Istanbul
Travel Guide > Europe > Turkey > Istanbul
Introduction
The city which divides Asia and Europe is infused with culture, history and tradition.
Neighbourhoods
European side:
- Beyoğlu - Beyoğlu is the heart of Istanbul's nightlife. Situated across the Golden Horn from Sultanahmet, it is a great place to watch street performers, find excellent coffee and party.
- Sultanahmet - Sultanahmet is the historic heart of Istanbul, featuring many of the city's most famous attractions, including the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and more.
Asian side:
- Kadikoy - Kadikoy is the commercial centre of the Asian side suburbs.
Sights and Activities
Topkapi Palace
The TopKapi palace is a big landmark to visit. The articles on display are simply amazing and mind boggling. Most of the articles on display are off limits to taking pictures. If the sultans lived in such times they would have been the most ingenuous and crafty people to say the least and the fact that these have been preserved very well is testament to the Turks' ability to take care about their legacy. For more information about the Topkapi Palace this Guide is a very good start.
Bosporus
The area around the bosphorous is a treat, especially if you if book a cheap ferry ride from the local companies on the terminal. Once on the ferry, you can easily savour the different architecture of the Anatolian and the European side, highlighting the way in which the enmeshing of these two cultures underpins the nature of Istanbul. The bridge over the bosphorous is also a great landmark. There are many ferries that crisscross the river, the longest distance is the popular public ferry service that leaves from Eminonu and traverses 3 hours up the river, stopping at a number of small village stops along the way. This costs about 10 YTL return. This cheaper alternative is often confused with the touted tourist cruise up river, whilst a good service and with English commentary it is more informative, it is a lot more expensive.
Once you are finished with the ferry trip you can easily go around the area where there are lots of small clothing stores and electronic outlets as well as restaurants. The food tastes great and so do the Turkish desserts like baklawa. The Turks love their ice cream and you can easily observe the ubiquitous ice cream stalls. Kadikoy is the commercial centre of the Asian side suburbs. Whether you arrive by bus or ferry, you will disembark a short 5 minute walk from the centre of the action in Kadikoy. Both the main (Eminonu – Kadikoy) ferry terminal and the bus / minibus terminal are collocated adjacent to the main traffic intersection on Kadikoy.
Covered bazaar
For the unwary, the covered bazaar can be a dangerous place. Bag snatching, pickpockets, underground organized crime all thrive. For most though, the biggest risk is happily parting with well earned cash, believing you have a one of a kind, authentic, genuine original bargain. Only to turn the next corner, or take the next alleyway, and see someone else buying the same thing – cheaper. That’s all part of the appeal though, after all, you are in Istanbul, former high court of the Ottoman Empire, once a Roman stronghold over Africa – it should be a wild place, full of mystery and a little hint of danger – that is what makes a visit to the Covered Bazaar such an exciting thing to do.
The best way to get there is to walk – from the Eminonu ferry terminal, follow the trams uphill, past Haghia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. Then you should pause for a coffee or a bite to eat at one of the many restaurants catering for the foreign palate, on the right side of the tram line. Then up past the Sultans tomb you will see a brown sign to the Covered Bazaar. The final approach to the Covered Bazaar is understated and winds through some backstreets giving many a feeling of possibly being in the wrong place.
Then you will see it, above the gate an old and eroded sign on the outside of the unrestored wall, announcing your arrival… the rest is up to you. For more information you can visit this guide.
Asian side
Most visitors to Istanbul spend little if any time on the Asian side. This is a real shame because Kadikoy and the other suburbs along the Bosphorous have a lot to offer. Istanbul is quite literally where Europe and Asia meet. The Asian side reflects it name and stands in its own right as worthy of a visit.
Read more about Kadikoy.
Events and Festivals
It seems that every weekend there is a new festival of some kind occurring in Istanbul. International film festivals, rock and pop festivals, tulip festivals and festivals for the sake of festivals happen throughout the year. It can be difficult to find the information about the events in Istanbul, but this site is a great start - http://www.istanbulguide.net/istguide/anglais/vivre/festivals.htm
Otherwise the local copy of TIMEOUT http://www.timeout.com/travel/istanbul magazine is also a good reference.
Weather
Getting There
In Taksim, Sultanahmet and Kadikoy you will find buses options for the whole country, ferries along the Bosphorous and out to the Princes Islands. As you leave the ferry terminal, Kadikoy appears to the front and left of you. Along the coast to the left you will find the other ferry terminals and over the busy road to the left you will find a myriad of small tourist offices providing transfers and bus services to most other cities in Turkey. The main bus terminal on the left of the Ferry Terminal, also provides a central location for minubuses and city buses to most parts of the city, including the Asian side airport. You’ll also notice another significant difference - a lot less tourists.
By Plane
There are two International airports servicing Istanbul. They are both serviced by Taxi and Public Transport. Most hotels will provide a transfer service for approx 20 Euro - this is expensive when compared to public transport but for two people it is similar to the taxi fare. Consider the hotel transfer if you arrive late at night.
The Ataturk International Airport (IST) is located on the European side 25 kms NW of SulanAhmet. Serviced by public transport (with a small walk) it is relatively easy to find.If you are short of time or have a lot of luggage however - tai or transfer is your best option. Most of the main airlines for international destinations arrive and depart from Atatuek International.
The smaller Asian side airport - Sabiha Gokcen International (SAW) - is further out of town. Some 50 km or so from SultanAhmet (on the Asian side) this is where many of the domestic airlines and cheaper international airlines arrive and depart.
By Train
The Istanbul Sikerci Train Station on the European side was once the end of the line for the Orient Express. These days it is a little rundown and displays little of its former glory. It is in the heart of Eminonu in SultanAhmet on the European side. This is the arrival and departure point for trains to and from the rest of Europe.
For destinations south and east of Turkey such as Iran, Syria and the Asian majority of Turkey, you need the Haydarpasa train station - on the Asian side (close to Kadikoy).
By Car
By Bus
The main Istanbul bus station is called Istanbul Otogari and is located about 10km north of SultanAhmet. Services to all of Europe can be organised at the Otogari. The station is serviced by public transport by both Metro and LRT (light rail) and bus from Sultanahmet.
On the Asian side, a much smaller bus station is located at Harem - close to Haydarpasa train station. Tickets to most of Anatolia - Asian Turkey can be arranged here.
Cheap Inter city bus deals are organised through the many travel agencies – the best deals can be found around the Sultanahmet or Kadikoy areas. Shop around for the best deal and do your research to avoid overpaying.
By Boat
Getting Around
By Car
By Bus
For destinations within Istanbul, IETT buses service most of the city and all of the areas frequented by tourists. Intra city transit generally cost less than 3 YTL. In Taksim square, Eminonu and Kadikoy buses leave frequently. Routes are described on the shelters next to the halts and advertised on the destination rollers on the front and side of the buses. Some drivers on common routes speak some English.
The blue Minibus routes are generally fixed, different colours depict different routes. Though initially very confusing, the minibus system is a godsend for the thrifty traveller. Provided you understand the general direction of your destination you can flag down a minibus, pay the fare (approx 1.50 YTL) and you will be on your way. Frequently overcrowded and always a little unpredictable, the minibus ride is a typical (sometimes hair raising) Istanbul experience not to be missed.
By Dolmus
The yellow mini vans, smaller than a minibus, are also a convenient, but less expensive methos of quickly getting around. The destinations are advertised in the front window and will generally wait until they are full to depart. The fares are less thah Taxi but more than Minubus – generally it will cost about 5 YTL to cross the river.
By Taxi
As in many cities, Taxi rides can be expensive and, unless you are in a group, or on business, not an ideal way to travel. They are however, the most convenient and direct path to your destination – most of the time. There are stories of the old taxi scam known the world over being played out in Istanbul, where a taxi driver takes a ride around the same block 3 or 4 times and passes the full fare on to the customer.
By Tram
Trams service a variety of routes around the city. There is currently a link between Besiktas on the European side, and Sultanahmet in the heart of the Golden Horn. There is also a route that navigates the length of Istiklal Caddesi in Taksim. In Kadikoy there is a circular route that provides a welcome diversion to the constant pedestrian traffic and is a good way of seeing much of the Moda and Kadikoy suburb.
By Ferry
A ferry to Eminonu (Sultanahmet) or Karakoy (Taksim) will cost 1 YTL 30 Korush. Great views of the city, Maidens Tower, Galata Tower and Sultanahmet. A trip over the river provides magnificent views (especially by night) of the city. Be aware that the lasdt ferry from Europe to Asia and vice versa leaves at 830 pm. After that time, you are resticted to the longer road trip over the bridge.
On Foot
By Bike
Eat
Most Istanbul restaurants offer a high standard of food, as anything less wouldn't satisfy the locals. A good opportunity to watch local performances and belly dancing while eating some traditional Turkish dishes is possible at Sultana's Dinner and 1001 Nights Show in Elmadag, Taksim, which is central Istanbul.
Sultanahmet Koftecisi is a famous restaurant that makes Turkish meatballs, köfte, and has been around for nearly a century. It's located in Sultanahmet.
Drink
Sleep
Budget
A good idea is to stay over in the Sultanahmet area, since this is the heart of where most backpackers stay. It can also be classified as the centre of the city as most of the monuments in Istanbul are within walking distance or easily accessible through the transport network.
In summer, many hostels fill up and offer rooftop beds with no security and limited services (but the best views of the city) for as little as 5 USD a night.
Mid-Range
Upscale
Work
Visa requirements change regularly so you should check out the current situation from your country foreign office.
There are no shortages of language schools willing to employ native English speakers as teachers. While many will request qualification in TEFL, TESOL or other ESL courses, most will also hire on the spot. Pay is relatively good and, for the shrewd negotiator, there are some good deals to be had. Be wary of contracts offering a deal too good to refuse, they often come with a sting in the tail. Common ESL sites online can provide points of contact and advertisements / job offers.
Many ex pats from UK, Canada, USA and Australia have moved to Istanbul to teach English but have ended up managing bars and restaurants.
Learn
Keep Connected
Internet
Internet cafés are everywhere and cost approx 1 Euro per hour. Wireless hot spots are becoming more common and many Western-style coffee shops now provide this free service.
Phone
Most kiosk booths around town have phone cards available in multiples of 20 or 50 Kontors. They are surprisingly good value for local and international calls.
Most mobile phones will work on international roaming but only for a limited period. The Turkish telecommunications provider (Turkcell) requires registration of the IMEI number of the mobile handset. This is done in person with photographic ID at a Turkcell office. Failure to do so will result in the phone only working for a period of about 2 - 3 weeks. Whilst this does not damage the phone handset, it does cause inconvenience. As this process costs time and money it is often easier to purchase a second-hand Turkish registered handset from one of the many telephone sales shops in town.
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