Montserrat

Introduction

Coastal landscape

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Volcanic eruptions on the pristine Caribbean island of Montserrat began in 1995 and have continued with brutal frequency. Two thirds of the population have up-and-gone and the capital city, Plymouth, was abandoned shortly before being completely destroyed. All in all, it was a pretty devastating mess, but the island slowly is moving forwards again.

The north side of the island, the safe side, is where the population is now centered. In some ways it resembles your average Caribbean island; that is, except for the ash rain that broods darkly in the sky occasionally. For this reason, we don't recommend going to Montserrat if you are looking for quiet times by beautiful beaches. There are other places for that. Montserrat is a chilling exploration of the destructive powers of nature. It may well be one of the Caribbean's most interesting destinations, just because of the lack of beaches.

Brief History

Montserrat was populated by Arawak and Carib people when it was claimed by Christopher Columbus on his second voyage for Spain in 1493, naming the island Santa María de Montserrate, after the Blessed Virgin of the Monastery of Montserrat. The island fell under English control in 1632 when a group of Irish suffering anti-Catholic violence in Nevis, many of whom had been forcibly removed from Ireland as indentured servants, settled there. In 1782, during the American Revolutionary War, Montserrat was briefly captured by France. It was returned to the United Kingdom under the Treaty of Paris which ended that conflict. A failed slave uprising on 17 March 1798 led to Montserrat becoming one of a few places in the world that celebrates St Patrick's Day as a public holiday. Slavery was abolished in Montserrat in 1834.
From 1871 to 1958 Montserrat was administered as part of the Federal Colony of the Leeward Islands, becoming a province of the short-lived West Indies Federation from 1958 to 1962. In 1979, Beatles producer George Martin’s AIR Studios Montserrat opened and the island attracted world-famous musicians who came to record in the peace and quiet and lush tropical surroundings of Montserrat.
The last decade of the 20th century, however, brought two events which devastated the island. On September 17, 1989, the Category 5 Hurricane Hugo struck Montserrat with sustained winds of over 250 kilometres per hour, damaging over 90 percent of the structures on the island. AIR Studios closed, and the tourist trade upon which the island depended was nearly wiped out. Within a few years, however, the island had recovered considerably - only to be struck again by disaster.
In July 1995, Montserrat's Soufriere Hills volcano, dormant throughout recorded history, rumbled to life and began an eruption which eventually buried the island's capital, Plymouth, in more than 12 metres of mud, destroyed its airport and docking facilities, and rendered the southern half of the island uninhabitable. Following the destruction of Plymouth, more than half of the population left the island due to the economic disruption and lack of housing. After a period of regular eruptive events during the late 1990s, including one on June 25, 1997 in which 19 people died when they were overtaken by a pyroclastic flow, the volcano's activity in recent years has been confined mostly to infrequent ventings of ash into the uninhabited areas in the south. However, this ash venting does occasionally extend into the populated areas of the northern and western parts of the island. The southern part of the island has been evacuated and visits are severely restricted.
Today most of Montserrat remains lush and green. A new airport at Geralds in the north (renamed the John A. Osborne International Airport in 2008) was opened officially by Princess Anne, the Princess Royal in February 2005, and received its first commercial flights on July 11, 2005. Docking facilities are in place at Little Bay, where the new capital is being constructed. The people of Montserrat were granted full residency rights in the United Kingdom in 1998, and citizenship was granted in 2002.

Geography

Parishes

Montserrat is made up of 3 parishes:

• Saint Anthony Parish
• Saint Georges Parish
• Saint Peter Parish

Towns

• Plymouth (Montserrat) is the official capital of Montserrat. The city has been abandoned since 1995, when the nearby Soufrière Hills volcano erupted. In 1997, lava flows destroyed about 80% of the city.
• Brades is the de facto capital and has a population of about 1,000 people.

Sights and Activities

Volcano Viewing

Volcano viewing is one of the big activities now in Montserrat, because it is one of the few places in the world where travellers can see an active volcano and its destructive power. Although it is not possible to visit the Exclusion Zone, which covers the entire south eastern half of the island, including the capital of Plymouth and an additional four kilometres off the shore, it is possible to see it from a distance. Some say the views of seeing a city slowly being engulfed every year more and more by mud and ash can be intense. Some of the best places for viewing are:

• Richmond Hill - When this hill is open it is possible to get clear views of the capital.
• Jack Boy Hill - Located in the north eastern area of the island and gives good views of the Exclusion Zone including the old airport, an old estate house and a few destroyed villages.

Montserrat Volcano Observatory

The Soufrière Hills Volcano has to be constantly monitored and the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO) does that in the town of Flemmings. The MVO provides up to date information on the volcano to the general public. There is also the Interpretation Centre, inside the MVO, that has exhibits with videos, touch screen computers, artefacts and posters that explain the geology of the area. They also explain how scientists monitor the seismic activity, gas emissions, ground deformation and environmental impacts caused by the volcano. The center is open from 10:15 am to 3:00 pm Monday to Thursday.

Diving

Montserrat has some amazing diving (and snorkelling for that matter of course). The volcanic activity that has left the southern half of the island un-inhabitable has made the coral strong. The underwater life has become very powerful in the last few years and there is diving to be found at all different experience levels. Another interesting diving experience is actually seeing the affects of the volcanic activity and pyroclastic flows have underwater. The main dive areas are from Old Road Bluff in the west all the way to North West Bluff, which is around the northern shore, towards Hell's Gate in the north-eastern corner. Then also along the eastern shore towards the border of the Volcanic Maritime Exclusion Zone.

Dive Sites

• Lime Kiln Bay - The southernmost dive site with shallow ledges that go to about 15 metres deep. There are also some nice boulders that are densely covered with sea life
• Runaway Ghaut to Woodlands Bay - There are some very nice reefs along this shore and a cave to explore.
• Bunkum Bay and Soldiers Ghaut - This interesting reef is on a shelf slope that has a depth of 27 to 42 metres. There are also some other reefs under the cliffs. This is a good area for snorkeling
• Carr's Bay - Located in the northern area of the island, this is a good place for shore dives because of some very nice boulders covered in sea life
• Potato Hill - Although damaged during Hurricane Luis, this is still a pretty good dive site
• Rendezvous Bay - A great diving and snorkeling location. Another highlight is the dive site is near a cave that is full of fruit bats.

Dive Shops

• The Green Monkey Inn and Dive Shop
• Sea Wolf Diving School

Other Sights and Activities

• Hiking - Go on hikes that suit any level in the jungle of the island.
• Montserrat National Trust - Go bird watching with this nice group for $25 (US) per person.
• Biking - There are many great biking trails around the island. Contact groups like Gingerbread Hill or email Imagine Peace Bicycle Shop at ghbikes@hotmail.com to rent a bike.
• Darwin Centre Hills Project - Learn more about the natural environment of the island at this centre.

Events and Festivals

• Annual Volcano Half-Marathon & Fun Run/Walk - November
• Calabash Festival - July

Weather

Montserrat has a hot and humid tropical climate with average daytime temperatures between 28 °C and 30 °C and average nights around 23 °C. Most rain falls between June and October with a change of hurricanes from August onwards. Therefore, the drier (and slightly cooler) December to April period is the best time to visit weatherwise. Unfortunately prices rise sharply during this period and the months of November and May still have good weather. So budgetwise these latter months may be a good option as well.

Getting there

By Plane

Gerald's Airport (MNI) is a small international airport that opened in 2005 to replace the old airport which was destroyed in the eruption of 1997. Currently the only regular flights are:

• Carib Aviation which flies to Antigua
• Windward Islands Airways (Winair) which flies to Saint Martin and Saint Barthélemy
• Trans Anguilla which flies to Anguilla

From the 1st of June 2009, local Montserrat Airways Limited is going to operate flights with small 9-seater planes to and from Antigua and probably later on to islands like Guadeloupe, Saint Kitts and Nevis.

By Boat

The MV Fjortof is operated by Twin Islands Ferry Service Ltd (TIFS) and commenced regular ferry services to Montserrat from Antigua in December 2009, with a one-way trip time of approximately 90 minutes. The fares for the ferry service are EC$125.00 for a one-way-trip, EC$250.00 for an adult return trip and children under 12 pay EC$120 (US$1 = EC$2.65). Each passenger is allowed 2 pieces of baggage free of charge and any additional baggage is charged at EC $50.00 per piece.
No advance ticketing is required, as travelers can purchase their tickets upon check-in. To facilitate ticketing, check-in and other clearances at the point of sale at the ports, passengers are asked to check in 90 minutes in advance when travelling from Antigua and 60 minutes before the scheduled time for departure in Montserrat. In order to ensure continuity of service during the busy upcoming winter season, TIFS will have a backup ferry available to provide cover as may be required.
Travellers coming to Montserrat for the winter 2010-2011 period will benefit significantly from an expanded ferry service to the island from Antigua. From December 1st, 2010, the MV Fjortof ferry will operate the following schedule:

• Monday: two departures from Antigua (8:00am and 4:30pm) and one from Montserrat (3:00pm)
• Tuesday: two departures from Montserrat (6:30am and 7:15pm) and one from Antigua (5:30pm)
• Wednesday: one departures from Antigua (5:30pm)
• Thursday: two departures from Montserrat (6:30am and 2:30pm) and one from Antigua (8:30am)
• Friday: two departures from Antigua (8:00am and 5:30pm) and one from Montserrat (3:00pm)
• Saturday: two departures from Montserrat (7:00am and 7:15pm) and one from Antigua (5:30pm)
• Sunday: no services.

For further information on the service contact Twin Islands Ferry Service Ltd by phone at (268) 464 8474 or email tifs.antigua@gmail.com. Additional information on the ferry service, updates, as well as general tourism information can be found at Visit Montserrat.

Getting Around

Since years, the southern part of Montserrat has been off limits for travellers. Only scientists and other people with special permission can go into the exclusion zone. There used to be a zone which you could only enter at daylight, but even this small transition zone has been closed. There are good views however at the volcano and the former capital, Plymouth, from several places. Also, the former airport is viewable from a hilltop.

By Car

Montserrat has narrow and hilly roads, but in a good condition. Distances are small but still renting a car for a day or two is a great decision and you won't have to rely on public transport or tours. Driving is on the left.
Bikes are also available if you feel active.

By Bus

Minivans provide the bus service around the island. There is a fixed prices no matter how long you stay in the bus.
Although there are no timetables or official stops, you can flag one down and leave the bus anywhere you like.
Taxis have fixed rates as well, albeit much higher, and they can double as tour guides as well.

By Boat

Only be chartered yachts from Littel Bay.

Red Tape

Visa requirements are the same as for the United Kingdom.

Money

See also Money Matters

The currency of Montserrat is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar, or EC$. It has existed since 1965 and is used by 7 other states of the Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States as well. Only the British Virgin Islands (the nineth member) doesn't use it, but uses the US$ instead. The EC$ is subdivided into 100 cents and has been pegged to the United States dollar at US$1 = EC$2.7 since 1976. The EC$ comes in coins of 1, 2, 5, 10 and 25 cents and a coins of 1 dollar. There are notes of 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 dollar.

Work

Study

Language

Eat

Sleep

Montserrat isn't your typical Caribbean beach destinations, and few luxurious or all-inclusive style resorts exist. Also, there aren't that many beaches. Nature and activities are of more importance on Montserrat. Still, the island has a growing amount of great hotels, guesthouses and smaller places, sometimes with a pool and great views.
Villa rental for long term stays is popular as well. All of them are located in the northern half of the island, as the southern part is off limits since the volcanic eruption of 1997.

• Tropical Mansion Suites - one of the more luxurious hotels
• Montserrat Enterprises - Villa rental, great for long stays
• Montserrat Villas
• Tradewinds Montserrat - Villas
• Barefoot Villa
• Cassava Cottage
• Min-y-Don - private villa
• Nice Diggs Villas
• Bunkum Beach Guest House
• Erindell Villa Guesthouse
• Essence Guesthouse
• Gingerbread Hill - including budget rooms, which are better value than the hostel
• Hotrock Hostel - the only hostel on the island, with great deals.
• Sark Cottage - apartments
• The Holt - apartments
• Turtle Bay Apartments

Drink

Health

See also Travel Health

There are no vaccinations legally required to travel to Montserrat. There is one exception though. You need a yellow fever vaccination if you have travelled to a country (7 days or less before entering Montserrat) where that disease is widely prevalent.

It's a good thing to get your vaccinations in order before travelling to Montserrat. The general vaccination against Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio (DTP) is recommended. Also a hepatitis A vaccination is recommended and vaccination against hepatitis B and typhoid are also sometimes recommended for stays longer than 3 months.

Dengue sometimes occurs as well. There is no vaccination, so buy mosquito repellent (preferably with 50% DEET), and sleep under a net. Also wear long sleeves if possible.

Finally, other possible health issues include diarrhea and other general travellers' diseases like motion sickness. Watch what you eat and drink and in case you get it, drink plenty of fluids (to prevent dehydration) and bring ORS.

Safety

See also Travel Safety

Montserrat is a very safe island, and crime against people, let alone travellers, is almost unheard of. The main concern probably is driving along the winding and narrow roads and the potential danger of the volcano.

Keep Connected

Internet

Phone

See also International Telephone Calls

Post

External Links

• Official Tourism Website - with excellent regular newsletters and weekend updates