Travel Guide > Asia > Laos
At the end of the Vietnam War, Laos could add to its list of achievements being the most bombed country during warfare. It's not surprising, then, that the communist government which took control in the 70's was not particularly interested in opening its doors to foreign visitors. Some three decades later, however, a poor economy has brought the country to a time of reconsideration; tourism seems to be the light at the end of the tunnel for Laos.
For a long time only a few travellers would adventure across the Mekong to Laos. In the last few years this has changed. Laos has become very popular among the more adventurous backpacker crowd and nature lovers. Cities that only a few years ago would see a handful of travellers a week now have 100s. The major cities are now filled with carbon copy foreigner friendly restaurants restaurants and cafes similar to the ones in Thailand. It is still possible to see the less developed Laos by going slightly off the beaten track. But if your expecting a quiet ride down the river in a tube in Vang Vieng, be warned it can be like a traffic jam of foreign tourists all pushing there tubes down stream drinking lots of beer.
Laos is a landlocked country with many mountains and dense jungle. The main transport artery for the country until modern times was the Mekong River. The Mekong River runs either in or along the border of most of Laos. Laos shares international borders with Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China and Myanmar. At the present time a tourist can cross legally with all the countries except Myanmar.
Adventures abound in Laos, with towns like Muang Vang Vieng being a perfect base for exploring the surroundings of verdant rice paddies, majestic karst mountains and the clear, cold waters of the Nam Song. Outdoor activities in Vang Vieng include the ever popular tubing, kayaking, caving, trekking, rock climbing, and even mountain biking and trekking opporutnities, all of which could be arranged easily through one of the many operators in town.
Historical sites include the enigmatic Plain of Jars in mountainous Xieng Khouang Province, and the royal city of Luang Prabang, also on the UNESCO World heritage list, where time flows so slowly it almost doesn't feel like it even exists.
For nature lovers Laos offers plenty of natural attractions, of particular note is the marvellous eco-trekking programme in the Nam Ha NPA (National Protected Area) which can be explored from the larger town of Luang Nam Tha or places like Muang Sing, a short 2 hour sawngthaew hop away. The culturally inquisitive can also arrange for homestays in hill tribe villages in the NPA at the end of a day's trekking, providing an experience of the "real Laos" away from major cities and tourist hotspots like Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
Laos has a hot and humid tropical climate. There are two seasons. The rainy season lasts from May to October while the much more pleasant dry season lasts from November to April. During the rainy season there is about 200 to 300 mm of rain a month and the high temperatures, averaging around 33 degrees Celssius during the day and around 24 degrees at night, makes this time the worst for a visit. Winter is much more pleasant with days still close to 30 degrees and nights a nice 15 to 18 degrees. March to May can be very hot, with temperatures exceeding 40 degrees in large parts of the country regularly. Mountainous areas, especially in the north can get rather chilly during winter, when northern winds blow from China.
Because of the humidity during the rainy season clothes that are made from quick-drying material is smart. Dryers are virtually non-existent there and if you hand wash clothes, there’s no guarantee it will dry because the sun is so unpredictable. It can get quite cold in the mountains and northern Laos near December, so try to pack a sweater or windbreaker of sorts if you are headed to Xieng Khouang Province or up north towards the Chinese border.
The two main international airports in Laos are Wattay International Airport (VTE) at Vientiane and Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ). Pakse Airport (PKZ) is smaller and serves international flight to/from Siem Reap.
Lao Airlines fly from different international cities in the region including Bangkok, Hanoi, Siem Reap and Kunming. From Kunming they offer a direct flight to Laos every Wednesday, Fridays and Sundays. Tickets can be bought online and picked up at the Lao Airlines office at the Camellia Hotel in Kunming. They accept USD or RMB.
Catching the early Lao Airlines flight back to Kunming? No worries. There is usually a salangwatha hiding around somewhere even in the rain.
AirAsia now provides a budget option for travellers with flights heading from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to Vientiane, Laos. For those on a tight budget, another option is to fly domestic from Bangkok to Udon Thani, before catching the Thai-Lao friendship bus at the BKS (Bor Kor Sor) bus station in town to Vientiane.
Bangkok Airways flies daily from Bangkok to Luang Prabang as well.
It should be possible from 2009 onwards to take a direct train from Bangkok to Vientiane across the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. Other than that, no direct services are available.
Technically you can cross Laos from Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and China. From and to the latter few people do as there are restrictions of driving yourself in China. Border crossings with Myanmar currently are not possible. Be sure to have the proper documentation and insurance and driver's licence.
The very comfortable Thai-Lao International Bus runs from Nong Khai and Udon Thani (nearest major Thai airport) in Thailand to the Talat Sao bus station in Vientiane. Tickets can be bought, on the day itself, at all stations. First bus leaves at around 8am. Visas have to be arranged beforehand - passports are checked before tickets are issued.
To Savanakhet you can also cross to and from Thailans. Buses also go directly between Bangkok and Pakse.
There are even direct buses from Vientiane daily to Hanoi taking 24 hours but it's a long and tough journey.
The Chiang Kong - Huay Xai crossing from northern Thailand into Laos is a popular riverine route among travellers, largely because of the slow scenic journey. This involves a night stop at Pak Beng before reaching Luang Prabang the next evening. Crossings to/from Stung Treng are made to Cambodia by river. Near Savanakhet your can also cross the river.
Many cities in Laos have domestic flights, therefore making it easy to travel between cities by air. Most of the airports in the country are very small and the staff is pretty relaxed. If arriving early for a Lao Airlines flight and the earlier flight is about to take off, if there is room it is very easy to jump on it. Airports with regular domestic service are in Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Luang Namtha, Pakse, Phonsavan, Savannakhet and Muang Xay. Some of these towns will only have 1 or 2 flights a day to certain cities, therefore plan carefully. Other towns have airports but are mainly used by the military and for charter flights.
There is currently no railway system in Laos. Therefore a traveller must find a different mode of transport.
Renting a car with or with out a driver is becoming more and more popular among travellers in Laos. The roads in the country have greatly improved making highway driving a breeze. Also compared to most Asian countries Laos traffic is much more manageable and easier to navigate.
Travelling in Laos means getting up early. From Vientiane to Luang Prabang the bus ride can take up to 11 hours if you're on the government bus because of the frequent stops so most buses leave starting at 6am with 10am seeing one of the last buses out.
At this point most of the major roads are paved. The only one that may still present problems is the road from Luang Nham Tha to Huay Xai, the border town of Thailand, but that is currently being cemented now. In worst case scenarios you have to get out and help push the bus out of the mud.
The speedboats are safe, even though the helmet they provide can be a little disconcerting. The spaces are cramped though, meaning you sit knees to chin for the entire duration.
All visitors require a visa to enter Laos. Tourist visa permitting a stay of 30 days can be obtained in advance at Lao Embassies and Consulates. Visa fee varies depending on nationality.
If you are staying for 15 days or less, visa-on-arrival is available at most border checkpoints. It's very easy and hassle-free. Two passport-size photos (4 x 6 cm) are required and the fee is US$30. They usually give you change in USD unless otherwise specified. Visa-on-Arrival is available at the following border checkpoints:[1]
Airports
From China
From Thailand
From Vietnam
See also: Money Matters
The kip (₭ or ₭N) has been the currency of Laos since 1952. Frequently used banknotes are in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000 and 20000 kip. Less frequently you may find banknotes with the denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 or 50000 kip. There are also 10, 20 and 50 att coins, but these are rarely used.
ATMs are becoming increasingly common in the larger cities in Laos, including Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Viang Vieng and Luang Namtha.[2]
Laotian is the official language of the country. Learning a few words can be helpful in big cities but once in the countryside it won't go very far because most people in Laos do not speak Laotian as their first language or at home.
It may be harder to meet fellow travellers in Laos than in Thailand due to the guesthouse lodging system as opposed to hostels. Most of the rooms are either singles or doubles and so being placed with an unknown traveller is not common.
See also: Travel Health
If you are on medication, be sure to bring along the patient information leaflet. Also be sure to bring along extra medication so that you won't have to worry about finding a pharmacy if you do lose some of your medication. Bring along an English explanation from your doctor regarding the medicine you are taking. If applicable, you may also want to bring along a clean set of syringes and needles. Remember to bring along a doctor's statement for these as well.
If you wear glasses or contact lenses, bring along the optician's description or an extra pair of glasses or set of contact lenses. Divers and snorkelers can purchase or rent goggles at diving shops/schools. Be sure to contact your local medical authorities prior to departure, such as your local GP or travel clinic. Arranging a last minute trip to Laos shouldn't be a problem for a healthy person. Be sure to always bring along your vaccination documents, if you have these. Of course, it's best to arrange vaccinations well before departure if at all possible.
Malaria
There is a risk of contracting Malaria in Laos all year round, especially beyond the larger cities. Therefore it is very important to limit the risk of contracting Malaria by taking preventative measures such as by taking Malaria medication. Other preventative measures are: covering arms, legs and feet in the evening, wearing mosquito repellent and using mosquito-netting to keep mosquitoes at bay. You can also saturate the mosquito-netting with a mosquito repellent. Also, be sure to bring something to hang your mosquito-netting up with such as rope and a screw-hook or cork-screw (Swiss army knife). The type of Malaria medication you should take depends on the length of your stay, your personal medical background and the area that you wish to visit. Advice on Malaria medication is quite personal; therefore it's best to get advice about your personal situation from the medical authorities mentioned earlier.
Dengue and Japanese B-encephalitis
These are both illnesses which are spread by mosquitoes; therefore you should take the same precautions to ward of infection as you would for Malaria. There is no vaccine for Dengue; however there is a vaccine for Japanese B-encephalitis. Vaccination is recommended if you are planning on staying in Asia for more than 6 months.
DTP: Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio
These vaccinations are advised for most countries beyond Europe, the vaccination is active valid for 10 years.
Hepatitis A
Choose from either short or long-term protection. Long-term protection is valid for 10 years.
Stomach Typhoid Fever
This vaccination is advised by medical authorities if you decide to stay in Laos for longer than 2 weeks. The vaccination is valid for 3 years.
Be sure that you have received the correct vaccinations for your holiday destination. It's also important to try to be as healthy as possible prior to departure. Of course you'll also want to avoid becoming ill while you are on holiday. Remain vigilant about your health, when in doubt, consult a doctor.
Jet lag & overcoming it
The common traveller's 'ailment' known as "Jet lag" is caused by a disruption to your biological clock (primarily your sleeping and waking rhythms) due to flying through different time zones. The body needs time to adjust to the new biorhythm for the first few days after your flight.
During this time you can feel tired and irritable. Try to avoid drinking coffee or alcohol during the flight or do so in limited amounts. On arrival, try not to demand too much of your body for the first couple of days. It's also best to adjust to the time-difference and the new sleeping rhythm as quickly as possible. We recommend an hour of sleep after arrival and then remaining awake until (early) bedtime.
Diarrhoea
A change of rhythm, climate and food (especially spicy food) can cause your stomach to become out of sorts. As long as your only symptom is loose, watery stools and no other symptoms, you should be just fine if you rest a bit and drink plenty of water in small quantities.
It may be necessary to take some Oral Rehydration Salts (ORS) dissolved in water to prevent dehydration and this is especially important for the elderly and for children. Drugs, such as loperamide and diphenoxylate, can be taken if you really need to when on the road to prevent diarrhoea (not suitable for children under two years old).
These drugs prevent the peristaltic action of the intestine, which stops stomach cramps and suppresses the diarrhoea. Only use these drugs when you're on the road and do not have regular access to a toilet. If diarrhoea persists for more than 48 hours and is also accompanied by headache, vomiting, or blood in the stool or if you’re taking any other medication at the time, you should contact a doctor. The doctor can send a stool sample to a lab for analysis to determine the source of the problem. Diarrhoea can end suddenly, but can leave a lingering feeling of lethargy since your intestines need time to recover.
To prevent diarrhoea
Only consume water and soft drinks from properly closed and sealed tins or bottles, or drink boiled water; such as tea or coffee. Fruit juice is safe, provided no water has been added. Food, particularly meat and fish, must be well cooked. We advise against the western-style salads offered in salad bars (in expensive hotels).
Hamburgers (personal experience) are generally a lot less safe than the normal meat the locals eat. It's not always safe to eat from street stalls.
Eat where it's busy, the time between food preparation and consumption is therefore the shortest, which is good for the hygiene. Take note of how the plates, glasses and cutlery are washed. There is often no running water and only a bucket with soap in it, baking in the sun. If that is the case, it's sensible to find somewhere else to eat. Restaurants where you can see how clean it is are recommended. With regards to street stalls, it’s probably smart not to eat meat at the end of the day; the meat can sometimes have been lying around all day un-refrigerated. A tried and trusted remedy to prevent dehydration during diarrhoea is to drink cola and bouillon (not at the same time). Cola can be bought everywhere and you can bring stock cubes and a single-cup beverage with you from home.
Bilharzia
Prevent infection by small worms by not swimming in still water. The southern part of the Mekong River should also be avoided for swimming.
Skin care
Take all cuts, scratches etc in the tropics seriously: keep a close eye on them, clean them with disinfectant and keep them covered with a plaster during the day. Don't scratch mosquito bites.
Always use a high factor sunscreen cream on exposed skin, even in the rainy season. Snorkelling with a T-shirt and shorts is not unusual. The sun is super strong at the equator, even if it's cloudy.
You can avoid attracting biting insects, by not wearing brightly coloured or black clothing, strong perfume or deodorant or aftershave (try to avoid resembling a flower). It you’re prone to skin irritations, wear cotton or linen clothing. You can help avoid prickly heat by using talcum powder on your body after your morning shower.
Wash or disinfect your hands after using the toilet, and don't bite your nails.
During the dry season, in the woods, there’s a slight chance that a tick may land on you (In European woods there is a far greater chance). Check your body for these bugs in the morning and evening; especially behind the knees and in the crotch. Should you find one, don't try to just pull it out, use tick pincers (obtainable from chemists) or seek medical attention. If, after being in the woods, you find a bloody circular skin wound, slowly increasing in size, seek professional medical attention.
Sunstroke
Sunstroke can be prevented by wearing a hat, and sunglasses. Always keep a bottle of water with you, especially if you're in the wilderness and unlikely to come across drinking water. If you suspect sunstroke (feeling light-headed, headaches), you can prevent it from getting worse by drinking water and finding somewhere in the shade to sit and stay there, if possible.
Health when you get back home
If you have a fever, bowel problems or other physical complaints of an unknown nature after you return home (up to several months after your return home), contact your doctor and let him/her know you've been in Laos and inform them of the length of your stay and what you've done there.
Most provincial capitals have internet access, particularly those that a more popular with tourists. In Luang Prabang and Vientiane rates are usually very reasonable at about US$0.50 to US$1.50 per hour. In more remote towns where competition is low, rates are a fair bit higher at around US$3 to US$6 per hour. If you're looking to save a bit of money, it's best to save your emailing until you reach the larger towns and cities.
See also: International Telephone Calls
Country code: 856 (dial 00 first to dial out of the country).
There are plenty of public phone booths in Laos but these are pretty useless as phonecards are no longer sold and the technology is rather archaic. For long distance calls it's much better to use a post office or internet cafe.
Mobile phone users can use their own GSM mobile phone in Laos. Roaming tends to be expensive, so if you're planning on using your phone a fair bit it may well be worth buying a local SIM card and purchasing prepaid minutes. SIMs are normally around US$5 and both Lao Telecom and ETL have good network coverage.
For the best postal services, send your mail from Vientiane as the provinces are less reliable. If you're worried about sending home valuable items there is a Federal Express office inside the main post office in Vientiane.
This is version 52. Last edited at 23:01 on Sep 24, 09 by Hien (-2). 38 articles link to this page.
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