Travel Guide > Asia > Nepal > Kathmandu
Kathmandu is the capital and largest city in Nepal. With a population of 700,000, it is the most modern city in the country - which isn't necessarily saying much. In Kathmandu, modern development encounters a laid-back, devoutly Hindu society.
Thamel, in downtown Kathmandu, has achieved almost legendary status as a backpacker bliss. It is a colourful jumble of craft shops, boutique cafes, tuk tuks, trekking gear, and rainbow prayer flags. The roads are narrow, squeezing every walk of life together, but, unlike many other Asian cities, there is no sense of urgency or claustrophobia. The hippie trail anything-goes atmosphere still lingers in the tiny alleys and Tibetan chanting hangs in the air. If you do need a break from ground level Thamel, just find a restaurant and head upstairs, where you'll find yourself in a maze of laid back rooftop gardens stretching across the area, set against bright blue skies and snow capped mountains. These are brilliant spots to get out your guidebook, order a (surprisingly good) coffee and grab a slice of homemade cake. At night, Thamel is a twinkling mass of coloured lights, paper lanterns and neon restaurant signs. You'll never be short of ideas about where to eat. Every couple of paces, you'll find somewhere famed for its delicious dishes and cosy ambience. It really is, quite possibly, the very best place in the world for guilt-free gluttony. After all, you can trek all of it off the next day.
The heart of of "tourist" Kathmandu. A thriving labyrinth of narrow lanes and streets that no map can truly distinguish. Jam packed with hotels, hostels and guesthouses, a tout is never far away. Yet never so aggressive as to be annoying. Fake trekking stores offer fakes, copies of fakes, and fake copies of trekking gear. Some good, some not so good, and some to avoid so therefore be careful. There are tour agencies, bookstores and restaurants everywhere you look so there's no chance of becoming bored. Though longer term back packers tend to find it's touristy ways a little much after a few weeks.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the heart of the city. The square is packed with temples, but its two most famous features are Hanuman Dhoka, the old royal palace, and Kasthamandap, the wooden house from which Kathmandu takes its name.
Durbar Square is one of the seven groups of monuments and buildings which display the full range of historic and artistic achievements for which the Kathmandu Valley is world famous. It is of extreme importance regarding the cultural heritage in the country. The seven groups of monuments and buildings, apart from Durbar Square, include Patan and Bhaktapur, the Buddhist stupas of Swayambhu and Bauddhanath and the Hindu temples of Pashupati and Changu Narayan.
Swayambhunath, The Monkey temple as it's more touristy name suggests, is a stupa that's over run by primates. It's a good 15 minute of step climping to get to the stop, but worth it as this famous stupa is a spectacle to behold. Watch your valuables for primate hands dipping into it. There's a secret way into the temple around the back as well. But best to take the steps the first time you head up.
The Varanasi of Nepal. Burning Ghats, temples and Sadu's are abound in this religions and sacred place. Beware of Shiva's birthday though, it's the one day in the year Hashish is legal, the crowds are huge!
Kathmandu is surrounded my Tibetan monasteries. Visiting one is well worth the usual long hike you need to endure. Most are also open to volunteers.
Not a great deal to see. But the place to come if you need to stock up on memory cards, batteries or get your camera equipment sorted out. Ignore Thamel's tourist prices, and go to the genuine dealers here
There are also many religious events in Kathmandu and the rest of Nepal throughout the year.
They include:
Most people plan on some trekking during their trip to Nepal, and the best times to do this are October/November and March/April. During these periods, you'll hopefully see blue crisp skies, brilliant sunshine and very chilly nights. In spring (March/April) the bougainvilla blooms, so the lower sections of your treks will be even more colourful. The monsoon arrives in the height of summer (late June - October), and there tends to be rain almost every day. However, this may well be a short heavy shower rather than constant downpour, so please don't be discouraged from visiting Nepal if summer is your only window of opportunity. Many treks are still possible over this period, but you'll need to watch your footing more carefully (or bring some hiking poles) and mind out for leeches - they really are wily little beggars!
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) in Kathmandu is the only international airport in Nepal. Nepal Airlines, the national airline, serves flights to Hong Kong, Osaka, Shanghai, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Delhi and Dubai. Do not expect western standards. The room per seat maybe less that you are used to. People over 6' tall will definitely notice the lack of leg room.
No train links exist to and from Kathmandu.
It's possible to rent a car and driver for a day, or for several days. Prices vary and it's best to negotiate for everything including food and fuel.
Renting a motorcycle is another option. Starting rates are around 400 rupees per day. Several tour agency's will rent you a bike. It's best to carry a mobile phone with sim card in case of break downs.
From the Sunali border it's about 9 hours to Kathmandu or Pokhara, depending on traffic and road conditions. Local buses and tourist buses leave frequently.
There are more travel agents in Kathmandu than you can possibly imagine. You will have no problem in finding them.
It's a lot cheaper booking in person, than over the internet. A tour can be arranged for the next day with no problems, weather permitting.
It's advisable to get a driver with a car as the roads in Nepal are not the best and the locals are well used to them.
Mini vans can dart you out to the suburbs with frequency. They are cheap, over crowded and leave often.
GreenLine bus is the premier tourist class bus service with frequent Pokhara to Kathmandu links. They server a large buffet lunch and often state they are an hour faster than local tourist buses. They cost about $17 for the trip. While a local tourist bus is a third less with no lunch. A local ordinary bus is half the price again. All buses take about the same time, but a local ordinary bus does take longer due to more stops.
Nearly everywhere in Kathmandu is accessible by foot. Thamel is best avoided if you are looking for a cultural day out, as it's tout ridden. But once past this area its easy to plan out a day trip. Map's are needed if you plan on not getting too lost.
When walking around Kathmandu, here's a hint: All those guys that sidle up to you and ask "Asheesh?" are not mistaking you for a local celebrity. They are trying to sell you something.
Renting a motorcycle is possible to go between places like Patan Kathmandu, but for inner city traveling are best avoided due to the heavy traffic build up.
Nepalese food is plentiful and easily obtainable here.
Devoid of fast food, Kathmandu hosts a myriad of international restaurants. Italian pastas and pizzas are available just about everywhere. Chinese food is listed on nearly every menu. Indian cuisine is spicy and prepared will. While the Mexican offerings are a little non-Mexican.
Make sure all your meat is cooked. And if the place is questionable, eat cooked veg too.
Kathmandu is chock a block full of places to drink. Famous places such as Rum Doodle along with Tom and Jerry's offer everything from cheap beer, to cocktails galore. Many staying open so long as there are customers.
It's worth trying the warm fermented Tibetan beer at least once. Available in many of the local tibetan eateries.
There are many many cheap budget hotels in Kathmandu. Most offering rooms from $5 upwards, though for longer term guests discounts are available.
Thamel can get noisy so one might think about heading 5 minutes walk out of the tourist hotspot to Pakanajol. Here there are a host of homely, clean and secure guest houses such as the Kathmandu Garden House, Pakanajol Tel 977 - 1 -4381239 where a friendly French Nepalese couple will look after you very well.
| Property | Address | Type | Popularity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acme Guest House | Thamel | Hostel | 67 |
| Ambassador Hotel Kathmandu | Lazimpat, Kathmandu | Hotel | - |
| Astoria Hotel | G.P.O. Box 981 Lazimpat | Hotel | 76 |
| Buddha Maya Gardens Hotel | PO BOX 21218 Thamel | Hostel | - |
| Chobhar Village Resort | GPO 8974-CPC552 Kathmandu Suburbs | Hotel | - |
| Elbrus Home | Thamel Kathmandu | Guesthouse | 84 |
| Fuji Hotel | Jyatha Thamel | Hostel | 91 |
| Heian Treks & Expedition | Thamel Kathmandu | Guesthouse | - |
| Holyland Guest House | Thamel POB 21851 | Hostel | 78 |
| Hotel Blue Horizon | Kesharmahal Thamel | Hostel | - |
| Hotel Country Villa | Nagarkot Bhaktapur | Hotel | 77 |
| Hotel Courtyard | Z Street Thamel | Hotel | 100 |
| Hotel Diplomat | P.o box 10485 | Hostel | 70 |
| Hotel Down Town | Thamel Satghumti | Hostel | - |
| Hotel Dynasty Thamel | GPO Box 9020 | Hotel | 90 |
| Hotel Encounter Nepal (p) Ltd. | Thamel | Hotel | 90 |
| Hotel Florid Nepal | P.O.Box 10560, Z-Street, Thamel | Hostel | 86 |
| Hotel Ganesh Himal | Chhetrapati | Hotel | 77 |
| Hotel Holy Himalaya | Thamel -29 | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Kathmandu View | Thamel | Hotel | 84 |
| Hotel Kathmandu View (P) LTD | Thamel , Kathmandu Thamel , Kathmandu | Hostel | 82 |
| Hotel Millennium | G.P.O. Box:- 20213 Kaldhara, Thamel | Hostel | 53 |
| Hotel Paradise Plaza | Jyatha, Kantipath | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Potala | PO Box: 26182 Thamel | Hotel | 83 |
| Hotel Shakti | Amrit Marg, Bhagwan Bahal Thamel | Hotel | 37 |
| Hotel Shanker | Ward No. 2 P.O.Box 350,Lazimpat | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Silver Home | Thamel-29 | Hostel | 66 |
| Hotel Thamel | Ward No. 29 Block No. 16/57, Thamel | Hotel | 82 |
| Hotel Utse P. Ltd. | Jyatha, Thamel | Hotel | 83 |
| Hotel Yanki | Chhetrapati, Thamel Kathmandu | Hotel | - |
| International Guest House Kathmandu | Paknajol Kathmandu, Nepal | Guesthouse | 93 |
| Kathmandu Guest House | PO BOX 21218 Thamel | Hostel | 66 |
| Kathmandu Peace Guest House | Ktm-16 Pakanajol | Hostel | 79 |
| Kathmandu Prince Hotel | Kshetrapti, Thamel | Hotel | 48 |
| Madhuban Guesthouse | kathmandu thamel | Hostel | 68 |
| Moonlight Resort Pvt. Ltd. | Lakeside Pokhara, Kantipath | Hotel | - |
| Nepal Youth Hostel Council House | Subidhanagar, Tinkune Kathmandu | Hostel | 70 |
| Nirvana Garden | GPO Box 5728, Thamel Chhetrapaty | Hotel | 85 |
| Norling Guest House | Jyatha-Thamel | Hostel | 72 |
| Park Village Resort | PO BOX 21218 Thamel | Hostel | - |
| Potala Guest House | Thamel | Guesthouse | - |
| Shangri-la Guest House | Thamel, Jyatha | Hostel | 71 |
| The Everest Hotel | New Baneswor, P.O. Box 659 | Hotel | - |
| The Shambala Holiday Inn | Chhetrapati-Thamel PO Box 5084 | Hotel | - |
| Thorong Peak Guest House | Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal | Guesthouse | - |
| Tibet Peace Guest House | Paknajol, Thamel | Guesthouse | 47 |
| Trekking Mart Pvt.Ltd | P. O. Box 20515, Sukra Bhawan, Thamel | Campsite | - |
| Via Via Cafe | Kaldhara, Paknajol | Hostel | 81 |
Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. Work for tourists is scarce. Yet it is there is the form of volunteering. There are plenty of online pay to volunteer NGOs out there. But once in country you will find the streets full of local organizations seeking help. Some offering accommodation and local food in return.
The internet is available, but it's of a very poor standard. Prices vary tremendously. And it's often better to head outside of the tourist zones if you are planning to spend a lot of time online.
See also: International Telephone Calls
The landlines work, the cell phone service does not always. International SMS rarely works.
The Nepalese postal service works, just. But for shipping gifts and heavy goods back home take advantage of the excellent courier services on offer. There are dozens of courier agents in and around the streets of Thamel and beyond.
Get quotes based on the company and weight, then shop around. Most people have not had problems with parcels being delivered. Though packing up too many counterfeit DVDs and clothes will most likely get the parcel stopped at your end.
This is version 46. Last edited at 19:42 on Nov 11, 09 by Utrecht (+465). 17 articles link to this page.

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