Istanbul

Introduction

Istanbul

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Istanbul, the city which divides Asia and Europe, is the only city in the world which is situated on two continents. This city of (officially) 13 million inhabitants - the largest city in Turkey - celebrates a unique culture which fuses Eastern and Western influences and a history stretching back as far as 5500 BC. It's a city which can easily compete with the most beautiful cities in Europe or even the world and walking around its historic streets and along mosques and bridges, you will soon see why. Be sure to spend at least 3 or 4 days here, as there is a lot to explore, especially on the European side, though don't forget to pay a visit to the lesser known Asian side.

Neighbourhoods

European side

• Beyoğlu is the heart of Istanbul's nightlife. Situated across the Golden Horn from Sultanahmet, it is a great place to watch street performers, find excellent coffee and party.
• Sultanahmet is the historic heart of Istanbul, featuring many of the city's most famous attractions, including the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and more.
• Ortakoy is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful parts of Istanbul, hosting the Ortakoy mosque right under Bosphorus bridge.

Asian side

• Kadikoy is the commercial centre of the Asian side suburbs.

Sights and Activities

Asian side

Most visitors to Istanbul spend little if any time on the Asian side. This is a real shame because Kadikoy and the other suburbs along the Bosphorous have a lot to offer. Istanbul is quite literally where Europe and Asia meet. The Asian side reflects its name and stands in its own right as worthy of a visit.

Aya Sofia

Hajia Sofia

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The Hagia Sophia or Aya Sofia is a former mosque, and former church in the old European part of Istanbul. It was the leading church for the Eastern Orthodox church for over 900 years, until the sack of Constantinople in 1453, after which it was converted into a mosque. It remained a mosque for almost 500 years, as in 1935 it was converted into a museum by orders from the first president of Turkey: Atatürk. The builing has suffered a great bit of damage during the centuries (especially the dome), because of earthquakes and fires, but has always been rebuild soon after. A large numbers of the christian mosaics became visible in the 1930's, during restaurations.

Bosphorus

The area around the Bosphorus is a treat, especially if you book a cheap ferry ride from the local companies on the terminal. Once on the ferry, you can easily savour the different architecture of the Anatolian and the European side, highlighting the way in which the blend of these two cultures underpins the nature of Istanbul. The bridge over the bosphorus is also a great landmark.

There are many ferries that crisscross the strait, the longest distance is the popular public ferry service that leaves from Eminonu and traverses up the strait for 1 hours and 30 minutes to reach Anadolu Kavagi, stopping at a number of small village stops along the way. The same ferry returns back to Eminonu after a halt of 3 hours. This costs 13 YTL for a single trip and 20 YTL for round trip. Many of the tourists get down at Sariyer (70 minutes from Eminonu), have a seafood lunch at one of the restaurants and then proceed by bus/minibus for a 30 minute ride to the Black Sea resort of Kilyos. Check the official Istanbul Ferry website for more information on ferry routes, schedules and fare. This cheaper alternative is often confused with the touted tourist cruise up the strait, whilst a good service and with English commentary it is more informative, it is a lot more expensive.

Once you are finished with the ferry trip you can easily go around the area where there are lots of small clothing stores and electronic outlets as well as restaurants. The food tastes great and so do the Turkish desserts like baklawa. The Turkish people love their ice cream and you can easily observe the ubiquitous ice cream stalls. Kadikoy is the commercial centre of the Asian side suburbs. Whether you arrive by bus or ferry, you will disembark a short 5 minute walk from the centre of the action in Kadikoy. Both the main (Eminonu – Kadikoy) ferry terminal and the bus / minibus terminal are collocated adjacent to the main traffic intersection on Kadikoy.

Galata Bridge

Istanbul 2007 - Galata Bridge

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The Galata Bridge in the European part of Istanbul spans the Golden Horn at the entrance of the waterway, just west of the famous Bosphorus. The current bridge is already the 5th bridge at this location. There had been plans since the early 16th century, but the first one opened only in 1845. The current 490-metre-long Bascule type bridge opened in 1994. Until 1930, there was a toll fee to cross the bridge. The longest span of the bridge is 80 metres and it's 42 metres wide. There are walkways, roads and recently even a tramway across the bridge, making the bridge one of just a few moveable bridges in the world with electrified rail.

Kilyos

Kilyos is a seaside resort located in the north coast and Sariyer district of Istanbul. Kilyos is well-known for its beautiful and famous beaches, nice hotels, restaurants and summer activities. In Kilyos you may have a nice weekend activity such as having a nice dinner in its seaside restaurants, having an excellent relaxing holiday in its great hotels or having silent and calm moments with the company of endless seas and nature. Kilyos is surrounded by the Black Sea from north region and the forests from the south region. It is ideal for weekend activities for every season. Especially in summer population increases. With its specialties, Kilyos became one of the most important vacation and tourism towns in Istanbul. Kilyos is 11 kilometres to Sariyer, 32 kilometres to Taksim and 50 kilometres to Istanbul Ataturk Airport.

Polonezkoy - Adampol

Everybody knows Istanbul, its beauty and history. But not many people know about the old Polish village located just inside the city with its heavenly nature, culture and history. It is time to discover Polonezkoy, where still Polish people live.
It was founded by Adam Czartoryski in 1842. Polonezkoy-Adampol, within Istanbul is a cultural and historical event that has never before been seen in the world. Lets check out the brief history of the village. The village is the one and only place in Istanbul that is very close to the city centre and it makes the town easy for arrival. The village is very popular especially for the weekend activities and attractions. Polonezkoy's Club Hotels, Pensions and Restaurants are serving great opportunities for their guests. There are many hotels, pensions, restaurants and garden barbecue places within Polonezkoy. "House of the Memory of Zofia Ryży" where the village's history and photographs are exhibited; "Częstochowa's Church" which was built during the years 1900-1914; "Polish Cemetery"; " Polonezkoy Culture House"; "Open air exhibition center of wooden carving art"; "Apiculture Museum and Souvenir Shops"; "BMX Bicycle Track" and "5 kilometre walking and jogging track" are the places of interest.

Other sights and activities

• Grand Bazaar or Covered Bazaar (Kapali Charshi) is one of the biggest and the oldest covered bazaars in the world with more than 6,000 shops. The shops sell carpets, jewelery, spices, pottery, souvenirs and many other things.
• Blue Mosque, or Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is the national mosque of Turkey and a popular tourist attraction. It was completed in 1616 during the reign of Sultan Ahmed 1.
• Basilica Cistern is the largest cistern in Istanbul. It was built in the 6th century, during the Byzantine era. It is located next to Hagia Sophia.
• Topkapi Palace was the palace of the Ottoman Sultans between 1465 and 1853. Today, it is one of Istanbul's major landmarks.
• Hamam Bath/Turkish Bath - For €30-50 an excellent way to relax after enjoying the wonder of Istanbul is a Turkish bath. Laying on a warm marble round table, you are washed with water and can be scrubbed, "peeled" (scrubbing away the dead skin) and then covered in soapy foam that is greater in volume then your own body. You then have the soap massaged into your skin and your muscles and limbs flexed and rubbed. You can then be dried off and wrapped in towels where you can be guided to a deck chair and given refreshing Turkish apple tea.
• Turkish shave - for 5 YTL you can have a straight razor shave in which you are doused in shaving foam from a brush, shaved then had a flaming rod touch your skin follicle lightly, followed by an electric razor for tricky areas. After applying aftershave you are then given a forehead, temple and cheek massage. You are given any luggage you came in with as your leave and you stagger out the day in a euphoric bliss!

Events and Festivals

It seems that every weekend there is a new festival of some kind occurring in Istanbul. International film festivals, rock and pop festivals, tulip festivals and festivals for the sake of festivals happen throughout the year. It can be difficult to find the information about the events in Istanbul, but this Istanbul Guide is a great start.

Otherwise the local copy of TIMEOUT magazine is also a good reference.

Weather

Istanbul has a temperate climate with maritime influences. Summer is hot and humid averaging around 28 °C during the day and around 18 °C at night, but is mostly below 30 °C. Winter is cold and wet averaging 2 °C at night and 8 °C during the day, and although rarely below freezing during the day is also unpleasant like the summer. The humidity of the city is constantly high which makes the air feel much harsher than the actual temperatures, particularly during summer and winter, even though the temperatures during both seasons are rarely extreme. That is why cold waves (below 0 °C during the day) during winter and heat waves (above 32 °C during the day) during summer are not common; while cold spells (below 15 °C during the day) during summer and warm spells (above 15 °C during the day) during winter are even rarer and therefore exceptional.

Snowfall, which occurs almost annually, is common between the months of December and March, with an annual total snow cover of 19 days, but average winter snowfall often varies considerably from year to year, and snow cover usually remains only for a few days after each snowfall, even if it snows a lot. The second half of May to the first half of June and the second half of September to the first half October are very pleasant and therefore the best times to visit: as it is not cold and nor hot, and still sunny, though the nights can be chilly and rainfall is common.

For visitors an umbrella is essential during spring, autumn and winter, and during the summer to avoid the sun and occasionally the rain.
Light clothing is recommended during summer and a light jacket and/or light sweater if the summer evenings do become chilly, warm clothing is essential during winter and a mixture of the two during spring and autumn. Also take note that due to its huge size, topography and maritime influences, Istanbul exhibits a multitude of distinct microclimates. That is why different parts of Istanbul can experience different weather conditions at the same time. For example, at the same moment, it can be heavily raining in Sarıyer in the north, mildly raining in Levent (northern terminus of metro line), while Taksim, the southern terminus of metro line, is having a perfectly sunny day.

Getting There

By Plane

There are two international airports serving Istanbul. They are both served by taxi and public transport. Most hotels will provide a transfer service for approximately €20. This is expensive when compared to public transport but for two people it is similar to the taxi fare. Consider the hotel transfer if you arrive late at night or are with more people.

The Atatürk International Airport (IST) is located on the European side of Istanbul, 25 kilometres northwest of Sultanahmet. It is one of the busier airports in Europe and in the top 25 regarding international passengers. Most of the main airlines for international destinations arrive and depart from Ataturk International.

To/from the airport:

• Rail: Light rail service exists between Aksaray and Atatürk International Airport. The line goes through some major parts of the European side of the city; including the intercity bus terminal. The LRT takes the passengers to Aksaray in 30–35 minutes. The approximate cost is €0.75 one-way. It is very easy to reach the Sultanahmet area (centre of historic Istanbul) by public transport (combination of Metro and Tram) and it should not cost you more than 3 YTL. Exit the airport and follow the metro signs to the Havalimai (Airport) metro station. Buy the tokens (tickets) and board a train going towards Aksaray. Get out at Zeytinburnu, the 6th stop and look for the tram platform on the opposite side. Board the tram going towards Eminonu and/or Kabatas and get down at Sultanahmet (16th stop) or any other stop as per your requirement. The approximate time taken for both the legs of the journey is 1 hour.
• Airport Shuttle: The shuttle services are operated by Havas, which is one of the major ground handling companies within Turkey. The busses run half-hourly to Bakırköy, Yenikapı, Aksaray, Taksim Square, hourly to Kozyatağı (on the Anatolian side), two-hourly to Etiler-Akmerkez. Also, there is a fast ferry terminal in Bakırköy which connects the terminal to Bostancı and Kadıköy. Havaş buses run between the airport and the fast ferry terminal according to the departures and arrivals of the ferries.
• Bus: Municipality buses also run to Taksim, Etiler and Kozyatağı. This is a slower but much cheaper alternative than Havaş.[7]
• Car: The airport is accessible through the coastal road, D-100 international road and TEM (Trans-European Motorway). If you are short of time or have a lot of luggage, taxi or transfer is your best option.

The smaller Asian side airport, Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW), is further out of town. Some 50 kilometres or so from Sultanahmet (on the European side) this is where many of the domestic airlines and budget airlines arrive and depart.

Both of the airports have shuttles, Havas, to Taksim, Kadikoy, and Levent, which cost 10 YTL for a single journey. However Sabiha Gokcen has a local bus E-10) which gets you to Kadikoy for YTL 2.60. A 30-minute ferry ride will then get you to the European side: Eminonu. Look for a tram and take the one going left for YTL 1.40 2 stops to Sultanahmet (display with state the stop you will be at) to get your (cheap) accommodation if this is where you are headed. Street name signs are not common in Istanbul.

By Train

The Istanbul Sirkeci Train Station on the European side was once the end of the line for the Orient Express. These days it is a little rundown and displays little of its former glory. It is in the heart of Eminonu in Sultanahmet on the European side. This is the arrival and departure point for trains to and from the rest of Europe.

For destinations south and east of Turkey such as Iran, Syria and the Asian majority of Turkey, you need the Haydarpasa train station on the Asian side (close to Kadikoy).

By Car

It's not advised to drive into Istanbul if you are not used to the heavy traffic and sometimes hazardous driving conditions by locals.

By Bus

The main Istanbul bus station is called Istanbul Otogari and is located about 10 kilometres north of Sultanahmet. Services to all of Europe can be organised at the Otogar. The station is serviced by public transport by both Metro and LRT (light rail) and bus from Sultanahmet.

On the Asian side, a much smaller bus station is located at Harem, close to Haydarpasa train station. Tickets to most of Anatolia and other places in Asian Turkey can be arranged here.

Cheap Inter city bus deals are organised through the many travel agencies. The best deals can be found around the Sultanahmet or Kadikoy areas. Shop around for the best deal and do your research to avoid overpaying.

By Boat

UKR Ferry has services between Istanbul and Odessa in the Ukraine.

In Taksim, Sultanahmet and Kadikoy you will find many bus options for the whole country, and ferries along the Bosphorus and out to the Princes Islands. As you leave the ferry terminal, Kadikoy appears to the front and left of you. Along the coast to the left you will find the other ferry terminals and over the busy road to the left you will find a myriad of small tourist offices providing transfers and bus services to most other cities in Turkey. The main bus terminal on the left of the ferry terminal, also provides a central location for minibuses and city buses to most parts of the city, including the airport on the Asian side. You’ll also notice another significant difference: a lot less tourists.

Getting Around

By Car

Although not recommended, Istanbul can be negotiated by car. Be prepared for sometimes chaotic situations, drivers that really don't care and busy traffic and difficult parking.

By Bus

For destinations within Istanbul, IETT buses service most of the city and all of the areas frequented by tourists. Intra city transit generally cost less than 3 YTL. In Taksim square, Eminonu and Kadikoy buses leave frequently. Routes are described on the shelters next to the halts and advertised on the destination rollers on the front and side of the buses. Some drivers on common routes speak some English.

The blue minibus routes are generally fixed, different colours depict different routes. Though initially very confusing, the minibus system is a godsend for the thrifty traveller. Provided you understand the general direction of your destination you can flag down a minibus, pay the fare (approx 1.50 YTL) and you will be on your way. Frequently overcrowded and always a little unpredictable, the minibus ride is a typical (sometimes hair raising) Istanbul experience not to be missed.

By Dolmuş

Dolmuş (Dolmush), the yellow mini vans, smaller than a minibus, are also a convenient, but expensive methods of quickly getting around. The destinations are advertised in the front window and will generally wait until they are full to depart. The fares are less than taxi but more than minibus – generally it will cost about 5 YTL to cross the river.

By Taxi

As in many cities, taxi rides can be expensive and, unless you are in a group, or on business, not an ideal way to travel. They are however, the most convenient and direct path to your destination – most of the time. There are stories of the old taxi scam known the world over being played out in Istanbul, where a taxi driver takes a ride around the same block 3 or 4 times and passes the full fare on to the customer.

The Kadikoy Tram

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By Tram

Trams service a variety of routes around the city. There is currently a link between Besiktas on the European side, and Sultanahmet in the heart of the Golden Horn. There is also a route that navigates the length of Istiklal Caddesi in Taksim. In Kadikoy there is a circular route that provides a welcome diversion to the constant pedestrian traffic and is a good way of seeing much of the Moda and Kadikoy suburb.

By Ferry

A ferry to Eminonu (Sultanahmet) or Karakoy (Taksim) will cost 1.3 YTL. Great views of the city, Maidens Tower, Galata Tower and Sultanahmet. A trip over the river provides magnificent views (especially by night) of the city. Be aware that the last ferry from Europe to Asia and vice versa leaves at 8:30pm. After that time, you are restricted to the longer road trip over the bridge. Check the Istanbul Ferry website for more information about routes, schedules and prices.

On Foot

A great way to see the city and also window shop. Public transportation is a mere pace away and cheap enough should your feet not last days pounding the pavements (a Turkish massage may help).

By Bike

Unfortunately bikes are not very popular in Istanbul. The traffic is crazy! The drivers are not even friendly to other drives thus bikers are not even part of the question.

Eat

Most Istanbul restaurants offer a high standard of food, as anything less wouldn't satisfy the locals. A good opportunity to watch local performances and belly dancing while eating some traditional Turkish dishes is possible at Sultana's Dinner and 1001 Nights Show in Elmadag, Taksim, which is central Istanbul.

Sultanahmet Koftecisi is a famous restaurant that makes Turkish meatballs, köfte, and has been around for nearly a century. It's located in Sultanahmet.

Drink

• Turkish Apple Tea

Sleep

Budget

A good idea is to stay over in the Sultanahmet area, since this is the heart of where most backpackers stay. It can also be classified as the centre of the city as most of the monuments in Istanbul are within walking distance or easily accessible through the transport network.

In summer, many hostels fill up and offer rooftop beds with no security and limited services (but the best views of the city) for as little as 5 USD a night.

Mid-Range

Upscale

Work

Visa requirements change regularly so you should check out the current situation from your country foreign office.

There are no shortages of language schools willing to employ native English speakers as teachers. While many will request qualification in TEFL, TESOL or other ESL courses, most will also hire on the spot. Pay is relatively good and, for the shrewd negotiator, there are some good deals to be had. Be wary of contracts offering a deal too good to refuse, they often come with a sting in the tail. Common ESL sites online can provide points of contact and advertisements / job offers.

Many ex pats from UK, Canada, USA and Australia have moved to Istanbul to teach English but have ended up managing bars and restaurants.

Learn

Istanbul University - next to the Grand Bazaar. Handy as next to the Book Bazaar for cheap text books. Many Turkish students study there.

LGBTT Culture of Istanbul

Undoubtedly Istanbul is the center of Turkish LGBTT (Lesbian and Gay) life. Like many other cities in the world, Istanbul may not be all that comfortable for LGBTT travelers but it definitely has a big LGBTT community and culture behind the scenes. Everyday more LGBTT people are becoming outspoken. One has to know where to go in order to explore such culture and has to be careful when meeting new people in this culture. Taksim is considered to be the center of LGBTT life in Istanbul, as well the center of night life in general. There is a list of places friendly to the LGBTT community.

Keep Connected

Internet

Internet cafés are everywhere and cost approx 1 Euro per hour. Wireless hot spots are becoming more common and many Western-style coffee shops now provide this free service.

Phone

See also: International Telephone Calls

Most kiosk booths around town have phone cards available in multiples of 20 or 50 Kontors. They are surprisingly good value for local and international calls.

Most mobile phones will work on international roaming but only for a limited period. The Turkish telecommunications provider (Turkcell) requires registration of the IMEI number of the mobile handset. This is done in person with photographic ID at a Turkcell office. Failure to do so will result in the phone only working for a period of about 2 - 3 weeks. Whilst this does not damage the phone handset, it does cause inconvenience. As this process costs time and money it is often easier to purchase a second-hand Turkish registered handset from one of the many telephone sales shops in town.

Post

PTT is the national post service. Services are generally moderately fast but quite reliable. Sending a standard letter or postcard costs €0.65 within Turkey and €0.80 (letters) or €0.85 (postcards) internationally. There is an extended price list on the PTT website. For sending packages one might also use international companies such as DHL and UPS and local companies such as Yurtici Kargo. Post offices bear the distinctive yellow PTT sign and are generally open between 9:00am to 12:00 noon and 1:30pm to 5:00pm from Monday to Friday.