Ukraine

Quick Facts

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Local name

Ukrayina

Capital

Kiev

Government

Republic

Nationality

Ukrainian

Population

46 372 700 ^[1]

Languages

Ukrainian, Russian

Religions

Christianity (Orthodox, Catholic, Protestant), Judaism

Currency

Ukrainian Hryvnia (UAH) ₴

Calling Code

+380

Time Zone

EET (UTC+2)

Daylight Saving Time

EEST (UTC+3)

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In other Languages

Introduction

Crimea, Sevastopol

© All Rights Reserved SevGS

Between the 9th and 11th centuries, Ukraine was the center of Kievan Rus, one of the most important civilizations at the time. Today, it is geographically large (it's the second largest country in Europe), but politically weak, troubled and unstable. A disastrous century of control by the Soviet Union led to millions of deaths; though the Soviets relinquished their rule in 1991, the country still struggles to get to its feet.

For travellers, Ukraine offers a lot more bright spots. Hiking is superb in the country's Western reaches, where the Carpathian Mountains make an appearance. But Ukraine's real attraction lies in its cities and villages, with varied architectural styles pointing to a nation with a long, rich past. The capital, Kiev, was once the home of Kievan Rus; it contains a wealth of history, from Mongol invasions to the more recent Chernobyl disaster. Villages display a more traditional way of life, where friendly folk live in cottages amongst rolling green hills.

Brief History

Geography

Ukraine shares international borders with Belarus, Russia, Poland, Slovakia, Moldova, Hungary and Romania.

Regions

Ukraine is divided into twenty-four provinces (oblasts) and one autonomous republic (avtonomna respublika), Crimea. The oblasts are further subdivided into hundreds of districts. The cities of Kiev and Sevastopol also have a special legal status.

For travelling purposes, it is more useful to group the oblasts into three larger regions:

Western Ukraine

Comprised of 9 oblasts (Chernivtsi, Ivano-Frankivsk, Khmelnytskyi, Lviv, Rivne, Ternopil, Vinnytsia, Volyn and Zakarpattia) which were historically under the control of mostly non-Russian European countries, this region of Ukraine is the least 'russified' and has managed to preserve a lot of the traditional architecture, food, language and religion.

Central Ukraine

Central Ukraine is comprised of the following oblasts: Cherkasy, Chernihiv, Kiev (both the oblast and city), Kirovohrad, Poltava, Sumy and Zhytomyr. As the centre of the Russian expansion to Ukraine this part of Ukraine was constantly fought over by Russia and the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.

Eastern Ukraine

Eastern Ukraine is comprised of the autonomous Crimea (including Sevastopol) and the following oblasts: Dnipropetrovsk, Donetsk, Kharkiv, Kherson, Luhansk, Mykolaiv, Odessa and Zaporizhia. This part of Ukraine is most strongly influenced by Russian culture as it was under Russian rule for a large part of modern history. It also contains the largest Russian minority in the country.

Cities

• Kiev, the country's capital. Pop. approx. 4 million. The bustling centre of all things in Ukraine. There are many things and sites to explore, including some beautiful churches, squares and there are even some beaches along the river. You could easily spend three days in the capital.
• Odessa, a popular resort on the Black Sea. Pop. approx 1 million. Known as the 'Pearl of the Black Sea' it has been eulogised in a great many songs and in Ukrainian and Soviet mentality but remains relatively scruffy. Only 213 years old, built by order of Catherine the Great, it does not contain many old historical sites. The current mayor is doing a lot to make the centre, 'old' city, more attractive in order to attract UNESCO world heritage status.
• Djepropetrovsk
• Jalta
• L'viv, Polish/Austrian influenced attractive and historical medieval town. The central square is the focus of everything and the streets which span out from it lead to all central sites.
• Kharkov
• Sevastopol
• Simferopol
• Donetsk

Sights and Activities

Crimea

Crimea, Sevastopol

© All Rights Reserved SevGS

Crimea is a region in the south of Ukraine and the Crimean Peninsula is connected to the rest of the Ukraine by a narrow piece of land. It feels more like being on an island and with many beaches to choose from it is a favorite spot for many Ukrainian tourists as well. Apart from the beaches, there are mountains and cultural sites to explore. Cities include Simferopol and Sevastopol, but the real gem probably is Yalta, a beautiful city with Russian Czar's palaces and other great monuments. Livadia Palace is famous as the place where Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt planned the division of Europe at the end of World War II in 1945 at the Yalta Conference in 1945. Crimea gets very busy in the summer months.

Carphatians

The Carphantians are a mountain range in the extreme west of the country, on the border with Romania. It is the only real mountainous area of the country and is a welcome relief to the flatter areas in the central and east of the country. Popular for skiing in the winter (although services are not to the same level as elsewhere in Europe) and hiking in the summer, the Carphantians are rugged and covered with forests. In fact, the Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians are placed on the Unesco World Heritage List since 2007 because they are an outstanding example of undisturbed forests in Ukraine all the way to the border with Slovakia. They also contain an invaluable reservoir of beech and many species associated with, and dependent on, these forest habitats. More inhabited areas of Carpathia unfortunately suffer from attempted overdevelopment (stalled hotel projects litter the hillsides).

Chernobyl

On the 26th of April 1986, a nuclear reactor at the Chernobyl Nuclear Station exploded during a test to see how much power was needed to keep the reactor operating during a blackout. It is still not clear how many people have died exactly, but even up until now, people are facing the consequences. It is now possible to visit the site, but only on a tour as it is very important you stay within certain boundaries. Over 100 000 people lived in this area, and only several hundreds have gone back during recent years, albeit not to the city itself.

Events and Festivals

There are many public holidays in Ukraine (secular, religious and Soviet), most of which, as a visitor, you will only notice as celebrated by general drinking and merriment. The most widely celebrated are New Year (1st January); Orthodox Christmas (7th January); Women's Day (8th March); Easter (according to the Orthodox Calendar - this date shifts); 1st May; Victory Day (9th May).

Weather

Ukraine typically has hot and dry summers and cold winters with snowfall. Temperatures average from 25 °C to 30 °C during the day from June to September but can get significantly higher on some days. Winters can be really cold, with temperatures sometimes reaching -30 °C. That said, the Crimea Peninsula is very mild compared to much of the country, with mostly temperatures above zero even in winter. The best times to visit are spring/early summer (May/June) and autumn (late September - October) when temperatures are fine and it is neither really cold or hot. You also avoid the summer season crowds. Precipitation is possible year round, but is more likely during summer. Winters have severe snowfall sometimes.

Getting There

By Plane

Boryspil International Airport (KBP) near the capital Kiev is the base of Ukraine International Airlines, the national courier. Amongst the international connections are Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Brussels, Dubai, Frankfurt, Helsinki, Kuwait, Lisbon, London, London, Manchester, Madrid, Milan, Paris, Rome, Tbilisi, Vienna, and Zürich. Aerosvit Airlines is an even bigger airline with many more destinations such as Shanghai, Beijing, Almaty, Bangkok, Toronto, Delhi and New York. Several dozens of other airlines serve Kiev as well, mainly from European cities and former Sovjetunion Republics.

Other cities with international airports include Lviv, Simferopol (Crimea) and Odesa, but they all have less flights.

By Train

There are train connections to most neighbouring countries and direct links include those from Warsaw and Moscow to Kiev.
Given current tensions between Moldova, Ukraine and Transdniestria, there have been no trains services between Odessa and Chisinau in Moldova since 2006.

By Car

By Bus

Buses from Chisinau in Moldova are frequent, but be sure they do not pass through Transdniestria (Tiraspol). The crossing is possible, but very risky and should be avoided. It is better to travel to Chernivtsi (North of Moldova) or through Southern Moldova towards Izmail, crossing the border at Palanca.

By Boat

The only options for international boat travel are from the port city of Odessa (or nearby Ilichovsk) to destinations like Istanbul and Derince in Turkey, Constanta in Romania, and Varna in Bulgaria. The ferry to Istanbul takes about 36 hours. A fast catamaran to Varna takes about 8 hours (to Constanta 6 hours). Tickets are available through Ukrferry company or in offices inside Odessa seaport. Boats to and from Georgia (Poti and Batumi) are not always reliable and frequent.
The Fergün Shipping Company travels between Yalta and Sinop in Turkey.

Getting Around

By Plane

Ukraine's first budget airline - http://wizzair.com/default.asp?slid=clear&language=EN|WIZZ Air]] - has only just started to operate. It has cheap routes between Kiev-Odessa, Kiev-Lvov and Kiev-Sebastopol, Kiev-Kharkov and Kiev-Zaporozhye. It is a faster alternative to trains, but a little more expensive (unless you book 2-3 months in advance). Ukraine International Airlines and Aerosvit Airlines have many internal flights as well, to even more destinations.

By Train

Trains to most places are overnight. The commonest tickets are 'Coupe' (a four bed cabin) or 'Platz-Kart' a carriage full of beds in two tiers. Bedding is provided. Trains are very slow and old, but the tickets are good value.
Local trains, and trains which travel during the day, are generally incredibly slow.
Poezda offers train timetables in CIS countries including Ukraine, in English. Ukrainian Railways offers the same, but in Ukrainian only.

By Car

Driving in Ukraine is generally dangerous due to the low standard of local driving and, in most places, poor roads. The roads in Western Ukraine are in better condition than elsewhere. The main road between Odessa and Kiev has two lanes running in each direction. Most drivers do not follow road rules.
Renting a car is an option if you want, with both major international (hertz for example) and local agencies renting cars at their offices in major towns and airports. Costs are comparatively high (due to the risk of theft and accident).
Within cities and between towns you can flag down a car, give the name of your destination and offer a price. The driver will accept, decline, or haggle. This is common practice in Ukraine but do not enter a car in which two men are sitting. Pay when you reach your destination.

By Bus

Intercity buses - major company is Autoluks - provide good, reliable service, but take longer than you would expect to travel the distance required. They make frequent stops for smokers, toilets, and snacks. All buses are non-smoking.
Local buses are very slow.
Minibuses ('marshrutka') are faster and cheap; they will service routes within cities and to local satellite towns and villages. Get on by standing at the roadside and flagging them down. You may have to pay on entering or on leaving the bus. The price is usually very cheap and the same rate whatever the distance travelled (currently, July 2008, 1.5 or 2 uah within a city; up to 10uah for distances of 50-70km). They have their destinations displayed in their windows.

By Boat

Ferry services exist from Odessa to Crimea (Sebastopol and Yalta) during the summer months. Check UKR Ferry for more information about schedules and prices.
Boat cruises exist in Kiev going up and down the Dnepr.

Red Tape

A few years ago, most travellers needed a visa. People from the following countries no longer require tourist visas: All countries within the European Union, United States, Canada, Japan, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican City, Monaco, Iceland, Norway, San Marino, Mongolia, Serbia, Montenegro and the countries of the Commonwealth of
Independent States (except Turkmenistan). Note that this only applies to tourist visas which last a maximum of 90 days.
On arrival at the border you will find (or be given) an immigration form which you must complete before going through immigration control. You must keep the part of the form which is returned to you and surrender is at the border when you leave Ukraine.

Money

The Ukrainian Hryvnia (UAH), often pronounced 'Grivna' is nominally pegged to the US dollar. There are 100 Kopeks to one Hryvnia. You will also hear people referring to 'Roubles' - but they mean UAH.

• Banknotes: ₴1, ₴2, ₴5, ₴10, ₴20, ₴50, ₴100, ₴200, ₴500
• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopiyok.

Approximate exchange rates (July 2008): USD1 = UAH4.50; EUR1 = UAH7.20; GBP1 = UAH9.20

Ukrainian cities are not as cheap as they used to be. Accommodation is relatively expensive for what you get. electronic goods are generally more expensive than in other countries. Alcohol and cigarettes are very cheap. ATMs are available in most towns and all cities. Exchange rates in the exchange booths (present everywhere, usually inside other shops) change every day.
Technically foreigners cannot change UAH into other currencies... but your UAH are worthless outside Ukraine (except Moldova and some border towns in Russian and Belarussia where they can be exchanged).
If you buy things in a supermarket, keep the til receipt with you - a man at the exit will probably check it.

Work

Study

There are language schools for learning Russian in the major cities.
Local Ukrainian universities are popular with foreign students from China and the Arab states, but the level of tuition is often not very high and 'buying' qualifications is common practice.

Language

Language depends on which area of the country you are in: East and South speak Russian; West speaks Ukrainian; parts of Crimea speak Tartar, villages in the South West speak Romanian and Bulgarian and in the Carpathians also dialects of Romanian, Hungarian and Polish. Villages and small towns between usually speak 'Surchik' a mixture of Russian and Ukrainian. Ukrainian and Russian are similar languages and someone speaking Ukrainian will largely be understood by someone who speaks Russian and vice versa.
To attempt any kind of individual travel in Ukraine will require you to learn the Cyrillic alphabet in order to read signs, destinations etc.

Eat

Food in Ukraine is generally very good value for money - compared to prices in most Western countries. Three course meal with wine for two at a good restaurant in a city will come in at 10-15 GBP each. Street vendors sell 'sharma' (Turkish influenced Keebab) and various 'Pirizhok' and 'Bulichki' (rolls, sweet, savory, filled sometimes fried). Traditional cuisine is quite fatty and contains quite a lot of meat - consider, for example, the traditional delicacy, 'salo', which is unadulterated pig fat, usually eaten with thin slices of dark bread and garlic. There are many types of soup - Borsht is the traditional beetroot-based soup, often made with meat. Cakes are also popular (and tasty). Seafood is available at coastal towns, but keep in mind that the Black Sea is quite polluted. Summer sees a huge variety of fresh, cheap vegetables and fruit sold at street-side stalls.

Sleep

In general accommodation in Ukraine is not good value for money. Hotel star-ratings are self-awarded and offer no guarantee of quality. Youth Hostels and good, budget hotels are a rarity. Up-market hotels exist near all major tourist sites and cities and the quality of these is generally similar to that found in Western Europe - but for the price you pay, you may well expect more than you actually get. Keep in mind that customer service is generally not of a high standard in Ukraine.

Drink

Alcohol is a huge part of Ukrainian culture and very cheap. Local drinks: vast quantities of vodka. Local beers and generally regarded as 'soft drinks' - Yantar, Slavutich, Chernigivskaya - are Pilsner style lagers, although there are also some 'dark' varieties. Imported beers from Germany and the Czech Republic are also common. Ukraine also produces its own wine in Crimea - 'Masandra' is the 'best' brand, although an acquired taste - and 'Champagne' in Odessa - produced around Franzusky Boulevard is generally reasonable quality. Moldovan wine (generally good quality) is freely available, and excellent (but relatively expensive) Georgian wines - especially Tsinandali and Naperulia - can also be found.

In the summer try 'Kvas', a refreshing non-alcoholic drink, slightly similar to Coke, but made from bread, and Kompot (a kind of fruit-based drink).

Do not drink tap water; bottled water (local and international brands) is freely available.

Health

Aptekas/pharmacies give all medicine over the counter. Dentists are relatively reliable. Doctors are generally incompetent and should be avoided. Hospitals are terrible places.
No special vaccinations are required.
Rabies is endemic and there are a lot of stray dogs and cats. There is usually a severe flu outbreak during the winter months.

Safety

Take care when crossing roads, driving, and in the poorer areas of cities.
There is a lot of opportunistic crime - theft etc., but not so much violent crime.
Avoid dealing with the police - they are often unhelpful and will want bribes.
Avoid doctors and hospitals - both are bad for your health.

Keep Connected

Internet

Internet cafes are found in all major cities. Many cafes and hotels now have WI-FI.

Phone

Local phones work well in Kiev, but not in Odessa - most use phonecards. If you are here for any length of time it is worth investing in a local sim-card for your mobile. No major international mobile operators exist in Ukraine (yet) so if you're Vodaphone or T-mobile (etc) your phone may not work here.

Post

Postal service of Ukraine is unreliable. Most packages get stolen or searched for things that can be sold. Post offices exist in all cities and towns and postcards can be sent quite safely, but the service may be slow.