Travel Guide > Asia > Japan
Japan (日本) is a small country of magnificent proportions. In its long history it has been the home to one of the Far East's most powerful civilizations, has been invaded by Mongols, has itself invaded mainland Asia and has gained the sad title of being the detonation ground for the only two nuclear bombs dropped during warfare. Modern Japan struggles with an interesting tension between highly sophisticated Westernization and traditional values. In Tokyo, elements of the past are almost but not entirely submerged by the city's striking modernity. Kyoto presents traditional architecture more successfully, owing to its role as Japan's cultural centre.
A problem long posed to the Japanese has been their islands' relative lack of habitable land. Today, this means that the nation's inhabited areas are highly populous and show a general disregard for nature's green goodness. On the flipside, it also means that those areas which are uninhabitable retain an awe-inspiring natural beauty.
The first signs of people living in the Japanese Islands appeared with stone age cultures around 30,000 BC. This continued for about six thousand years when the Jōmon period began, a mesolithic to neolithic semi sedentary-hunter-gather culture. Many scholars believe that the Jōmon are the ancestors of the current day Ainu, a minority group who live on the northern island of Hokkaido. In the third century BC the Yayoi period began, which was a major shift in the culture.
During the Yayoi wet-rice farming, iron and bronze making and more advance pottery appeared in Japan. Many believed these major developments were brought over by migrants and settlers from China and Korea. The result of these major developments was Japan shifts to a predominantly agricultural society with an emphasis on rice.
When Buddhism was first introduced to japan from Korea there was limited resistance. Although by the Askuka period (538 AD to 710) it gained general acceptance. Most of the Buddhist art was primarily influenced by China and the ruling class gave Buddhism their full approval. The blending of Shinto and Buddhism was in full swing.
The Nara Period (710 AD to 794) was when the first strong central Japanese state emerged. There imperial court was the modern day city of Nara. Although not the first capital it was the first centralized states and the government borrowed heavily from Chinese administrative practices. in 784 the Emperor Kammu relocated the capital to present day Kyoto where it was stay for more then a thousand years.
During the Heian period (794 to 1185) is when a distinctly Japanese culture started to appear. Heavy borrowing from China was still happening although a unique Japanese culture started to split off. This was mainly done in creating unique art, poetry and literature. Lady Muraskaki's The tale of the Genji, which is considered one of the most important pieces of Japanese literature was written during this period.
The main feature of Japan's feudal period is the emergence of a ruling class of warriors called samurai. The samurai were a warrior class that were tied to specific house and went under intense training. If the leader of the house, who himself was an ex-samurai, was killed by a different house the samurai had two options. The first was to kill himself or two bring great shame to himself and family by running away and becoming a ronin or a houseless samurai. Ronin became hired guns at best and bandits at worst, roaming the country side looking for work.
The samurai slowly came to power over the period of several hundred years as the central government took less and less interest in the military. The government would employ the different houses at first, then the different samurai houses learned to work together to take control of the government. The samurai class came to full power during the Kamakura period (1185 to 1333). During this time Zen Buddhism was introduced to Japan from China, which was very popular among the samurai. Also the Kamakura shogunate was able to repel two Mongolian invasions one in 1274 and the other in 1281, aided by a storm which the japanese call the kamikaze or Divine Wind.
After the Kamakura shogunate fell several other powers rose and fell quickly, which eventually lead to a century long civil war in 1467. During the 16th century traders and Jesuit missionaries, primarily from Portugal, starting to make contact with Japan. Oda Nobunaga conquered a large area of Japan using European technology and firearms almost unifying the nation when he was assassinated in 1582. Toyotomi Hideyoshi succeeded in unifying Japan in 1590 and tried to invade Korea but both invasions failed because Ming Chinese and Korean forces were too great, he withdrew his army in 1598.
In 1639 the Tokugawa Shogunate came to power in present day Tokyo. After unifying Japan again they began a period of isolation known as sakoku or closed country. This closed period lasted for two and half centuries. There was limited contact with the west in the Dutch enclave in present day Nagasaki. On March 31, 1854 this all changed when Commodore Matthew Perry and his coal powered ships steamed into Tokyo and forced open Japan with the Convention of Kanagawa.
After Commodore Perry arrived in Japan some of the leaders of Japan knew they had to change if they wanted to remain in power. Many of the lesser samurai instilled a movement to move power back to the emperor again. Emperor Meiji was young and easy to influence. Many samurai resisted many of the new laws, which included removing the special status of the samurai. They organized a rebellion that led to the Bosin war (1868 to 1869). The samurai trying to fight with traditional weapons and tactics were slaughtered by the conscripted army of peasants using modern fire arms and cannons.
The Meiji Restoration led to a massive westernization of Japan and resulting in a very quick industrialization process. Japan went from a feudal farming society to an industrial power house with a modern army in under 20 years. Japan's military might was proved to the world in the Russo-Japanese War (1904 to 1905). When the Japanese army overwhelm the Russian army. Also during this time the Japanese annexed the Korean peninsula and Taiwan from China.
Militarization and expansionism where the made motives behind Imperial Japan in the first half of the 20th century. In 1931 Japan occupied Manchuria which resulted in Japan resigning from the League of Nations two years later. In 1936, Japan signed the Anti-Comintern Pact with Nazi Germany and eventually joined the other Axis powers in 1941.
In 1937 Japan continued its invasion of China by plunging into other parts of the country. The United States placed an oil embargo on Japan because of its invasion of China. On December 7, 1941 the Japanese bombed the United States naval base in Pearl Harbor, which brought the United States into the war. After a countless long and blood battles the war ended with the United States dropping two atomic bombs, one on Hiroshima and the other on Nagasaki. Along with the Soviet Union joining the war against Japan, the Imperial government was forced to sign an unconditional surrender on August 15, 1945.
Japan was in ruins after the war physically, culturally and emotionally. Every single city had been bombed into dust and no one knew what to believe in. The occupying powers forced the Japanese to adopt a pacifist constitution in 1947 which has never been changed. This pushed forward a modern democracy. The United States fearing the spread of communism quickly rebuilt the country and instilled new leaders. Many of the famous companies that the world knows today were the old war companies that the occupying powers helped rebuild after the war.
The Allied occupation of Japan ended in 1952 with the signing of the Treaty of San Francisco. As part of the treaty the United States is pledged to protect Japan against any military attack. In 1956 Japan reentered the world scene again with gaining membership to the United Nations. With hard work, government support and cleverness the Japanese people rebuilt there nation at a stunning speed and once again becoming a world power. This time with economic power, not with the barrel of a gun. The country experienced annual growth averaging around 10% for four decades eventually becoming the second largest economy in the world.
In the mid 1990s Japan suffered from a major recession. In recent years the economy has been slowly growing again. This being partly fueled by linking their economy with China's soaring growth. With growing concerns over Japan's aging population many people wonder what is in the future for Japan.
Japan is made up of 4 main islands; Honshū, Hokkaidō, Shikoku and Kyūshū and several thousand smaller ones stretching down to Taiwan. Up to 80% of Japan's land is forested, mountainous and unsuitable for residential, agricultural or industrial use. This has led to a high population density in the habitable areas.
Japan is located on the so called Pacific Ring of Fire, at the juncture of three tectonic plates. This means Japan frequently experiences tremors and occasionally volcanic activity and destructive earthquakes. Recent major quakes include the 2004 Chūetsu earthquake and the Kobe Earthquake of 1995.
Japan has 47 prefectures (todōfuken). These prefectures are commonly grouped into the following eight regions, listed from north to south.
Main article: Sumo
The two large men face each other, slapping themselves to get the blood flowing in preparation for the fight about to take place. One of the men squats down and puts his fists against the ground. The other man follows suit, and as soon all four fists are on the ground, the two men spring back up and lunge at each other. They grunt and groan as they grapple with each other, struggling to either push the other man out of the ring or throw him to the ground. There are six grand sumo tournaments (basho) throughout the year in Japan.
The onsen, or hotspring bath can be found at most hotels in the central part of the country where mountain hot springs provide a natural version. One enters the onsen, gets naked and then squats on a stool. You soap up and rinse off using a bucket of water and a washcloth; now that you're clean, you enter the bath itself, which is full of really hot water. It's a relaxing and liberating experience, and apparently one of the few places in Japanese society where you are free of rules. Most hot springs are seperated by sex, with men and women having their own seperate hot spring, but some are co-ed. As well, some onsen do not permit persons with tattoo to enter.
Sento, or public bath is available at many places in the city. Most hotels or ryokan provides a sento for their guests. A few hostels or inns do not provide a shower nor a bath room and suggest that their guests take a bath at the nearby sento. It seems that local people go to the sento for a relaxing experience. The procedure is the same as in onsen, where you get naked and cleanse your body before entering the bath itself.
Pachinko is a form of Japanese gambling where you turn a little silver knob, which shoots BBs out of the top of the machine. If you turn the knob too far to the right, the BBs run all the way down and out the one side. If you don't turn far enough, the BBs don't make it to the center of the machine, and fall down the other. If you hold the knob just right, though, the BBs will bounce off some nails, and if you are lucky, fall into a small slot where you will win 5 more BBs. If you win, you take your BBs and exchange them for money outside of the Pachinko hall (due to gambling restrictions).
Golden week is quite often reffered to as the "Japanese Spring Break." It offers many state holidays including Showa Day, Greenery Day, Children's Day, And Constitution Memorial Day. It takes place during the first full week of May. There is also a major festival in the southern city of Fukuoka this week, it is called Hakata Dontaku.
Japan's weather is temperate, but varies greatly from north to south. In Hokkaido, the winters are long and cold and the summers are cool. On Honshū's west coast, on the Sea of Japan, the winter brings heavy snowfall and temperatures are generally cooler than on the eastern Pacific coast. In the Central Highland area, there are are large differences between summer and winter and relatively little rainfall. The Seto Inland Sea region is sheltered by the mountains of Chūgoku and Shikoku, leading to year-round mild weather. On the eastern, Pacific coast there are cold winters with relatively little snowfall and hot, humid summers. The Ryukyu islands, to Japan's south, experience a subtropical climate with warm winters and hot summers.
The rainy season starts in Okinawa in May, and gradually works its way north until it dissipates in northern Japan before reaching Hokkaidō in late July. In Honshū, the rainy season runs from early June and lasts about 6 weeks. Rainfall is quite frequent at this time and it is highly advisable to take an umbrella with you wherever you go.
Most people arrive in Japan at Narita Airport (NRT) near Tokyo or Kansai Airport (KIX) near Osaka and Kyoto. Other Japanese airports offering international connections are Nagoya's Chubu Centrair International Airport (NGO), Hiroshima Airport (HIJ), Fukuoka Airport (FUK) and Sapporo New Chitose Airport (CTS).
Japan's major airlines are Japan Airlines (JAL) and All Nippon Airways (ANA). United Airlines and Northwest Airlines also have significant operations based at Narita Airport.
You can reach Kobe and Osaka by ferry from several ports in mainland Asia, including Shanghai in China and Pusan in South Korea.
FESCO runs a service from Vostochny in Eastern Russia to the ports of Yokohama, Nagoya, Kobe and Osaka
Business Intour Service operates a line between Fushiki in western Honshu and Vladivostock in Russia, which is where the Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow terminates.
Upon arrival in a new city a traveller can pick up the free tourist map of the city from a Tourist Information Center. If you can’t find the TIC (sometimes they are hard to find unless you know what you are looking for), go to the nearest international hotel and get a tourist map from the concierge.
JAL and ANA airlines have an extensive network of domestic flights covering the four main islands and many of the smaller ones. Usually trains are the transportation of choice for distances under 600 km, because they are faster and more convenient.
Rail is a major form of transport in Japan. Operated by Japan Railways Group, the services are exceedingly efficient, fast and comfortable and almost without exception represent the most convenient option for travellers.
For subways, the price of your ride depends on how far you are going. There will be a map indicating the cost from the current station to all the stations in the system. Carry your city map with you, as it includes an English subway map and could come in handy if the station’s map isn’t in English. When you enter the subway, you put your ticket in the gate and retrieve it. When you exit the subway at your destination, the gate will accept your ticket and keep it. Don’t worry if you didn’t put enough on your ticket. All subway exits will have a place to add additional value to your ticket so you can exit.
There are day passes and stored value cards that could be of value if you are travelling a lot on the subways.
The Japan Rail Pass, or JR Pass, is a deal devised specifically for visitors to Japan. Seven-day, 14-day and 21-day passes will allow unlimited travel on all JR lines and affiliated buses and ferries for the period of the pass. If you planning on travelling by train for even moderate distances, the pass will likely be the cheapest option. The pass is only available to international travellers on a tourist visa and must be purchased overseas. On purchase, you will be issued a Japan Rail Pass Exchange Order, which must be exchanged for a JR Pass at a designated in JR Travel Service Centre in Japan. When you exchange the pass, you need to specify the day you want the period to commence and that day must be within three months of the issue of the Exchange Order.
There are two types of passes. The Ordinary Passes and Green Passes, which allow access to superior Green cars.
Prices for Ordinary Passes are:
Prices for Green Passes are:
Source: Japan Rail Pass Types and Prices
The cost in local currency is calculated when you purchase the Exchange Order.
A list of places where the JR Passes can be purchased can be found on the Japan Rail Pass website.
Several other less expensive passes are also available, covering only specific areas.
For travelers with an adventurous heart and an empty wallet to match, the Seishun 18 Kippu (Seishun Juhachi Kippu)
is a cheap alternative to the Japan Rail Pass. For 11,500 Yen, you get unlimited travel on local trains for 5 non-consecutive days. It is available only in these periods (as of 2008):
March 1 to April 10
July 20 to September 10
December 10 to January 20
You cannot use the ticket to travel on any of the fancy bullet trains, or even most special express and express trains, and will instead be limited to the slow, clunky, and constantly stopping local trains. However, the fact that the travel days are non-consecutive means that you are able to stay in a destination for much longer than the Japan Rail Pass. Travel from Tokyo to Kyoto, stay for a week, then travel back, and you have only used 2 of your 5 days! One could quite feasibly travel from one end of Japan to another on this ticket alone, spending a mere 11,500 yen. For the truly impoverished, you can travel at night to save on accommodation too. For more information see http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2362.html
A useful resource (in English) for finding train timetables, fares and durations is Hyperdia.
Due to the comprehensive coverage and efficiency of the trains in Japan, long-distance buses are not often considered by visitors to Japan. They are however a cheap alternative for those wanting to save a few pennies. The buses are comfortable and often have onboard toilets, guides and even food and beverage services. Timetables can be found at local information centres.
City buses, while not particularly necessary in the major cities, can be handy in smaller regional centres. Methods of payment vary. One system requires passengers to board at the front and deposit the fare into a slot beside the driver. If you're not sure what the fare is, tell the driver your destination and offer some coins to pick out. Another system requires passengers to board at the centre or back of the bus and take a ticket. A panel at the front indicates which fare is to be paid depending on your destination - this should be paid when you get off the bus.
Japan is a relatively safe country to navigate by car if you choose. It is the most flexible way of getting around, if you are in the countryside. Car rental is not necessarily expensive, but road tolls and parking charges can quickly add up. The main problem for visitors is the deciphering of road signs. Also, be sure to always remember to drive on the left.
To drive a car in Japan, you will have to have an International Driving Permit.
The cost of fuel is comparable to European prices, about double the price in Canada and triple that of US prices.
Car parks have had to deal with Japan's lack of space in innovative ways, including stacking the cars with lift systems.
There is an extensive network of domestic ferry routes connecting the numerous Japanese islands. Although the main 4 islands are connected by bridges and tunnels, the smaller islands can often only be reached by boat.
Bikes are a popular way to get around in Japan, even in large cities like Tokyo. It is often possible to rent a bicycle in tourist areas. Sidewalks are not off limits to cyclists and often are the preferred place to ride bikes. Just ring the bell to alert pedestrians.
Visa
Nationals of the following countries are eligible to enter Japan without a visa for the purpose of tourism only.
* Although citizens of certain countries are permitted to stay for more than 90 days, the social visit pass given at the point of arrival is for 90 days only. [2] Citizens of these countries who wish to stay longer than 90 days must apply for an extension of their stay at the nearest Immigration Bureau of Japan.
Nationals of all other countries must apply for a visa from a Japanese Embassy or Consulate.
Working Holiday Visa
Citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada, the Republic of Korea, France, Germany, the United Kingdom, Ireland and Denmark are eligible to apply for a special type of visa, whereby the applicant may work while in Japan without a sponsor or prior work agreement. The visa is initially valid for 6 months only, but applications for extension for another 6 months are relatively simple, making it effectively a one year working visa. This visa may only be applied for once in a person's lifetime, and is given free of charge.
For more information see http://www.mofa.go.jp/j_info/visit/w_holiday/index.html
Biometric Checks
Since November 20, 2007 all non-Japanese citizens over the age of 16 are required to have their fingerprints and a picture taken upon arrival in Japan as part of an anti-terrorism plan. [3]
The Japanese use the Yen (¥).
There are both notes and coins. Most likely, you’ll see 1000, 5000 and 10000 yen notes. ATMs (see below), mostly give out 10000 yen notes. Coins come in denominations of 500, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. All notes and coins are marked with the denomination of the bill or coin with the exception of the 5 Yen coin, which is bronze with a hole in the middle.
ATMs are plentiful, but most are not hooked up to the International networks, meaning that you can’t get money. For international travellers, the best choice is to find an international bank. Citibank was the most common. Also, the postal service has ATMs that are hooked into the international network, though those are only open during the postal office hours. Look for ATMs with English instructions, or ask at the TIC or your hotel where the nearest international ATM is.
Credit cards are not widely used, and even most hotels expect cash payments. Restaurants almost always expect payment in cash. Therefore be prepared to carry lots of cash with you at all times.
English
English is not widely spoken. It is, however, very widely used on signs throughout the country, and many menus and restaurants will have English / Japanese menus. The Tourist Information Centers (TICs) will have English speakers, and can help with translations if needed.
Spoken Japanese
The Japanese language itself is relatively simple to speak, as the pronunciation is relatively simple compared to English. Japanese writing is phonetic, and can be accurately written in a romanized form called Romaji. To learn Japanese pronunciations, an online guide such as the one at http://www.people.fas.harvard.edu/~bestor/easy_pronunciation.htm can be useful. However, if you simply listen to the way a Japanese person says certain words, you will naturally pick it up. For those who do not have access to a native Japanese speaker, try listening to the vocabulary on http://japanese.about.com/blsoundfile.htm.
Written Japanese
Japanese writing is far more complex. There are three sets of characters, two sets of phonetic "kana" and one of pictographic "kanji". The two types of kana are hiragana and katakana, and each contain 46 syllables. Hiragana is used for most words, whilst Katakana is used mainly for foreign words. Kanji is a set of Chinese characters used to represent whole concepts; for example, the word "kitten" is written with two kanji, one meaning "cat" and one meaning "child". There are around 2000 Kanji in common usage. The difference between the three scripts is very obvious: Hiragana is curvy and simple, Katakana is straight and simple, and Kanji is complex. All three sets of characters are intermixed in sentences in paragraphs.
Though you can easily run up tabs of ¥10000 (US$ 100) per person in the nicer restaurants, it’s possible to eat really well for a decent price. Decent meals with lots of variety can be found for ¥500 and ¥1000 ($US 5 - $US 10) a meal. English isn’t widely spoken, so look for places with English menus or picture menus.
The fish market is a great place to get a cheap breakfast. In most towns there will be a fish market, and since the workers are winding up their day just as you’re getting started, there’s a ton of great sushi and soba noodle places to eat at.
Variety stores have a large selection of prepared meals, from sandwiches (egg salad, tuna, ham and cheese and vegetable are usually all available) to meat skewers and cold noodle dishes.
Also, there is a strong possibility that as you are sitting at the counter, you’ll get invited to join in the conversation, meal and drinks of other parties. Don’t be surprised if they end up paying for your meal - it’s Japanese tradition.
Accommodation is very expensive in Japan, but with advanced planning budget travel can be achieved.
Most large cities have a Tourist Information Center (TIC). In most every train station of some size, there will be a Tourist Information Center. Here you will find English speaking staff that can assist you in planning your travels, including booking accommodation. The TICs are hooked into the Welcome Inn Reservation Center, which allows booking of a number of properties across Japan. The TIC can book places using the Welcome Inn Reservation Center.
A Ryokan is a traditional Japanese style inn, where you will find mat floors with a futon and sliding paper doors (though the door to the external hall is a thick metal secure door), and will include a public bath.
The capsule hotel is a cheap alternative as well. The capsule is about 2 meters deep and 1 meter by 1 meter high and wide, just enough to get into and roll around comfortably. The capsule contains a small TV, a radio, an alarm clock and a lamp, all built into the surrounding walls and coated in plastic, making it feel like it could all just be hosed down for cleaning. Basically, the capsule hotel is like a hostel dorm, but for business men in Japan. You share a public bath and will get a small locker, but they will hold a large bag behind the desk. The capsule provides all toiletries needed, including toothbrush and paste, shaver and shaving cream and towels and PJs. No women are allowed at the majority of capsule hotels.
Like accommodation but unlike food, finding cheap drinks in Japan is tough! There are places that charge as little as ¥300 for a drink, but at many places you’ll be spending ¥600 - ¥1000 for a pint of beer. It is also legal to walk down the street with alcohol.
If you are in Japan in the summer, for an interesting experience, you need to check out the “beer gardens” that department stores set up on their roof tops. They often have “all you can drink and eat” specials (timed for 60 or 90 minutes), and provide you with good beer and a do it yourself grill to cook your food.
Japan has a very low crime rate. In most of the cities, you can see children as young as six catching the trains by themselves, and travel at all times of day and night is considered safe by most. The risk of theft is very low; if you leave a bag behind in a shop, you will just as likely find it still there when you get back, or behind the shopkeepers desk. That said, no nation is perfect, and no doubt unscrupulous people do exist in the larger cities.
However, Japan is quite prone to natural disasters, with earthquakes being the most dangerous of these. While the chance of an earthquake occuring during a visit is extremely low, it may be a good idea to at least familiarize yourself with basic earthquake safety procedures before you leave.
"Manga cafes" are dotted along the streets of almost every city in Japan. For a very reasonable price (about 100 Yen per 15 minutes), you receive a private cubicle with a PC with internet access at blistering Japanese internet speeds. The chairs are incredibly comfortable (making them an excellent place to sleep for the cash-deprived), and you can even order snacks and drinks from the staff.
You can buy prepaid international phone cards from just about any convenience store. Pay phones are not as common as in some countries, as just about everyone in Japan has a mobile phone, but are found in most stations.
This is version 62. Last edited at 19:35 on May 12, 08 by Lavafalls (+53). 42 articles link to this page.
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