Cusco
Travel Guide > South America > Peru > Cusco
Introduction
Cusco (also known as Cuzco or Qusqu) was the capital of the Incan Empire before the Spanish invasion and the subsequent creation of a new capital at Lima. Today Cusco is a large city that has expanded so far it is literally crawling up the walls of the valley that contains it.
Neighbourhoods
The area around the Plaza de Armas contains the majority of tourist-related facilities such as hotels, restaurants, tour companies and equipment stores. This area also houses the most impressive churches buildings in the city.
Uphill from the Plaza de Armas is the neighborhood of San Blas, the art district of Cusco. There you´ll find many cafes and restaurants, as well as the Plaza San Blas with its Iglesia San Blas.
Sights and Activities
The Inca Trail
Most of the tour operators for the Inca Trail are based in Cusco, which makes the town a stepping stone on to the popular hike. The Inca Trail actually starts at 82Km, outside Cusco, and generally takes a 4 day hike to reach the Machu Picchu ruins.
Plaza de Armas
The Plaza de Armas houses the two main cathedrals in Cusco as well as a large open park with plenty of seats. Surrounding the Plaza are numerous balcony restaurants that allow you to enjoy a drink while watching the manic activity below.
Avenida Sol
The Avenida Sol, leading away from the main Plaza has the tourist information office (i-Peru) as well as a small park in front of the Qorichinka museum, a monastery built on top of a partially demolished Inca sun temple.
Inca Museum
The Inca museum is located just off the Plaza de Armas, on a steep road leading to Plaza Nazarenas, this houses many significant artefacts but the descriptions can be a bit lacking so it is worth getting a guide at the desk, for the cost of a tip.
Sachsayhuaman
Heading out of town up the hill to Sachsayhuaman is well worth a visit, the sheer enormity of the site is dificult to comprehed without actually seeing it, it also offers spectacular views over Cusco. You can arrange horse rides from Cusco or the hawkers at the gates to Sachsayhuaman which can last from 2 hours to a whole day and will take you around the other sacred Inca sites that litter the plateau above Cusco, no horse riding experience is needed.
Museo de Arte Precolombino
The Museo de arte precolombino is well worth a visit, the pieces are well displayed and lit even if the descriptions are rather pretentious and lacking in historical detail.
Markets
The market, just outside the Machu Picchu train station is worth a visit, but the feint-hearted may wish to avoid the meat section. There is a wide range of locally produced fruit, coffee, chocolate and other foodstuffs on sale.
The handicraft market, a short way down Avenida Sol, is also worth a visit and the amount of competition means reasonable prices on the items.
Pisac
The nearby town of Pisac has a large tourist market on Sundays (I think) with a smaller but still respectable tourist market all other days of the week. This is one of the cheaper places to buy souvenirs. You can easily get there by bus, taxi or even cycle it (about 20km).
Sacred Valley
The Sacred Valley encompasses everything between Ollantaytambo and Pisac. Many Tour companies in Cusco offer day trips to the multitude of Inca sights in the valley.
Events and Festivals
Weather
Tends to be dry/wet depending on the season, however the altitude (3,500m) means that when the sun is not out it can get very cold, very quick.
Getting There
By Plane
Daily flights from Lima, Juliaca (Puno) and Arequipa among other places. The airport is in the suburbs and is a 10 min taxi ride to the Plaza de Armas. The flight itself offers a great view of the valley as it comes in to land. The airline offices are located along the Avenida Sol. Taxis from the airport cost approx S/ 10; buses are available.
By Train
There are two train lines, one to Machu Picchu and the other (at a separate station) to Arequipa via Juliaca and Puno. Both offer a range of classes right up to the Orient Express luxury class. The local train to Machu Picchu, however, is not available to tourists.
By Car
Main roads lead to Lima, Puno and Arequipa and are mostly tarmac. The Sacred Valley, along the Urubamba river is also tarmacked, but many of the other roads are dirt tracks of varying quality.
By Bus
Buses are probably the easiest way to travel in and out of Cusco and there are services (including overnight ones) to all the major cities in the area. Most of the buses leave from their respective companies offices, these are based around the Huanchac Train Station. From Lima, there are three possible routes:
- Via Nazca and Abancay. This is the quickest route, and takes about 18 hours. The scenery is breath-taking, but the road is extremely curvy, so not recommendable to those prone to car sickness
- Via Arequipa and Puno. This route takes only slightly longer than the one via Nazca, but is a much quieter ride.
- Via Huancayo and Ayacucho. Timewise, this is a massive detour, as the route takes you about 30 hours to complete. On the other hand, the route is a very nice non-touristy alternative to both the coastal routes, and takes you through a region of Peru that is little visited.
Getting Around
By Car
The roads in and around Cusco are largely of good quality. Traffic in the city itself is very heavy but once out into the countryside it quickly thins out.
By Public Transport
There are small minibuses running all over the city and to nearby towns. These usually cost S/ 0.50. Taxis are to be found everywhere, but be sure to hail one with a current permit (large circular sticker on windscreen) and which has the number plate written on the side of the car at the rear. Any trip in the main part of the city will cost S/ 4-5.
By Foot
The tourist area around the Plaza de Armas, Avenida Sol and Sachsayhuaman is easily accessible by foot.
By Bike
Bicycles are available for hire and one day can allow you a visit to Pisac and along the sacred valley or just cycling around the plateau above Cusco visiting Sachsayhuaman. Be wary of vehicles however, they show little regard for cyclists.
Eat
At a number of the more expensive restaurants surround the Plaza de Armas, main courses range from S/ 20-60. Just off of the Plaza are cheaper restaurants of varying quality, some offering meals for as little as S/ 2.50.
Drink
The majority of nightclubs are around the Plaza de Armas, including well known spots like Mama Afrika and Kamikazi. Don't panic if you can't find one, there are so many touts around the plaza at night you stand a good chance of being pushed into a nightclub without even asking!
Sleep
As with most Peruvian cities the area around the Plaza de Armas contains a large portion of the city's accommodation. The San Blas area, between the Plaza de Armas and Sachsayhuaman, houses a large amount of budget accommodation and hostels.
Budget
Loki Hostel, popular with backpackers.
Mid-Range
Hostal Loreto, Calle Loreto (just off Plaza de Armas), 115 226352
Hotel Maybey, Av. Tacna. Close to Huanchac train station and the bus stations.
Upscale
Hotel Casa Andina
Work
Keep Connected
Internet
Internet cafés are located everywhere, especially in the roads leading away from the Plaza de Armas.
Phone
Pay phones and mobile call sellers are located along most major roads.
Post
The main post office is located on the Avenida Sol.
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