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Turkmenistan

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Quick Facts

Turkmenistan flag

Map of Turkmenistan

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Capital
Ashgabat
Population
4,776,000
Government
Republic
Religions
Islam, Christianity (Eastern Orthodox)
Languages
Turkmen, Russian, Uzbek
Calling Code
+993
Nationality
Turkmen
Local name
Türkmenistan

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Introduction

Fire crater

Fire crater

© All Rights Reserved FiColes

Turkmenistan is not your average holiday destination. For one, three quarters of it is covered by the Karakum desert, where predictably high temperatures are the order of the day. Second, its capital Ashgabat and other 'major' cities, are quite truly lacking in tourist attractions. The best tourist attraction (in the traditional sense) is Gaurdak, which, lying between the Uzbekistan border and the Amu-Darya River, is blessed with impressive scenery highlighted by deep gorges, waterfalls and caves, as well as a riveting collection of dinosaur footprints.

Turkmenistan is a unique destination for a unique visitor. The highlight here is the Turkmens' nomadic culture, which still survives today, albeit to a lesser extent since the Soviets took over. Traditional garb, intricately designed rugs and a strong tribal loyalty give the anthropologically-minded traveller a fascinating journey - if they can handle the heat.

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Brief History

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Geography

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Regions/Provinces

Turkmenistan is made up of 5 provinces and 1 independent city (the capital Ashgabat)

  • Ahal Province is in the country's south, bordering Iran and Afghanistan.
  • Balkan Province, in the west, is the most populous. It borders Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, the Caspian Sea, and Iran.
  • Daşoguz Province is a desertous province in the country's north, bordering Uzbekistan. It is home to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Kunya-Urgench.
  • Lebap Province is located in the northeast of the country, bordering Uzbekistan.
  • Mary Province borders Afghanistan in the country's south-east.

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Cities

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Sights and Activities

Kunya-Urgench

Minaret at Kone-Urgench

Minaret at Kone-Urgench

© All Rights Reserved ameurice

Another Central Asian highlight and also on the UNESCO list comprises the site of Kunya-Urgench, which is located in the northwest of Turkmenistan on the left bank of the Amu Daria River. It was the capital of the Khorezm region, which was part of the Achaemenid Empire. There are many monuments in the old town which date back from the 11th to 16th centuries. These monuments include a mosque, the gates of a caravanserai, fortresses, mausoleums and a 60-m high minaret.

Merv

Merv is one of the highlights of the country and in fact of Central Asia, being the oldest and best-preserved of the oasis-cities along the Silk Route. History dates back over 4000 years here and several of the of monuments are still visible, particularly from the last two millennia. For this reason it is placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Darvaza Crater

Darvaza Gas Crater

Darvaza Gas Crater

© All Rights Reserved ameurice

The Darvaza gas crater is one of the most extraordinary sites in Turkmenistan and is one of the most apocalyptic landscapes in the world. It is about 60 meters wide and 20 meters deep and it is not of a natural origin, but actually man-made. The Darvaza crater was created somewhere back in the 1950's when the Soviets were trying to search for natural gas in this area and since then it has been burning.

Karakum Desert

The Karakum desert is dry and barren landscape in the central part of Asia, covering over two-thirds of Turkmenistan. It covers and area east of the Caspian Sea, south of the Aral Sea. The Amu Darya river and the Kyzyl Kum (see below) desert are located to the northeast. Although the desert is of course extremely dry, it is home to the largest irrigation canal in the world, which unfortunately causes soil salination because of leaks due to pour maintenance. The Karakum desert is easily visited if you have made it to Turkmenistan in the first place, which has very strict visa regulations. The Caspian railroad from Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat and the nearby main road cross the desert. One of the main attractions in the desert, apart from several old city ruins, are the Darvaza Gas Craters.

Other Sights and Activities

  • Pathian Fortresses of Nisa, UNESCO site.
  • Ashgabat - one of the newest and strangest capitals in the world.
  • Desert landscapes - for example the Karakum desert.

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Events and Festivals

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Weather

Much of Turkmenistan has a continental climate with dry conditions year round. Summers are hot, winters are cold, except for the area around the Caspian Sea, where winters are moderated by the influence of the water and summers are less hot but more humid. Summer temperatures average around 35 degrees during the day, around 20 at night. But temperatures close to 50 degrees are not unheard of, especially in the central deserts. Winters are on average not that cold, around zero, but occasionally temperatures can drop well below -20 degrees Celcius at night.
The best time for a visit are spring and autumn when warm, sunny and dry conditions are the norm.

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Getting there

Note that you have to arrange your visa before entering the country and apart from transitvisas, you need a prearranged tour to spend longer in the country. Also, when arriving by plane, a transitvisa is not allowed!

By Plane

The national airline of Turkmenistan is Turkmenistan Airlines, with flights from the capital Ashgabat to and from Beijing, Bangkok, Delhi, Tehran, Abu Dhabi and European destinations like Moscow, London and Frankfurt. Both Turkmenistan Airlines as Turkish Airlines have flights to and from Istanbul. From Europe, this is one of the best and cheapest connections.

By Car

Few people travel with their own car through Turkmenistan, but you should be able to get a transit visa if you want to drive between for example Iran and Uzbekistan. Be sure to arrange everything before you want to cross borders, and have your papers and insurance in order.

By Bus

There are no direct connections between Turkmenistan and its neighbours, but borders with Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Iran are relatively easy to cross and should take an hour or maybe two. The border with Afghanistan is open and can be crossed though few people take this route. You have to take transport to the border, cross the border yourself and take onward transport to the nearest town. Serkhetabat is the border town with Afghanistan and across the border it's about 2 hours to Herat.
To Iran, the most used border crossing is Gaudan/Bajgiran, south of Ashgabat and along the route to Mashad.
You can travel from Turkmenbashi in northern direction to Kazakhstan, onward to Aktau. It's a desolated but beautiful area.
There are three border crossings to and from Uzbekistan: the Farab crossing between Bukhara and Turkmenabat, the Dashogus crossing which is good if you are heading to Urgench or Kiva in Uzbekistan, and the Khojeli crossing towards Konye-Urgench and Nukus (half an hour away).

By Boat

There are boats between the Caspian port city of Turkmenbashi and the capital of Azerbaijan, Baku.

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Getting Around

By Plane

Turkmenistan Airlines has regular scheduled flights between Ashgabat, Chardzhou, Dashoguz, Mary, Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabat, and to Kerki and Balkanabat a few times a week as well. Flying in Turkmenistan is probably the cheapest anywhere in the word, with tickets rarely costing more than several dollars, maybe ten if you are unlucky. Flights are subsidised and fuel is extemely cheap as well.

By Train

There are several worthwile traintrips, but only for the train enthusiasts, as services are slow and sometimes uncomfortable. The Trans-Caspian Railway runs from Turkmenbashi at the Caspian Sea, through Ashgabat and Mary to Chardzhou in the east before continuing north to Uzebekistan. It takes about 16 hours to complete the journey between Turkmenistan and Ashgabat, which is many hours more than by bus or car.

By Car

Travelling around by yourself by renting a car is not really an option, as most times you will be accompanied by a driver who doubles as a guide. Still, if you have a transit visa for a few days, there are several upmarket hotels in Ashgabat which might have rental cars. Roads are tarred and traffic drives on the right. You need an international driving permit or your national driver's licence will do as well. Most car travel will be on an organised tour, sometimes in sturdy 4wd cars when going to remote places.

By Bus

There are modern and comfortable long distance buses to Dashgouz, Mary, Turkmenabashi and Turkmenabat from Ashgabat. All other towns are serviced by less comfortable older buses and minibuses or taxis.

By Boat

Basically, Turkmenistan is a very dry place and there is no regular domestic passenger services, even no on the Caspian Sea.

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Red Tape

Travellers from almost every country need a visa and you will have to arrange it before you arrive in the country. If you want to spend some more time in the country, you will need to arrange a tour as well, as transit visas are only valid for 3 to 5 days, which barely leaves enough time to enjoy everything the country has to offer. Visas come with a letter of invitation as well (LOI). There are several touroperators in the country which will be happy to arrange many things for you. For more information, check the visa info on the Turkmenistan Embassy website and the Turkmenistan overseas Embassies.

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Money

See also: Money Matters

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Work

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Study

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Language

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Eat

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Sleep

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Drink

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Health

See also: Travel Health

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Safety

See also: Travel Safety

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Keep Connected

Internet

Phone

See also: International Telephone Calls

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This is version 20. Last edited at 23:16 on Sep 24, 09 by Hien (-8). 20 articles link to this page.

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