Travel Guide > Asia > China > Yunnan > Dali
Sitting under the towering peak of Cang Shan Mountain, next to serene Er Hai lake, Dali (大理) couldn't have a more dramatic setting. Well established on tourist itineraries for both Western and Chinese travellers, Dali is blessed with a interesting restored old town, refreshing climate and great countryside. Dali is home to the Bai people, and examples of Bai architecture and tradition still survive around the town.
Note that the Dali referred to by travellers and guidebooks is the old town of Dali. Boarding a bus for 'Dali' may land you at Xiaguan, a rather less interesting modern conurbation 10 miles up the road.
China Eastern Airlines, China Southern Airlines and Lucky Air fly from Kunming to Dali Airport (DLU).
It is possible to reach Kunming by train from Xiaguan. This is as far as it is currently possible to travel by train in Northern Yunnan.
Dali is well connected to the rest of Yunnan by fast roads.
There are extremely frequent bus connections, at a range of levels of comfort and corresponding prices, both to Kunming and on into Northern Yunnan to destinations including Lijiang and Shangri-La.
Local buses run to villages around town. It's also possible to catch a ferry or charter a boat across Er Hai lake. Taxis are easy to find and moderately priced. A cable car runs halfway up Cang Shan Mountain.
The old town, from the foot of the mountain to the shore of the lake, is easily explored on foot.
Dali is cycle friendly, and bikes are available to hire from hostels and cycle shops.
The speciality of the area is fish from Er Hai lake. Every day the fisherman bring their catch back, alive, to the town's cafes. The fish are held in tanks outside, and passers by can choose exactly what they're going to eat before sitting down to dinner. The fish can be cooked in any one of a variety of ways, but a particular favourite is a fish hotpot - your chosen fish is cooked in front of you, to your liking, in a hot and sour broth.
Being well established on the traveller's trail, Dali has more than its fair share of traveller-oriented bars selling banana pancakes and Heineken by the glass. You'll get a cheaper beer, and a better idea of real Dali, if you take a seat upstairs in a cheap noodle-and-dumplings place, order a bowl of fried dumplings and a chilled Tsingtao, and watch the world go by.
There are plenty of extremely cheap hostel options in Dali.
This is version 9. Last edited at 16:46 on Jun 29, 08 by Lavafalls (+12). 5 articles link to this page.

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