Travel Guide > Africa > Somalia
For a lesson in what anarchy looks like, there’s no better destination than Somalia. If you are heavily armed or a real-life Jack Bauer, you should find yourself well-entertained here. For us ordinary folk, however, Somalia’s situation is far too dangerous. Wracked by civil war and famine, the country was dealt another harsh blow by the tsunami in late 2004. All in all, anarchy and extreme poverty make for a highly volatile situation. We don't recommend planning a trip there any time soon.
Four quasi-independent states (not internationally recognised) have formed on the territory of Somalia since late last century.
The rest of Somalia consists of the following regions, not all of which the government has much control.
If Las Geel was not situated in Somalia, it would probably be overrun by tourists and declared a World Heritage Site. But as it is located in Somaliland it is not. Still, it is one of the highlights of the country. You will find hundreds of magnificent neolithic rock art paintings which are in a perfect condition on the walls of several interconnected caves and shelters. Some of these rock art paintings are more than a metre in length and are exceptionally well preserved. For the next years or so Las Geel will definately remain a hidden gem, which is both a good thing as well as a shame.
Hargeisa is one of the safer places to visit and actually has a decent infrastructure for travellers as well, with hotels and restaurants, transport connections and a safe enough location to just walk around and soak up the atmosphere without a tourist in sight. Locals will definately want to meet you, talk with you and touch you, so be prepared. It's a bustling city without any real attraction but just adds to the charm of this city. The markets are probably the best site to visit with locals selling almost everything. Remember that your night out will be accompanied with 'chay' and not alcohol.
The road between this two bustling cities partly travels along the coastline which offers spectactular views. Both cities are relatively safe to visit and the area in between is as well. Try to travel during the day though, both for safety reasons as well as the views and landscape.
Somalia is a dry and hot country, with high humidity along the coastline.
Temperatures in the north are comparable with those found in for example the east of Ethiopia or in Djibouti.
Here, days average over 40 degrees Celsius from June to September and around 30 degrees from December to February. Nights are generally 10 degrees Celsius cooler. Temperatures can reach 50 degrees Celsius here, and along the coast, although a bit cooler, the high humidity makes life extremely unbearable these months.
There is little or no rainfall, only December to May might have some notable showers. In the rest of the country, most of the sparce and unreliable rain falls between April and September.
Temperatures to the south, both inland and along the coast are lower than the north. Along the coast, nights average between 23 and 26 degrees Celsius year round, days between 28 and 32 degrees Celsius. Rainfall averages around 300 to 500 mm a year, which is rather low for the position near the equator. Inland it is hotter during the day in summer, colder at night in winter. Rainfall is comparable but low.
Jubba Airways has a few international flights, mainly to the Middle East like Sjarjah, Dubai and Jeddah and to Djibouti as well. From Djibouti, Djibouti Airlines serves a few places in the north of the country as well. Few other connections exist with the ongoing unstable position in the country.
There are daily Toyota Landcruisers travelling between Djibouti City and Hargeisa in Somaliland, but it is a rough 20 hour ride at least, sometimes taking over two days. Crossing is at Loyaada. You are able to travel by your own car but it's not recommended.
From Jijiga in Ethiopia there is in fact regular bus traffic to the border town of Wajaale. taking about two hours. Get stamped out at the Ethiopian immigration office and cross into Somaliland and go to the immigration shack, where your passport will be stamped and your visa checked. From here, taxi's and minibuses go to Hargeisa (two hours). Expect a couple of checkpoints, but no hassles.
It won't come as a surprise that there are no international passenger services and due to safety reasons (piracy mainly) it's not advised to try your luck anyway getting here by any boat at all.
Jubba Airways flies between Hargeisa, Mogadishu and Bosaso.
If you want to travel outside the area around Hargeisa, for example to Berbera, you are recommended to get a car with a driver, self driving is not recommended. Traffic drives on the right and you need an international driving permit if you insist on driving yourself. Still, you really need a guide and it is safer as well.
It is not advised to drive anywhere outside Somaliland as it is dangerous and roads are in a desperate need of repair.
Several buses and minibuses travel the Hargeisa to Berbera route and a few other smaller places. Outside Somaliland though, services are almost non-existent due to the political state of anarchy.
Although there are several port, there are no regular passenger services between places and the waters around Somalia are prone to pirates.
There are separate visa regulations for Somaliland, Puntland and the remaining part of Somalia where Mogadishu is located. For the latter, a visa prior to arrival is required. For Puntland, you can get one upon arrival at the respective airport. For Somaliland (relatively safe, most visitors go here) you need to apply for a visa at one of the Somaliland Embassies though usually you can get one upon arrival at the airport or the main border crossings.
This is version 11. Last edited at 16:56 on Sep 14, 09 by Utrecht (+650). 9 articles link to this page.

Except where otherwise noted, content of this article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License