Travel Guide > Europe > Italy > Naples
Naples is one of those places that visitors tend to love or loathe. The city is packed and noisy. Like the rest of southern Italy, it is much poorer than the north, and the poverty is evident. The local Mafia, the Camorra, monopolise garbage collection here (and much else, including the agricultural markets), and as a result the city has a continuing garbage crisis that has to be seen to be believed. Crossing the road is a dangerous sport. To some, to quote the punning title of a recent Italian best-seller, it is Gomorrah.
And yet, and yet... Naples is like a concentrated Italy. The food and drink are fantastic. The climate is benign. It's much cheaper than the north. Regardless of their occupations, the people are all thespians - everything is usually wonderful or terrible - and they are also fatalistic, and believe in living life by the day. The city has a long history - Naples was centuries old when the Romans arrived - and much of it is on show. It has the best-preserved ancient ruins in Europe, in Pompeii and Herculaneum, one of the best museums in Italy, a great gallery, a Bourbon palace and an opera house.
Napels has a typical Mediterranean climate with generally warm sunny and dry summers and mild but wet winters.
Summermonths are from June to September when average daytime temperatures are between 26 and 29 degrees Celsius, though occasionally hitting 36 or 37 degrees. Nights average a pleasant 18 degrees. Wintermonths last from December to February with daytime temperatures between 12 and 14 degrees Celsius and nights around 5 degrees. Most of the precipitation falls between October and February with a peak in November and December. June to August only have a couple of days with some showers, while in winter there is some rain almost every other day. Snow is rare, so is frost, though -4 degrees Celsius has been measured in the months of December to March at night.
Naples International Airport (NAP) Is the main airport for the Naples area and has 2 terminals. Terminal 1 is the main terminal for travellers and is operated by a British Airport Company. Almost all major cities in Italy is served while many major European cities also have direct service from NAP. It is very easy to get to and from the airport:
The main station is Piazza Garibaldi Station. Piazza Garibaldi is not a place to linger, especially if you are carrying bags.
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Don't even think about driving any vehicle smaller than a tank in Naples. This is not a joke. Naples is famous even in Italy for its crazy driving. Not a single vehicle in the city is undented. One way streets aren't one way; lights are ignored; pavements are widely used to drive on, especially by mopeds. Unless you have been trained for it since childhood, there's no point in trying.
You can buy Unico Campania tickets for public transport in the city and its regions. Tickets are sold by journey, by day or by longer periods. These are sold at some stations, tobacconists etc. The shortest ticket costs a euro and allows you to travel for up to an hour.
Buses are not bad if you can find one and get on one; they are not very frequent. They are the best way to get to Capodimonte. The central bus station is outside Piazza Garibaldi station.
Naples is hilly. The best way to get to and from the district of Vomero is by funicular railway. It's worth the journey for the views alone.
There are currently two underground lines. They are not very useful if you are based in the centre. More are being built.
The best way to get to the ancient sites of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Oplontis is by railway, the Circumvesuviana: http://www.vesuviana.it/. There is more than one line but trains to Sorrento always go the right way. Get off at Pompei Scavi for Pompeii, Ercolano for Herculaneum and Torre Annunziata for Oplontis.
Since vehicles, and mopeds in particular, use pavements to drive on, you need to have your wits about you. You also take your life into your hands whenever you cross a road. The key to this is to approach it as if you were driving: signal your intentions and act predictably. Whatever you do, don't stop.
That said, the historical centre of Naples really has to be seen on foot.
See comments on driving, above, and then multiply the idiocy factor by 100.
Naples is a gastronomic delight. It is extremely hard to get anything but a good meal, wherever you go, from the meanest café to the poshest restaurant. Neapolitan cooking tends towards the simple: when the ingredients you have to play with are of celestial quality, there's little point in doing much to them. The tomatoes around Naples may be the best in the world, so spaghetti al pomodoro doesn't need anything else. Good mozzarella is made nearby (although it may be full of dioxins, as a result of one of the region's many garbage scandals); so the simplest Neapolitan pizza is just tomato and mozzarella.
Naples is the home of pizza, and don't let a Roman or an American tell you otherwise. Neapolitans are serious about it, and its quality is regulated. To get a 'DOC' (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) label, a pizza must be absolutely fresh, must be made from directly-sourced products, made from a certain kind of dough, must be cooked in a wood-fired oven at a very high temperature, etc. These are worth travelling a long way to experience. While pizzas come in all varieties, there are only two real classics: Marinara and Margherita.
The Neapolitans are serious about their coffee, and this may be why the coffee in Naples has a claim to be the best in Italy. While anyone can stuff some ground coffee into a coffee machine and make an espresso, only an artist decides how finely to grind the coffee beans according to the atmospheric conditions and the time of day. But that's what a decent Neapolitan barista will do.
A tip: order a cappuccino with a croissant (cornetto) for breakfast, but make it your last of the day. After that, drink espresso, or, if you must have milk, an espresso macchiato (with a blob of foam on the top). And drink it quickly.To a Neapolitan, and indeed to an Italian, drinking cappuccino all day is a tad barbaric.
The lemon liqueur known as limoncello is associated with Campania, the region in which Naples lies. Much of it is made down the coast in Sorrento, or in the Bay of Naples on Capri. It is not a complicated drink, and is made with sugar, alcohol and lemon zest. But it is (dangerously) lovely, and that is presumably because the lemons in Campania, and in Sicily for that matter, are plump and relatively sweet.
There are variants on the limoncello theme, but they are less common. Fragolino is a strawberry liqueur. Rucolino is made from rocket (rucola) and is not wholly to this reviewer's taste. One convenient place to pick up all these liqueurs is Limonè, next door to Napoli Sotterranea, just off Piazza San Gaetano and via Tribunali, in the heart of Spaccanapoli. They make the liqueurs themselves.
| Property | Address | Type | Popularity |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6 small rooms | Via Diodato 18, Naples | Hostel | 89 |
| Albergo La Vigna | Via Principessa Margherita, 46 %DRESS2%% | Hotel | - |
| Albergo Villa Medici *** | Via Bagnoli 550 | Hotel | - |
| Alloggio dei Vassalli & Day Spa | Via Donnalbina, 56 Napoli | Guesthouse | - |
| alloggio suite del conte | via salaiolo n27 | Hotel | - |
| Amedeo | Via Francesco Crispi 26 | Guesthouse | - |
| Appartamento Spagnolo | Via Nuova S. Maria Ognibene 30 | Apartment | 57 |
| Areamare | Viale Gramsci n°30 | Guesthouse | 83 |
| Art Suite Principe Umberto | Piazza Principe Umberto n. 35 | Guesthouse | 75 |
| B&B Astra | Vico Campagnari 21 | Guesthouse | 68 |
| B&B Bonapace Porta Nolana | via S. Cosmo Fuori Porta Nolana, 4 | Guesthouse | 83 |
| B&B Borgo Marinaro | Via G.Matteotti, 18 80078 Pozzuoli (NA) | Guesthouse | - |
| B&B Carafa Suite | Piazzetta Arcangelo Scacchi 7 Naples | Guesthouse | 82 |
| B&B Casa Tonia | C.so Vittorio Emanuele 114 | Guesthouse | - |
| B&B Chiaia | Riviera di Chiaia Palasciano 17 | Guesthouse | - |
| B&B Cinquestelle | Via Bari n°10 | Guesthouse | 87 |
| B&B Conte Cavour | Piazza Cavour, 152 | Guesthouse | - |
| B&B Delle Palme | Vico Vetriera,15 | Guesthouse | 43 |
| B&B Eduardo | Naples Naples | Guesthouse | - |
| B&B Farnese | P.zza Cavour, 135 Napoli | Guesthouse | 72 |
| B&B Firenze 32 | Via Firenze 32 | Guesthouse | 87 |
| B&B I 34 Turchi | Via Marino Turchi 34 | Apartment | 100 |
| B&B La Bouganville | Via Alessandro Manzoni, 155 | Guesthouse | - |
| B&B Latt' e Liett' | Via Melisurgo 4 | Guesthouse | 93 |
| B&B Mergellina | Via croce Rossa a Chiaia 4 | Guesthouse | 80 |
| B&B Miseria e Nobiltá | Via Sant'anna dei Lombardi, 5 Naples | Guesthouse | 90 |
| B&B Morelli 49 | Via Domenico Morelli 49 | Guesthouse | 79 |
| B&B Posillipo | Via Posillipo 410 | Guesthouse | - |
| B&B Sant'Elmo | Vico S.Elmo, 8 | Guesthouse | 100 |
| BB Soriano 44 | Via San Domenico Soriano 44 | Guesthouse | - |
| Bed & Bed Napoli | via camillo pellegrino 9 Napoli | Apartment | - |
| Bed & Breakfast dei Decumani | Via Duomo, 187 Naples | Guesthouse | - |
| Bed & Breakfast I Colori di Napoli | Via San Arcangelo a Baiano 24 | Guesthouse | 80 |
| Bed & Breakfast Vesuvio Suite | Via Firenze 32 | Guesthouse | 75 |
| Bed & Breakfast Vittoria | Via Giulio Cesare 125 Naples | Guesthouse | - |
| Bellini | Via Costantinopoli 104 | Apartment | - |
| Bonapace B&B Mergellina | Viale Maria Cristina di Savoia n.18 Mergellina | Guesthouse | - |
| Borgo Antico | Piazza Mercato 340 | Hotel | - |
| Buonanotte & Buongiorno | Corso Vittorio Emanuele 544/9 Naples | Guesthouse | 93 |
| Camera Con Vista | Vico II della Quercia 4 Via Sant'Anna dei Lombardi 5 | Apartment | - |
| Cappella Vecchia 11 B&B | V.co S.M. a Cappella Vecchia 11 Piazza dei Martiri | Guesthouse | - |
| Casa 12 | Corso Vittorio Emanuele 168 Naples | Guesthouse | - |
| Casa del Monacone | Via Sanità, 124 Naples | Guesthouse | - |
| Casa del Sole | Via Duca Ferrante della Marra | Guesthouse | - |
| Casa Mira Napoli | Via Giordano Bruno N 169 Napoli Italy | Guesthouse | - |
| Casagirasole | Via Bisignano 59 | Apartment | - |
| Chapada Mergellina | Corso Vittorio Emanuele 18 | Guesthouse | - |
| Clarean Hotel | piazza Garibaldi,49 | Hotel | - |
| Corso Vittorio Emanuele | Corso Vittorio Emanuele s/n Call Before your arrival to arrange key pickup. | Apartment | - |
| Decumani Hotel de Charme | Via san Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli , 15 | Hotel | - |
| Dreaming Naples | Via Tommaso Caravita, 14 | Guesthouse | 80 |
| Executive Hotel Naples | Via del Cerriglio, 10 | Hotel | - |
| Fabric Hostel & Club | Via Bellucci Sessa 22 Portici | Hostel | 85 |
| Giovanni's Home | Via sapienza 43 | Hostel | 97 |
| Grand Hotel Europa Naples | Corso Merionale 14 | Hotel | - |
| Grand Hotel Sant' Angelo | Piazza Garibaldi, 60/63 | Hotel | - |
| Grifeo | Emanuele street 2 | Apartment | - |
| Guesthouse Elia | via Torino 53 | Guesthouse | 55 |
| Gymnasium Hotel | Corso Umberto I | Hotel | 92 |
| Hostel & Hotel Bella Capri | Via Melisurgo 4 | Hostel | 86 |
| Hostel of the Sun | Via Melisurgo 15 | Hostel | 92 |
| Hostel Pensione Mancini | Via P.S. Mancini, 33 | Hostel | 74 |
| Hostel Soggiorno Imperia | piazza miraglia 386 Naples | Hostel | 80 |
| Hotel San Paolo | Via Terracina 159 | Hotel | 67 |
| Hotel Beauty Farm Villa Luisa | Via Tripergola 50 | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Casanova | Via Venezia n°2 Corso Garibaldi n°333 | Hotel | 71 |
| Hotel Cavour | Piazza Garibaldi, 32 | Hotel | 78 |
| Hotel D' Anna | Corso A. Lucci 199 - 80142 Naples | Hotel | 67 |
| Hotel de la Ville | Vico Ferrovia n°6 | Hotel | 66 |
| Hotel del Real Orto Botanico | Via Foria n. 192 | Hotel | - |
| Hotel des Artistes Naples | Via Duomo, 61 | Hotel | 81 |
| Hotel Dimora Sant'Eligio | via Bernardino Rota, 36/38 Napoli | Hotel | 20 |
| Hotel Duomo | Via Duomo 228 | Hotel | 72 |
| Hotel Europeo | Via Mezzocannone 109/C | Hotel | 76 |
| Hotel Garden Napoli | Corso Garibaldi 92 80142 | Hotel | 72 |
| Hotel Garibaldi | Via P. S. Mancini 11 | Hotel | 70 |
| Hotel Ginevra | Via Genova, 116 | Hotel | 74 |
| Hotel Ideal | Piazza Garibaldi 99 | Hotel | 73 |
| Hotel Il Convento | Via Speranzella, 137/a | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Joyfull | Via Traccia a Poggioreale 663 | Hotel | 66 |
| Hotel Milton | Piazza Guglielmo Pepe, 14 | Hotel | 60 |
| Hotel Nettuno | Via Sedile di Porto, 9 | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Nuovo Rebecchino | Corso Garibaldi 356 | Hotel | 86 |
| Hotel Palace | Via Cesare Rosaroll, 11/15 | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Prati | Via Cesare Rosaroll, 4 angle P.Principe Umberto | Hotel | - |
| Hotel San Giorgio | Via Alessandro Poerio 9 | Hotel | - |
| Hotel san Pietro | Via San Pietro ad Aram, 18 | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Schilizzi | Via Matteo Schilizzi | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Siri | Via Nicola Mignogna 15 | Hotel | 69 |
| Hotel Speranza | Via Palermo 30/31-Naples | Hotel | 70 |
| Hotel Suite Esedra | Via Arnoldo Cantani | Hotel | - |
| Hotel Toledo | Via Montecalvario, 15 | Hotel | 83 |
| Hotel Viola | Via Palermo n.23 | Hotel | 57 |
| Hotel Zara | Via Firenze 81 | Hotel | 71 |
| I Duomi | Largo Paparelle 13 | Apartment | - |
| I Fiori di Napoli B&B | Via Francesco Girardi 92 | Guesthouse | 100 |
| I Vicoletti | Via S Domenico Soriano 46 | Guesthouse | 83 |
| I Visconti BB | Via Pasquale Scura, 77 80134 Napoli | Guesthouse | - |
| Il Giardino Segreto | via Foria 216 | Guesthouse | 87 |
| La Controra | Piazzetta Trinità alla Cesarea, 231 | Hostel | 90 |
| La Dimora dei Baroni | Via Francesco Caracciolo n.14 | Guesthouse | - |
| Landascape Petrarca | Via Petrarca N.1 | Guesthouse | - |
| Luna Caprese | Via Chiatamone 7 80121 - Napoli | Guesthouse | - |
| Maria Mari | Vico San Nicola alla Carità, 5 | Guesthouse | 93 |
| Masseria del Borro | Via Ventilabro, 67 - 80126 Napoli | Apartment | - |
| Mergellina B&B Naples | Via Michelangelo Schipa, 132 | Guesthouse | - |
| MH Design Hotel | Via Chiaia 245 | Hotel | 92 |
| Miradois | Salita Miradois, 46 - Napoli | Apartment | 84 |
| Morghen B&B | Via Morghen s/n | Guesthouse | - |
| Museum Hotel | Via Costantinopoli 130 | Hotel | 67 |
| My Seagull B&B | Vicoletto San Mandato, 25/C | Guesthouse | 100 |
| Napoli B&B Campagnari | Vico Campagnari 21 | Guesthouse | 76 |
| Napoli Centrale Hotel | Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 26 | Guesthouse | 78 |
| Napoli-Egiziaca Penthouse | Via Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone | Guesthouse | - |
| Napoliday B&B | Via S.M. Cappella Vecchia n.11 | Guesthouse | - |
| Oliverhouse | Via Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone 41 | Apartment | - |
| Palazzo Turchini | ViaMedina, 21/22 | Hotel | - |
| Piazza del Gesù House | Piazza del Gesù | Guesthouse | - |
| Reginella Residence | Via Toledo, 323 80132 | Guesthouse | 77 |
| Riviera281 B&B | Riviera di Chiaia, 281 | Guesthouse | - |
| Soggiorno Elia | via Torino 53, 80142 Naples | Guesthouse | 58 |
| Soggiorno Paradiso | Via Purgatorio ad Arco, 7 | Hotel | 78 |
| Suite Partenope | Piazza Pilastri,7 | Guesthouse | 74 |
| Terrace Naples | Luigia San Felice | Guesthouse | - |
| Toledo205 apartments | Via Toledo 205 | Apartment | 93 |
| Tribù Bed and Breakfast | Via Tribunali, 339, Napoli | Guesthouse | 97 |
| Trinita | Salita Trinita degli Sapgnoli s/n | Apartment | - |
| Villa Ocsia | Via Don morosini 89 San Giorgio a Cremano | Guesthouse | - |
| Villa San Gennariello B&B | Via Madonnelle 5 , Portici (Napoli) | Guesthouse | 97 |
| Welcome B&B | Via Giacinto Gigante 1/b | Guesthouse | - |
| Welcome Inn | Via Broggia, 3 | Hostel | 90 |
| YHA Ostello Mergellina | Salita della Grotta 23 | Hostel | 65 |
This is version 32. Last edited at 10:05 on Aug 18, 09 by Utrecht (+96). 22 articles link to this page.

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