Montreal
Travel Guide > North America > Canada > Quebec > Montreal
Introduction
Montreal, the largest city in the French-speaking province of Quebec, provides a bridge between the cultures of Europe and the cultures of North America. It is a vibrant mix of French, English and immigrant cultures. Montreal is the party capital of Canada, and has the most fashionable and hip population. It also offers amazing historical and cultural sites, as well as the famous Montreal Smoked Meat sandwiches.
Neighbourhoods
- Downtown
- Old Montreal
- Mount Royal
- Little Italy
- Quartier Latin
- The Village
- St. Michel/Villeray
- Little Burgandy
- Hochelaga
- Le Plateau
Sights and Activities
Events and Festivals
- Montreal's Just for Laughs (Juste Pour Rire) brings comedic talent from around the world for a few weeks of hilarity in July.
- Montreal International Jazz Festival, the largest jazz festival in the world, is held in the summer season, usually at the beginning of July.
- Formula One Canadian Grand Prix
Weather
The coldest month of the year is January which has an average daily temperature of -10.4 °C, though because of "wind chill," it can fee much colder. The "wind chill" will be included in the weather forecast, indicating how cold it feels outside. The warmest month is July, which has an average daily high of 26.3 °C; lower night-time temperatures make the average 20.9 °C. High humidity is common in the summer. In spring and autumn, rainfall averages between 55 and 94 millimetres (2.2 and 3.7 in) a month. Some snow in spring and autumn is normal. Similarly, late heat waves as well as "Indian summers" are a regular feature of the climate.
Information on weather norms in Montreal can be found at the Environment Canada website at Montreal Weather Averages.
Getting There
By Plane
Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport (airport code: YUL), formerly called Dorval Airport - a name still in use by many locals, in the City of Dorval serves all international and domestic passenger traffic. Trudeau airport is approximately 20 km from downtown Montreal.
From the airport to downtown, the Montreal public transportation service provides bus service from the airport on route 204. The fare is $2.75. Take the eastbound bus to Dorval Circle, then the 211 to Lionel-Groulx Metro station. Check the STM website for 204 route information.
For more information on the airport, check out the Airports of Montreal homepage.
By Train
Most intercity trains will arrive at Gare Central (Central Station), downtown. Services include the Via Rail service between Windsor and Quebec City, including trains from Toronto, and service from Ottawa. Amtrak provides service to and from New York.
The Gare Central is connected to the Montreal Metro system, providing easy links to spots in the city.
By Car
By Bus
By Boat
Getting Around
By Public Transit
The STM operates buses and subway (Metro) as well as commuter trains within Montreal. The subway is called the Metro, and has 68 stations and four lines, covering most of the downtown core and beyond. Cost for buses or metro is $2.75, and requires exact change, or tickets. Tickets can provide a substantial savings, as 6 tickets cost $11.75 - for a ride rate of $1.96 per ride. Weekly and monthly passes are available for $19.00 and $65.00 respectively. Weekly passes run from Monday to Sunday. Monthly passes are good from the 1st of the month until the last day.
There is also a tourist card that allows unlimited access to the bus and metro network for one day for $9.00 or three consecutive days for $17.00. The cards can be purchased in advance, and then you just scratch off the day that you want to use the card. Get more information from the Tourist card information from the STM website.
When boarding buses, board by the front door and pay your fare in cash or ticket, or show the driver your pass. When exiting, exit by any door. Travellers will enter the Metro stations and pay the fare prior to descending to the Metro station. No proof of payment is required on exiting.
If travelling by different bus routes, or moving from the bus to the Metro or Metro to bus, you will need a transfer. A transfer is a temporary transit voucher, valid for 90 minutes, entitling a passenger to board more than one STM vehicle in order to complete a trip. However, it does not allow its holder to carry out a return trip or temporarily interrupt their trip to resume it later on the same bus route. Obtain a transfer when paying your fare initially.
One of the interesting things about the STM Metro is that each station was designed by a different architect, and Montreal takes much pride in both the architecture and art within the stations. Read more about the art in the Metro at the STM Art page.
By Car
People drive on the right side of the road. Speed limits in Montreal is 50 km/h unless otherwise posted. Right turn on red lights is not allowed.
By Foot
By Bike
Eat
Montreal is a culinary-lover's delight. From local fares like poutine (french fries [preferrably home-cut], curd cheese, and gravy) to dining out at the Ritz, Montreal offers something for everyone's plate.
Montreal Eatery Icons
With bars that stay open till 3 a.m., Montreal's streets are filled with hungry post-partiers weekdays and weekends alike. Although many turn to traditional fast-food fare, Montreal's greasy-spoon staples often have line-ups that stretch outside - even at 4 in the morning. Among the favourites:
Schwartz's - home of the best smoked meat on the island, located on St. Laurent street. Don't be fooled by its delicatessen interior and cracked plastic stools - Schwartz's serves up mile-high sandwhiches with lots of peppery bits and a dollop of mustard. Try the strawberry cheesecake - as close to new York as you can get.
Montreal Pool Room - for hot-dogs steamé and home-made fries, located on St. Laurent street. The floor is orignal - cracked and caked from almost a century of salt-crusted boots. A little dark and a little dingy, the Pool Room serves up what are arguably known as the best hot dogs. Go for the food and say for the pool - and still have money for the taxi ride home.
La Belle Province - or The Beautiful Province, more commonly called "La Belle Pro". You'll find one almost everywhere you turn, where paper-capped workers put hot dogs, poutine, fries, souvlaki, hamburgers "all dress'", pogos, and more together in an absolute frenzy. Take a quick look at the yellowed menu and get in line - your dinner will be served up on a plastic tray before you even get out your wallet.
Little Italy
Located on St. Laurent just south of Jean-Talon, Little Italy is the heart and soul of Montreal's extensive Italian community. Along with the all-season Jean-Talon Market and Milano's Italian Grocery, this part of the island offers up traditional Italian fare - sometimes the only place an authentic Italian will venture to eat Italian food that isn't mama's cooking. Some prima choices:
Pizza Napoletana - where strangers happily share tables, on Mozart street. Reserve early or wait a long time in line for some of the most excellent pizza and pasta in the city. Bring your own wine and get to know your neighbours at a packed, one-end-of-the-room-to-the-other table. Desserts offer up Tartufo and almond cake, among other treats.
Casa Napoli - the godfather of St. Laurent street, on St. Laurent. Stone walls and stone-faced waiters give Casa Napoli a distinctly warm and cave-like Amalfi feel. Both the food and wine menus offer up delicious, expensive fare - well worth the price, if you're looking to indulge. The walls are lined with photos of celebs who've tasted the wares - from Stalone to Pacino and more.
Rugantino - affordable and incomparably delicious, on St. Laurent at St. Viateur. Daily table d'hôte menus give you a vast choice of entrées, main meals and desserts - and the chef is always ready to tweak this and switch that to suit your fancy. The affordable wine list and classic white-table-cloth décor add to the illusion that you're a big spender, but the bill will say otherwise.
Sushi
Montrealers' eclectic tastes extend to sushi of all kinds - from 5-star luxury to all-you-can eat sushi buffets. Located here and there throughout the city, sushi bars cater to everyone with menus that usually include terriyaki options for non-believers.
Sho-dan - where they know your name if you go twice, on Metcalf at de Maisonneuve. Along sashimi, sushi and traditional maki rolls like California and the multi-coloured and multi-layered Rainbow, Shodan has an additional menu of house specialties, including Sushi Pizza and Romeo and Juliet - made with strawberries and blueberries and covered in a creamy honey sauce. Ask about new sushis not on the menu, or saved for regulars - always a nice surprise. It's all white tablecloths and napkins, but the staff are friendly and casual.
Maiko - traditional sushi in trendy Outremont, on Bernard at Parc. Don't let the fish tanks fool you - the sushi here is fresh, unique and made right at the bar. Try a fried-chicken cone or one of many house specialties - or opt for the tâble d'hôte and try a little of everything. Book the knees-bent-under-the-table room with rice-paper doors to get away from the Saturday-night crowds.
Sushi Mou-shi - all you can eat and bring your own wine, on Decarie. Start with the miso soup and order rounds all day long. It's a popular place and you'll wait between courses on the weekends, but take your pick and keep them coming - all for the one price. Nothing fancy, but very decent, fresh sushi with seaweed that's crispy. And, it bears saying again, all for the one price.
Outremont
Bernard and Laurier streets offer up some of the trendier, more upscale restaurants around. From French to fusion to Brazilian and steak-frites, Outremont will make the extra you spend well worth the investment. Be sure to stop by Bilboquet on Bernard, if you still have room, for the best ice cream around - made in-house with real inredients (no syrups here) by the resident artisan glacier and offered in lord-knows-how-many flavours and counting.
Paris-Beurre - a Parisian Bistro, on Van Horne. Classic French fare served up in traditional sauces - decadent from start to finish. Sample the rabbit, duck, steak bavette, foie gras and more - and leave the tiniest bit of room for dessert. Top it all off with your pick from the wine list and le tour est joué.
La Croissanterie Figaro - the genuine thing, on Hutchison at Fairmont. Typical Parisian tables and chairs, like old sewing tables with classic weaved benches, fill the inside - and spill out onto the sidewalk in the summer. The decor is so Parisian you'd swear you're right there - wood panelling, posters, big brass espresso machines, an enormous oven - the whole bit. Choose a simple sandwhich or an eclectic salad - or go for their famous croissants, including the melt-on-your-plate chocolate-rum concoction. Perfect with a perfectly made cappucino or espresso.
Senzala - a bit of Brazil, on Bernard (also on de la Roche). With a cosy main dining room and a candle-lit terrace in the summer, Senzala offers tasty Brazilian plates with ingredients to tempt your palate and your vocabulary. Opt for the Bobo de Camarao (shrimp and manioc with coco milk) or the Feijoada (beef, pork and sausage stewed with black beans, garlic and spices) - or a meal made with traditional yucca. Weekends also feature unique breakfasts that will tide you over till supper.
Plateau
The trendy place for new-generation hippies, the Plateau offers everything from tapas bars to beer restaurants to French cuisine, Portuguese restaurants, tea rooms, and more. Walk up and down St. Denis - with a stop along Mount Royal - to take in a little of this and a dash of that.
L'Express - look for the name in tiles on the sidewalk, on St. Denis. Arguably the place to eat in the Plateau, l'Express offers up French cuising with a twist. Try an entrée of bone marrow with coarse sea salt, then head on to ravioli maison, duck breast with chanterelles, or a simple croque monsieur. Sit at the bar and watch the room behind you in the vast mirror.
Bière et Compagnie - where the beer menu's bigger than the food menu, on St. Denis at Marie-Anne. Give yourself 15 minutes to get to know the beer menu, where you'll find selections from around the world on tap or bottled. Then pick one of the famous moules-frites (mussles and fries), with your choice of home-made mayo. Or opt for one of the many meals flavoured with beer from the extensive bar. Lounge music, cathedral ceilings and remnants of towering church windows give the place a gothic feel to go with the dark and delicious menu.
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