Goa

Introduction

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Swaying palms, white sands and sparkling waters: the three essential elements that attract 2 million visitors annually to Goa’s balmy shores are plentiful in this tiny, glorious slice of India hugging the country’s western coastline and bounded by the Arabian Sea. Cheap accommodation options (as well as extremely luxurious places) helps make Goa a great place to unwind after a trip through the rest of India.

Goa is the smallest state in India and located along the southwestern coastline. A solitary Portuguese outpost in India for almost 500 years, the influence of colonial rule can still be seen everywhere: in the exquisite, crumbling architecture; in the east-meets-west cuisine which combines coconut milk, palm vinegar and chillies with the refined flavours of Lisbon; in the melancholy strains of fado that still waft occasionally on the bougainvillea-scented breeze; and in the siesta-saturated joie de vivre that Goans themselves call susegad.

Nowhere else in India will you find the laid-back languidness of a Goan lunchtime, the easy charms of its people or the soothing serenity of a day on its beaches. Here in Goa, a herd of water buffalo will greet you at breakfast; a lily-covered lake might provide the scenery for your morning walk; a sea eagle will be your afternoon companion along a deserted stretch of pristine beach; a gorgeously spice-laden vindalho (vindaloo) might make your evening repast and a fiery glass of cashew-palm feni liquor your bedtime tonic.

But there's far more to discover here than the exquisite pleasure of warm sand between your toes. Pep up your stay with a wander around a vanilla-scented spice plantation, stroll the bird-filled banks of the state's gentle rivers, poke around centuries-old cathedrals, and venture out to white-water waterfalls.

All is not perfect in paradise, however, and Goa has problems aplenty - the state's environment, in particular, is sorely taxed. Nevertheless, with a slowly growing group of environmentalists and ecofriendly individuals on the scene, the picture remains relatively rosy for this most magical of miniature states. So, come, minimise your impact as much as possible, and unwind to the swaying palms and Portuguese rhythms of Goa's still-irresistible charms.

Geography

The state of Goa is located between Latitudes 15 degrees, 48'00" N and between 14 degrees, 53'54" N and Longitudes 74degrees, 20'13" E and 73 degrees 40" 33" E. It is located at 1,022 metres above sea level. It has a land area of 3,702 square kilometres and has a coast line of 104 kilometres. Goa is bounded on the north by Sindhudurg district of Maharastra state, on the west by the Arabian sea, on the South by Karwar district of Karnataka state and on the East by Belgaum district of Karnataka state. The highest mountain is Sonsogor in the Sahyadri range of the Western Ghats which is about 1,200 metres.

Cities

Panaji is the state's capital, while Vasco da Gama is the largest city. The historic city of Margao still exhibits the influence of Portuguese culture, who first landed in the early 16th century as merchants, and conquered it soon thereafter. The Portuguese overseas territory existed for about 450 years, until it was annexed by India in 1961.
Other cities and towns include:

• Old Goa
• Mapusa
• Ponda
• Calangute
• Candolim
• Chaudi
• Sanvordem-Quepem
• Bicholim
• Pernem town
• Canacona
• Fort Aguada
• Calangute
• Ponda taluka

Beaches

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One reason to visit Goa is its beaches. About 125 kilometres of the coast line is dotted with beaches. These beaches are divided into North Goa and South Goa Beaches. The further north or south you go, the more isolated the beaches get. However, if one is looking for people, then a visit to some of the more popular beaches like Baga and Anjuna would provide. These beaches are lined with shacks that provide fresh sea food and drinks. Some shacks arrange special events to attract more customers. The Colva beach located in the south Goa is also called as the white sand beach.

Baga Beach

The Baga Beach located 10 kilometres west of Mapusa and is actually an extension of Calangute beach with clean white sand. Baga is a small but perfect beach located between two famous beaches, Colva and Calangute. It is a fishing beach with foreigners bathing in the sun other tourists swimming in the cool azure waters.

Like the flea market of Anjuna, Baga has started a Saturday night market, which is quite impressive but somehow lacks the liveliness and splendor of the Anjuna market. The beach also has many beach shacks and beach huts that sell delicious Goan food and thirst-quenching Feni.

The quiet atmosphere and isolated location of Baga, beside the scenic beauty that surrounds it, with the creek and the Retreat House perched have contributed to the beach being a favourite of the beach lovers. Baga beach is very popular with western tourists who love to use it as a base for water sports and fishing in the area.

Baga's nightlife is the liveliest in the area with live bands playing at most restaurants outlets. Most of the travellers end up at Tito's. The lively Saturday night market here is much like the Wednesday flea market at Anjuna, only prettier under the night sky and lit up with lamps. There are plenty of handicrafts shops. Here stalls sell all kinds of bric-a-brac, clothes, trinkets, exotic delicacies and Goanese Cuisine. Funky haircuts, tarot reading, palmistry, wood carvings are also available. Plus live bands who create a carnival like ambience simply makes the place rock.

Calangute Beach

Calangute Saturday night market was popular but that was for day breakers. Now Baga has one run by Ingo at Mackies by the Baga River. Selling and buying to the accompaniment of light music under UV lights is quite interesting since it draws hawkers from here, there and every where in the World.

Arambol (Harmal)

Unlike most of Goa, Arambol has managed to remain true to its hippie roots. It is a beautiful crescent-shaped stretch of beach in the north of the tiny province, popular with backpackers and long term travellers.

The vibe is very laid back, with trance and dance blasting from makeshift bars only at the very peak of the high season (December/January). Before and after this period, the nightlife is mainly composed of hippies drumming in the moonlight and the dancing flames from fire jugglers. And perhaps the best thing about this little pocket of Goa is the atmosphere. There's a real bohemian sense of community here, as you'll see at breakfast around the long shared tables in lovely Double Dutch and the open mike nights at the Loeki Cafe.

Accommodation here is cheap cheap cheap - but you'll need to arrive before mid-November to bag a real bargain. The food in Arambol also helps to make this backpacker bliss, with every kind of cuisine available under the Indian sun. It's just a brilliant place for a prolonged breather if you're travelling around India and is highly recommended.

Palolem

Palolem is the southernmost beach in the tiny province of Goa, and pipped as an idyllic, unspoilt beach paradise by many guidebooks. This both is and isn't true. It seems that since the guidebooks leaked the secret of Palolem, it has had been overrun by tourists, many of them after english breakfasts and cocktails. The main drag of Palolem beach is no longer unspoilt, but lined instead with western-style bars and restaurants owned by expats that spill down onto the beach. Behind this beachfront, maekshift beach huts pop up in their dozens ready for high season (December - March). The atmosphere is great, and it's a good place to party for a couple of days, but it most certainly isn't the beach escape described so affectionately in the Lonely Planet of a few years ago.

However, if you head further south along the beach, you'll find Patnem, which is a small beach commune-type area for those really hoping to get away from it all, and lots of basic shack accommodation. Many long-term backpackers head for this area, and choose to dip in and out of the bright lights rather than stay in central Palolem.

Sights and Activities

Markets

Arpora Night Market
All things bright and beautiful. That’s INGO’S - the Saturday Night Market in Arpora. And what a market it is! The place is truly what you call a 'melting pot' of cultures. From multi-coloured hammocks and bikinis to shoes, bags and psychedelic t shirts - you name it, you have it here! Some of the changing rooms are amazingly designed. Resplendent with creatures great and small - great ‘coz without them, you’d never realise that bizarre can be hot, and small - well that’s what you might feel like in comparison. Seriously, each person there was a walking- talking fashion statement. There's amazing food on sale as well. From Mexican to Israeli to the organic and the oily and Punjabi, anything your intestines could possibly growl for is here. Live music and beer flowing like water just adds to the fun.

Other Markets
Night Markets are popular for its hawkers from here, there and everywhere in the world. Two of the most famous such market areas are Mapusa and Anjuna. The Friday Market at Mapusa, where stalls sell everything from curios and old coins to dried fish and spices. The Wednesday Market at Anjuna Beach started by and for foreigners is an extremely lively spot where souvenirs, beachwear, trinkets and handicrafts are sold at bargain prices.

• Anjuna Market - The famous Anjuna market, known more popularly as the flea market is held on every Wednesday in a grove of coconut palms between the rocky beach of Anjuna and the fallow rice paddies. The concept of flea market was started by the hippies in early 1980s, when they used to gather at the same place in Anjuna while many needy foreigners used to sell their electronic items or barter other stuffs to the locals. It is a mad, chaotic world of colours, crowds, shouting, clamor and clatter and all manner of goods from fabrics, ornamental crafts, spices, clothing, local Goanese, Kahmiri and Tibetan handicrafts and Goan trance music.
• Calangute Market Square is only 15 kilometres north from the Goan capital, Panaji. The beach stretches about four miles and is covered with palm trees. The streets of Calangute are packed with shops offering a wide range of goods, namely souvenirs, metal crafts, leather items, clothes and jewellery, not just from Goa, but from other parts of the country as well. The beach stretch is full of shacks, hawkers selling sarongs or astrologers or fortune-tellers waiting eagerly to read the fortune of the tourists. There is also a Tibetan market in Calangute. Kashmiri merchants also frequent Goa with carpets, embroidery, and other merchandises.
• Mapusa Market - Mapusa, a small town huddled around the Mount (Alto) is Mapusa, 13 kilometres away from Panaji, has been the market hub of North Goa since ancient times even before proper roads were constructed. Mapusa market is also fondly known as ‘Mapusa Friday Market’ as it takes place every Friday. Goan customers prefer to buy fresh foodstuffs every few days, thus the Mapusa Market has plenty of fresh fish, a variety of locally produced vegetables, and exotic fruits from jackfruit and mangoes to plantain bananas. Pickles and preserves, spices, earthen pots, glass bangles, channa baskets coir mats, and the famous Goan 'chouricos' (ready spiced Goan pork sausages), dried fish and prawns, clothing, junk jewelry, and the famous country liquor are all sold at the most reasonable prices one could possibly find.

Other Sights and Activities

• Goa has two World Heritage Sites: the Bom Jesus Basilica and a few designated convents. The Basilica holds the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, regarded by many Catholics as the patron saint of Goa (the patron of the Archdiocese of Goa is actually the Blessed Joseph Vaz). Once every twelve years, the body is taken down for veneration and for public viewing. The last such event was conducted in 2004. The Velhas Conquistas regions are also known for its Goa-Portuguese style architecture. There are many forts in Goa such as Tiracol, Chapora, Corjuem, Aguada, Gaspar Dias and Cabo de Rama.
• In many parts of Goa, mansions constructed in the Indo-Portuguese style architecture still stand, though in some villages, most of them are in a dilapidated condition. Fontainhas in Panaji has been declared a cultural quarter, showcasing the life, architecture and culture of Goa. Some influences from the Portuguese era are visible in some of Goa's temples, notably the Mangueshi Temple and the Mahalasa Temple, although after 1961, many of these were demolished and reconstructed in the indigenous Indian style.
• Goa also has a few museums, the two important ones being Goa State Museum and the Naval Aviation Museum. Admission to the Goa State Museum, which is located in Panjim is free; while admission to the National Aviation Museum, which is located in Vasco is around 6 rupees. The Aviation museum is the only one of its kind in the whole of India. Also, a place not well known to tourists is the Goa Science Center, which is located in Panjim.

Events and Festivals

Goa organizes many theme events that are extremely popular among the locals as well as the tourists. Some of the main events organized in Goa are:

• Feast of the Novena (Held in mid-January)
• Procession of the Saints (Held in late March or early April)
• Goa Carnival (Held in mid-April)
• Feast of Our Lady of Miracles (Held in mid-April)
• Igitun Chalne (Held in mid-May)
• Feast of St. Anthony (Held on June 13th)
• Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul (Held on June 29th)
• Feast of St. Lawrence (Held in late August)
• Fama de Menino Jesus (Held on the second Monday in October)
• St. Francis Day/Feast of St. Francis Xavier (Held on December 3rd)
• Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (Held on December 8th)

Christian Festivals in Goa:

• Feast of Three Kings (Held on January 6th)
• Good Friday or Easter (Held in late March or early April)
• Sao Joao Festival (Held on June 24th)
• Bonderam Festival (Held in late August)
• Christmas (Held in December)

Hindu Festivals in Goa[/u]:

• [b]Shigmotsav of Holi (Held in mid-March)
• Naag Panchami (Held in mid-July)
• Krishna Janmashtami (Held in august or September)
• Ganesh Chaturthi (Held in early September)
• Navratri (Held in late September)
• Dussehra Or Durga Puja (Held in early October)
• Diwali or Deepavali (Held in October or November)
• Konkani Festival in Goa
• Konkani Drama Festival (Held in late November or early December)

Other Popular Festivals of Goa:

• Pop, Beat and Jazz Music Festival (Held in mid-February)
• Beach Bonanza (Held in mid-May)
• Goa Heritage Festival (Held in mid-November)
• Tiatr Festival (Held in mid-November)
• Goa Food and Cultural Festival (Held in late November or early December)

Weather

Goa, being in the tropical zone and near the Arabian Sea, has a hot and humid climate for most of the year. The month of May is the hottest, seeing day temperatures of over 35 °C coupled with high humidity. The monsoon rains arrive by early June and provide a much needed respite from the heat. Most of Goa's annual rainfall is received through the monsoons which last till late September.
Goa has a short winter season between mid-December and February. These months are marked by nights of around 21 °C and days of around 28 °C with moderate amounts of humidity. Further inland, due to altitudinal gradation, the nights are a few degrees cooler. During March 2008 Goa was lashed with heavy rain and strong winds. This was the first time in 29 years that Goa had seen rain during March.

Getting There

By Plane

Dabolim Airport is located near the village of Dabolim and Vasco da Gama. This is the only airport in the state and is a civilian and military airport. There are two civilian terminal buildings that handles a total of 30 to 40 domestic and international flights daily. Remember that the majority of flights take off and land between 1 pm and 6pm during the weekdays because of the needs of the military. This airport handled 2.6 million passengers in 2007.

There are domestic flights to almost every major town in India and international flights to Dubai, Frankfurt, Kuwait, London, Manchester, Oslo, Stockholm, Gothenburg, Colombo, Birmingham and Moscow. The majority of international flights are handled by Indian carriers although more international carriers are being allowed access and several charter companies operate flights from Europe.

By Train

The Konkan Railway, the main train line running through Goa, connects Goa with Mumbai to the north, and with Mangalore to the south. Its main train station in Goa is Madgaon station in Margao, from which there are several useful daily services to Mumbai. Note that services and prices change seasonally, and it’s a good idea to have a thorough look at the Konkan Railway website for the most up-to-date information.

You can also book Konkan Kanya Express (Goa - Mumbai or Mumbai - Goa) tickets online from the Konkan Railway website, subject to a long list of conditions: you can only book between two and seven days in advance of travel, only in three-tier sleeper AC class for a cost of Rs1500 per ticket, and with no date changes permitted.

All other train bookings are best made at Margao’s Madgaon station, at the train reservation office at Panaji’s Kadamba bus stand or at any travel agent selling train tickets (though you’ll probably pay a small commission for the convenience). Make sure you book as far in advance as possible for sleepers, since they fill up quickly.

Other smaller, useful Goan railway stations include Pernem for Arambol, Thivim for Mapusa and the northern beaches, Karmali (Old Goa) for Panaji and Canacona for Palolem.

By Bus

India has a comprehensive and extensive public bus system, but most state-run vehicles are decrepit and overcrowded. From neighbouring states you’ll find frequent bus services into Goa – it is just a matter of turning up at the bus station and checking timetables or jumping on the next available bus. There are also plenty of private bus companies running into Goa from Mumbai, Pune, Bengaluru (Bangalore), Mangalore and other interstate cities. These are more expensive, but faster and more comfortable, with reclining seats and options of AC or even ‘sleeper’ class. One of the most popular options for bus travel to and from Goa is Paulo Travels. Consult its website for the most up-to-date prices and route information. Buses for Mumbai depart from Panaji and Margao daily.

Getting Around

Motorcycle

Getting around Goa by scooter or motorcycle is probably the most popular form of transport, both for locals and tourists. If you plan to spend most of your time lying on the beach you may have little use for a motorcycle, but if you’ve the urge to explore even slightly far afield, you’ll soon find it’s a hassle without your own transport. The freedom, therefore, that a motorcycle affords is hard to beat.

Motorcycle Hire

An international driving permit is not technically mandatory, but it’s wise to bring one. The first thing a policeman will want to see if he stops you is your licence, and an international permit is incontrovertible. Permits are available from your home automobile association.

Hiring a motorcycle in Goa is easy. Hirers will probably find you, and are more often than not decent guys who are just looking to make a bit of cash on the side. Private bike owners are not technically allowed to rent out a machine. This means that if you are stopped by the police for any reason, your hirer would prefer that you say you have borrowed it from a ‘friend’. Laws on this sort of thing are almost universally ignored in North Goa where anything goes, but police can be more opportunistic in the south. It’s a good idea to keep registration papers in the bike – it gives the police one less argument against you, and if you don’t have a valid licence, or you’re not wearing a helmet on NH17 (the national highway), you’ll need all the help you can get.

If you leave the state, you may need to produce original documents for the vehicle you are driving or riding. If you want to go further afield from Goa, you need to hire from a licensed agency to stay within the law.

Outside of the high season you can get a scooter for as little as Rs100 per day. During high season (December to February) the standard rate is Rs250 to Rs300. If you can get an old Kinetic down to Rs130 or so, you’re doing very well. Expect to pay Rs400 for a 100cc bike and up to Rs600 for an Enfield. Obviously, the longer you hire a bike (and the older it is), the cheaper it becomes.

Make absolutely sure that you agree with the owner about the price. Clarify whether one day is 24 hours, and that you won’t be asked to pay extra for keeping it overnight. You may be asked to pay cash up front (which is fair, given that they’re handing over their motorbike), but get a written receipt of some sort to that effect. Also try to take down the phone number of the owner, or his mechanic, in case something goes wrong with the bike.

It makes sense to check the bike over before you hire it and make a note of any damage or broken parts, so that you’re not blamed for it later. Make sure brakes, lights and the allessential horn are working. You can manage without a petrol gauge but it’s nice when it works. Mirrors are useful, but many older rental bikes are missing them. Take a look at the condition of the tyres to make sure that there’s at least a skerrick of tread on them.

By Car

Self-drive car hire is not worth the trouble, especially since it’s more expensive than a chauffeur-driven car.

By Boat

One of the joys of travelling around Goa is joining locals on flat-bottomed passengervehicle ferries that cross the state’s many rivers. Ferries have been commuting people across waters for decades, but services are gradually being put out of business by massive bridge-building projects.

Eat

Goa offers a variety of foods from all over the world to try along with its local cuisine. Goa is well known for its lip smacking variety of seafood, which is savored by one and all. It can be spicy so inform the chef before if you want it a bit sobered down. Along with the traditional Goan food, you can find numerous fast food joints, serving western and Chinese food, at most of the tourist destinations, cities and towns in Goa. Bedsides the fast food joints, most of the restaurants offer fast food and Chinese dishes.

Goan food is a mixture of Portugal, continental and Indian flavors. This unique blend of cooking styles is what makes the Goan foods stand out. There is an endless variety of seafood to choose from which includes prawns, lobsters, shrimps, exotic fish species, crabs, clams and oysters. For vegetarians, there are a large variety of vegetarian foods to choose from. Rice and curry is a popular vegetarian dish among the locals and is known for its hot and spicy taste.

Goa also has a number of fast food corners to choose from. These fast food corners cater to sudden hunger pangs that crop up while roaming from one place to another and offer a variety of foods to choose from. You can easily spot fast food joints like Domino's, Barista, Caffe Coffe Day etc in major cities and towns of Goa. Food is incomplete without drinks and Goa offers a variety of drinks to choose from. The most popular and readily available drink is the "Feni" which is an alcoholic drink, like beer. One should take it in moderation as it tends to react very fast and can get you drunk in no time. Apart from that, one can get the best beer and the finest wines in Goa.

Most beaches have shacks that serve surprisingly delicious meals, specially sea-food and they'll usually consult you to see how you like your food. Don't miss the shack eating experience. You'll want to go back and do it again. Most fancy hotels and restaurants serve terrible foods, it is best to eat at local places, ask a taxi driver where these would be and don't let him take you to any fancy restaurants as they receive commission. For a taste of the local flavour with clean facilities but low prices go to Caji's Place, Colva.

Some of the options for getting good food include:

• Priyatu Mondal's Restaurant, Morgim. Voted among top beach shacks in the world by The Guardian. great French and Continental food and view, though poor service when owners are absent. very expensive edit
• After Seven Restaurant - reviewed favorably in Frommers, Rough Guides, Uppercrust - well known for steaks, seafood, pastas
• Montego Bay Goa (Morjim)- full fledged restaurant serving Continental, Indian, Seafood and the local Goan Cuisine
• Cavala, Baga - Beautiful authentic Goan food in a charming setting. Also great entertainment is often featured!
• Pentagon, Majorda - round the corner from Martin's Corner, just as good but not as pricey
• Stone House, Candolim - garden bar and rest - great cooking lovely atmosphere
• Caji's Place, Colva - Near to The Oceanique Resort, the best steaks in Goa, also known for its fresh and spectacular curries. English fish and chips night on thursday, plus normal menu. Large, new, circular bar where you can watch all the live English Premier football or just chill with an ice-cold beer. Meet great people (locals and tourists) and enjoy the laid back atmosphere.
• Tato's in Margao and Panjim for good Pau Bhaji.
• Posh, at Nerul, near the post-office, opened in November 2007 for brunch and dinner, a sister concern of After Seven Restaurant, Calangute, serves International cuisine, British Colonial and Goan Food

Drink

Feni/Fenny
One of the most famous and popular drinks that Goa is actually synonymous with is the Feni. Also known as the Fenny, this Goan drink can get a person drunk in no time. This Indian liquor is of two types - Cashew Feni and Coconut Feni. While coconut Feni is made by fermenting the fruit of the Cashew tree, coconut Feni is made from the juice of toddy plants. The Goan Fenny is usually considered to be superior compared to all other types of Fenny. The Feni drink of Goa is a must try if you are visiting Goa anytime.

Goa is compared to the city that ever sleeps. This is because of the kind of lifestyle that Goa has. The people of Goa have a variable thinking and above all the tourists that visit Goa are mainly here to have a good time. Going to Goa and not visiting the bars and the nightclubs in Goa would be indeed a waste. Nowadays there are a lot of bars and lounges that can actually help one drift away for sometime. More than the actual bars, the lounges are what people are interested in nowadays. A place where a person can sit comfortably and sip on his drink is what is necessary. Bars and Night Clubs include the following:

The number of nightclubs and bars in Goa are innumerable. According to the likes and dislikes one must choose the one that suits him Like, at some night clubs the music that is played is retro, like that of late seventies. And at the other clubs the music that is played will be the latest that is the pop hits. To choose a bar and nightclub in Goa wherein you can relax is necessary. Going to the Adega Camoens or the Club TiTos maybe a good idea. The club or the bar that you're heading for should suit your mood. Some may not like the trance that is played in some of the hotels and clubs. The Club Cabana and Paradisio Nightclub are open 365 days a year. Hence heading to such a place where you can find the ultimate fun and good music with the combination of food and drinks can be effective. The Party Zone Disco is another discotheque wherein one can find rave parties and trance trips happening. The party goer that the person is, making a choice to party at a place that is the most suitable for you is the best option.
The options include:

• Adega Camoens, Goa
• Club TITO'S, Goa
• Aqua Lounge, Goa
• Party Zone Disco, Goa
• Hill Top Club, Goa
• Paradisio Nightclub, Goa
• Club Cubana, Goa

Sleep