dominated by the wet southwest monsoon from May to October and the dry northeast monsoon from November to April. Most of the rain falls in the southwestern hilly area and the coastline facing the Gulf of Siam. The central lower areas are somewhat drier but hotter.
Temperatures are between 23 and 26 degrees Celsius at night, and 30 to 35 degrees Celsius during the day most of the year, but April sees temperatures of 40 degrees occasionally. September and October are the wettest months.
Phnom Penh International Airport (PNH) is near the capital. Airlines serving the country are Royal Khmer Airlines from Seoul and Kuala Lumpur, Siem Reap Airways to and from Bangkok and Hong Kong. Other airlines are mainly the Asian ones of Malaysia, Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific. Air Asia flies to and from Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok.
Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport (REP) has about the same number of flights to the same destinations.
It's not possible to travel by train between Cambodia and the neighbouring countries directly.
Currently only citizens from other South East Asian countries can bring a car into Cambodia legally.
It is possible to take buses or shared taxis from all the countries around Cambodia to Cambodia. Although some border crossings are much easier to cross then compared to others. The most difficult borders to cross at are usually the borders with Laos because of corruption that come in the from of some sort of "stamp fee." It can also involve a switch of buses or cars at the border.
Although you can travel from Thailand to Cambodia using a combination of boats and (mini)buses, it's not possible to travel directly by boat between the two countries anymore.
There is a ferry from Phnom Penh in Cambodia to Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta. Tickets can be booked through local travel agents or at the dock. In additional there is a service from Can Tho to Phnom Penh.
It is possible to fly between the two major airports in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. There is talk about building additional airports in the country but no much has come from it.
Trains are super slow and not worth using. Many travellers have had horrible incidents on Cambodian trains, watching people and buses go faster then the train was moving. If you are a dire hard train fan it is possible to ride a train from Sihanoukville all the way to Phnom Penh.
In the more remote areas of the country or west of Siem Reap it is best to hire a car in order not to feel the pain of the horrible roads. The other highways linking Siem Reap to Sihanoukville are great. Just remember that jungle roads can be a bit dangerous and 4 wheel drive might be a good idea during the rainy season.
Local 'taxis' in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh are often the back of a scooter. 99% of these are used without any kind of safety helmet. Sometimes these scooters have a rickshaw-style covered chair attached to the back. In Siem Reap it is possible to hire good quality bikes and scooters for the day which is a good way to take explore the temples at your own pace. Again, these are not provided with any kind of safety equipment.
To the east of Siem Reap, the roads are great and buses are the easiest way to get around the country. There are several bus companies linking the different cities multiple times a day. Departure and arrival points are constantly changing though, so it is best to buy tickets from a guesthouse and have them arrange transport to the buses starting point.
It is still possible to take boats on many of Cambodia's large rivers. Sadly, less and less people are doing it because of and improved road and bus system. Most boats leave very early in the morning, take all day, and are more expensive then buses.
If you feel like using boats, the most popular services include Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Siem Reap to Battambang and Sihanoukville to Koh Kong. The latter can be a good option when travelling between Cambodia and Thailand during certain times of the year.
Citizens of Laos, Malaysia, Philippines and Singapore don't have to get a visa to enter Cambodia.
E-Visa
For everyone else, e-Visa for Cambodia is available to citizens of pretty much any country.[1] The e-visa permits a single entry and stay of up to 30 days. It costs US$25 (US$20 + $5 processing charge) and takes three days to be processed.
The e-Visa is only accepted at the following checkpoints:
All other checkpoints do not accept e-Visa. (view map)
Visa On Arrival
It is also possible to obtain a visa on arrival at selected checkpoints between Cambodia and Thailand (Cham Yeam, Poi Pet and O’Smach) and Vietnam (Bavet, Kha Orm Sam Nor, Koh Rohka), as well as Phnom Penh and Siem Reap airports.[2] The process is very easy therefore you don't need help from any of the touts. The visa fee is US$20, though visitors are advised to be wary of border officials trying to overcharge them by making them pay in Thai baht. To avoid getting overcharged, try following this Travellerspoint member's advice:
It is not easy to pay the official rate, but it can be done. You have to be out of baht and repeatedly point out the fee is $20.
See also: Money Matters
Official currency is the riel, the de facto official rate (as in Jan 2007) being 4,000 riels to the US dollar. The US dollar is accepted virtually everywhere, so you could well hand over dollars and get change in riels according to the above rate. For major purchase, like plane tickets, hotel rooms, entrance tickets to sights or expense gifts people want dollars. For smaller purchase on the street such as food, snacks, coffee or water it is better to use riel.
Working in Cambodia can be very rewarding although most people do not make much money. Most foreigners work as English teachers although there is a growing number people working in international aid and other NGOs.
SAGE Foundation Schools
SAGE Foundation Schools, near Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat), welcomes offers of volunteer help for one week or longer.
A total of around 1400 children are supported through these schools, many of whom would otherwise have few educational opportunities in this poor rural area. No fees are charged for this volunteer work but participants must be prepared to cover their own living expenses in Siem Reap and daily travel to and from the schools (43km).
There is a particular need for native English speakers to teach or assist (formal teacher trained or not). The schools are currently in recess until October, so the schools are seeking willing hands to help decorate/renovate some of the classrooms.
Please contact Andy or Emily through the Asia forum.
The University system is slowly starting to repair itself after the civil war. This makes studying at them pretty difficult and the resources are limited. It is also possible to study Buddhism at many of the temples spread across the country.
Khmer 95%, English, French, Minority languages.
Many of the younger people in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have at least a grasp of English, Korean or Japanese.
Cambodia food is mainly rice with some sort of curry, more like Thai curry then Indian curry. For people that don't like curry there is plenty of places serving cheap and good western food across the country. There is also plenty of fresh fruit to eat, but most Khmers like to eat there fruit a little under ripe.
Cambodia has a great diversity in lodging. From dingy rooms with no windows or fans for a $1 a night to five star hotels with western prices. This means finding the right housing for any traveller can be very easy. It is best to ask around for good recommendations for hotels because new ones are being added daily.
Angkor Beer is the national beer and is very good and easy to get anywhere. Most spirits are imported from neighboring Thailand, although they are still well priced. It is possible to buy buckets at most of the bars in the beach areas of Cambodia, and they seem to be bit stronger than the ones in the islands of Thailand.
See also: Travel Health
Be sure to contact your local medical authorities prior to departure, such as your local GP or travel clinic. Arranging a last minute trip to Cambodia shouldn't be a problem for a healthy person. Be sure to always bring along your vaccination documents, if you have these. Of course, it's best to arrange vaccinations well before departure if at all possible.
There is a risk of contracting Malaria in Cambodia all year round, especially beyond the larger cities. Therefore it is very important to limit the risk of contracting Malaria by taking preventative measures such as by taking Malaria medication. Other preventative measures are: covering arms, legs and feet in the evening, wearing mosquito repellent and using mosquito-netting to keep mosquitoes at bay. You can also saturate the mosquito-netting with a mosquito repellent. Also, be sure to bring something to hang your mosquito-netting up with such as rope and a screw-hook or cork-screw (Swiss army knife). The type of Malaria medication you should take depends on the length of your stay, your personal medical background and the area that you wish to visit. Advice on Malaria medication is quite personal; therefore it's best to get advice about your personal situation from medical authorities.
These are both illnesses which are spread by mosquitoes; therefore you should take the same precautions to ward of infection as you would for Malaria. There is no vaccine for Dengue; however there is a vaccine for Japanese B-encephalitis. Vaccination is recommended if you are planning on staying in Asia for more than 6 months.
Preparing your own first-aid kit for the tropics (or buying one) is a smart move. There are also books available on how to stay healthy in the tropics that can help you put together your first-aid kit. Most places that offer vaccinations will provide some information on health. Hypochondriacs will probably enjoy reading about all the dangers of the tropics and fear that the first headache is a symptom of something much more severe (as some travellers tend to do). Try not to become too engrossed in books documenting tropical diseases.
If you are on medication, be sure to bring along the patient information leaflet. Also be sure to bring along extra medication so that you won't have to worry about finding a Cambodian pharmacy if you do lose some of your medication. Bring along an English explanation from your doctor regarding the medicine you are taking. If applicable, you may also want to bring along a clean set of syringes and needles. Remember to bring along a doctor's statement for these as well.
If you wear glasses or contact lenses, bring along the optician's description or an extra pair of glasses or set of contact lenses.
Be sure that you have received the correct vaccinations for your holiday destination. It's also important to try to be as healthy as possible prior to departure. Of course you will also want to avoid becoming ill while you are on holiday. Remain vigilant about your health, when in doubt, consult a doctor. There are no hospitals up to western standards in Cambodia. In case of a medical emergency requiring surgery or the need of a specialist evacuate to Bangkok at once. The medical care in Cambodia is basic at best.
The common travellers' 'ailment' known as "Jet lag" is caused by a disruption to your biological clock (primarily your sleeping and waking rhythms) due to flying through different time zones. The body needs time to adjust to the new biorhythm for the first few days after your flight. During this time you can feel tired and irritable. Try to avoid drinking coffee or alcohol during the flight or do so in limited amounts. On arrival in Cambodia, try not to demand too much of your body for the first couple of days. It's also best to adjust to the time-difference and the new sleeping rhythm as quickly as possible. It might be worth having an hours sleep after arrival and then remaining awake until (early) bedtime.
A change of rhythm, climate and food (especially spicy food) can cause your stomach to become out of sorts. As long as your only symptom is loose, watery stools and no other symptoms, you should be just fine if you rest a bit and drink plenty of water in small quantities. It may be necessary to take some Oral Rehydration Salts (ORS) dissolved in water to prevent dehydration and this is especially important for the elderly and also for children. Drugs, such as loperamide and diphenoxylate, can be taken if you really need to when on the road to prevent diarrhoea (not suitable for children under two years old). These drugs prevent the peristaltic action of the intestine, which stops stomach cramps and suppresses the diarrhoea. Only use these drugs when you're on the road and do not have regular access to a toilet. If diarrhoea persists for more than 48 hours and is also accompanied by headache, vomiting, or blood in the stool or if you’re taking any other medication at the time, you should contact a doctor. The doctor can send a stool sample to a lab for analysis to determine the source of the problem. Diarrhoea can end suddenly, but can leave a lingering feeling of lethargy since your intestines need time to recover.
Only consume water and soft drinks from properly closed and sealed tins or bottles, or drink boiled water; such as tea or coffee. Ice is trustworthy in the form of machine-produced ice cubes. Fruit juice is safe, provided no water has been added. Food, particularly meat and fish, must be well cooked. We advise against the western-style salads offered in salad bars (in expensive hotels). Hamburgers are generally a lot less safe than the normal meat the locals eat. It's not always safe to eat from street stalls in Cambodia. Eat where it's busy, the time between food preparation and consumption is shortest over there, which is good for the hygiene. Take note of how the plates, glasses and cutlery are washed. There is often no running water and only a bucket with soap in it, baking in the sun. If that is the case, it's sensible to find somewhere else to eat. Restaurants where you can see how clean it is are recommended. With regards to street stalls, it’s probably smart not to eat meat at the end of the day; the meat can sometimes have been lying around all day un-refrigerated. A tried and trusted remedy to prevent dehydration during diarrhoea is to drink cola and bouillon (not at the same time). Cola can be bought everywhere and you can bring stock cubes and a single-cup beverage with you back hom.
Sunstroke can be prevented by wearing a hat, and sunglasses. Always keep a bottle of water with you, especially if you're in the wilderness and unlikely to come across drinking water. If you suspect sunstroke (feeling light-headed, headaches), you can prevent it from getting worse by drinking water and finding somewhere in the shade to sit and stay there, if possible.
If you have a fever, bowel problems or other physical complaints of an unknown nature after you return home (up to several months after your return home), contact your doctor and let him/ her know you've been in Cambodia and inform him/her on the length of your stay and what you've done there.
See also: Travel Safety
Other than unexploded ordinances, Cambodia is pretty safe. In order to avoid unexploded ordinances, it is best to stay on marked trails at all times. This is because every year land mines that have been buried by rains can resurface meaning places have to regularly be cleared. The other common threat to travellers is pick pockets. Make sure you watch your bags and pockets at all times from pick pockets, many of whom are street children. Some of them are very skilled and can get violent if confronted. Lastly, watch out walking on the beach late at night alone in some areas of the coast, as there have been some attacks on travellers. One attack involved a traveller getting stabbed by a local gang on the beach at around 10 pm.
Internet bars are starting to appearing in most major towns in Cambodia. The connection speed tends to slow and most places only have a few computers. Remember to take off your shoes when you enter as sign of respect and to watch out for small shrines that are on the ground.
See also: International Telephone Calls
The country calling code to Cambodia is: 855
To make an international call from , the code is: 001
Many the of the internet bars also having international calling options.
Post internally in the country is pretty weak and for mailing outside of the country it is best to do it only in major cities.
This is version 91. Last edited at 22:51 on Sep 24, 09 by Hien (-2). 32 articles link to this page.
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