Yellowstone National Park

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Introduction

Yellowstone

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Yellowstone National Park is one of the most famous natural preserves in the world. With over 2 million visitors each year and covering more then 3,468 square miles (8,983 km²) this wilderness area is amazing. The park is mainly in the state of Wyoming, although parts cross into Montana and Idaho. The park has a diversity of land formations such as lakes, canyons, mountains and rivers. There are also countless animal and plant species within the park including several endangered species like grizzlies, wolves and bison.

What draws most people to the park is more then its stunning beauty and animals. The park is the center of amazing geothermal activity. Over half the world's geothermal features are located within Yellowstone and are still fueled by massive volcanic powers. Some of these geysers, or small volcanoes, have become very popular. If looking for an intense back country experience or just driving the parks roads in a RV there is something for any group of travelers in Yellowstone National Park.

Brief History

Historic Yellowstone Lodge, Interior/lobby

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More then a 11,000 years ago Native Americans of the Clovis culture were collecting obsidian found in the park to make arrowheads. These arrowheads were found as far away as the Mississippi River valley. Many different native groups believed Yellowstone to be a holy place and used it to collect valuable mineral resources.

The first Europeans in Yellowstone were French trappers who named the area "Roche Jaune," which was most likely a bad translation of a Native American name meaning "Rock Yellow River." Later on American trappers mutated the French name into Yellowstone. The Lewis and Clark Expedition, of 1805, skipped the park although John Colter, a member of the group, went on his own to the area. Many mountain men and trappers in the 1850s talked about the park and its geothermal activity but people in the west just thought they were crazy. Not until 1869, because of the American Civil War, did the first detailed expedition enter the Yellowstone area. After several survey teams went into the area, all them lobbied for Congress to protect the area.

In 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed a bill that created Yellowstone National Park, making it the first national park in the USA. The early years of the park were quite lawless and the park was not really protected. People poached and raided it for whatever resources they wanted. In the late 1880s, a railroad station was built in Livingston, Montana that gave greater access to the park making the number visitors jump from 300 in 1872 to 5,000 in 1883. Poaching was a big problem until the USA Army built Camp Sheridan, later renamed Fort Yellowstone. The soldiers protected the park and when the National Park Service was founded in 1916, the army turned authority to them and the National Park Service used the same tactics to protect the park.

During the 20th century car traffic made the park more accessible and eventually horses were banned on public roads. After World War II in the 1950s people visiting the park skyrocketed. In 1959 the Yellowstone earthquake hit, which was the largest earthquake recorded in recent history. New geysers were discovered afterward and many roads were damaged. In 1988, there were massive wildfires that destroyed almost 36% of the park.

The park has very cold winter and pretty moderate summers. Visiting at different times of the year allows people to see different things. Many die hard Yellowstone fans say the best time to visit is in the winter by horse drawn sled or cross country skis, due to the lack of crowds and the ease of spotting wildlife.

Geography, Geology and Ecology

Geography

View of Yellowstone Lower Falls, Yellowstone NP

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The park covers a massive area of 3,468 square miles and is larger the the states of Rhode Island and Delaware combined! Yellowstone is home to amazing high altitude lakes, including Yellowstone lake that is one of the largest high altitude lakes in North America. 80% of the park is covered with forests while the rest is primarily grassland.

The Continental Divide cuts diagonally across the southwestern area of the park. This divide separate water flowing into the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean. The Snake River stars in the park flowing to the Pacific, while the Yellowstone River flows to the Atlantic Ocean. The park is on the Yellowstone Plateau that has an average altitude of about 8,000 ft (2,400 m) above sea level. Several mountain ranges cut into the park and are around the park. The highest peak in the park is Mount Washburn that is 10,243 ft (3,122 m).

There are also 290 waterfalls of at least 15 ft (4.5 m) in the park and the tallest water falls is the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone river at 308 ft (94 m). The park is also home to an amazing petrified forest. Lastly two deep canyons cut into the park that are stunning.

Geology

Yellowstone: Grand Prismatic Pool, view from Fairy Falls Trail sidetrail

© All Rights Reserved jengelman

Yellowstone National Park sits on top of the Yellowstone Caldera, which is called a super volcano because the caldera covers a huge area and can have massive eruptions. The last eruption that was 640,000 years ago and was a thousand times more powerful then the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. Many of the eruptions in the past were much larger and more destructive then the most recent one. The eruptions have had a great impact on world life and led to the extinction of many species around the world. This caldera was not caused by plate tectonics but is considered a geothermal hotspot that the plates move over. There are several of this hotspots located around the globe.

This geothermal activity is also responsible for the amazing geysers, mud pits and hot springs around the park. Every now and then new geysers and other geothermal phenomena form in the park. Occasionally animals in the park die by inhaling the toxic fumes from the different formations. Remember to careful hiking in the back country because some of these formations may seem solid but are not and they contain extremely hot water.

Ecology

Young Elk

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Yellowstone is home to many forms of wildlife and plant life. Many of the species of wildlife are endangered and are being given a second chance in the park. Remember that all the animals in the park are wild and should never be fed and given a wide distance. These animals have been known to attack people. For more information read the article Wildlife in Yellowstone National Park.

Sights and Activities

• Old Faithful Geyser gets it name from erupting approximately every 91 minutes and is one of the most popular attractions in the park. For the Old Faithful webcam click here.
• Yelllowstone Lake is a stunning lake located in the park.
• Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is the largest canyon in the park and has stunning yellow rock sides.
• Mammoth Hot Springs is a large geothermal area in the park.
• Castle Geyser is a large geyser located in the park.
• Fisherman's Bridge is a popular spot to watch the lake and the fish in the water. It is now illegal to fish in the park.

Opening Hours

Many roads, entrances and facilities are not open year round. Therefore check on the official hours page before a visit. Below is an estimate for the openings and closings for different times of the year.

Summer

The summer season is approximately from mid-April to the beginning of November. Although not all campgrounds, areas of the park, entrances. lodges and roads are open during this large amount of time. It is best to check the official website.

Fall

• October 14, 2008: Tower Fall to Canyon Jct and Long Lake via Beartooth Pass to Montana State line roads are closed.
• November 3, 2008: all roads in the park are closed to the public except from the North Entrance to Upper Mammoth Terrace, and Mammoth via Tower Junction to the Northeast Entrance.

Weather in this area of the country is unpredictable especially in the fall. Many roads can be closed early and switch to winter schedule if there is lots of snow fall early in the season. Make sure to double check before entering the park during the fall.

Winter

Spring

Cost

Private/Noncommercial Vehicle

The entrance cost is $25 per private vehicle as and is valid for 7 days. The same pass can be used for Grand Teton National Park. There is also an additional $20 charge for each snowmobile or motorcycle.

Foot, Bike or Ski

For any traveler over 16 entering the park by foot, bike or skiing there is a charge of $12 per person.

Park Annual Pass

An annual pass for the park costs $50 and is valid for 12 months after date of purchase. This pass allows unlimited entry for any passengers in a single privately owned vehicle at Yellowstone or Grand Teton National Park

Getting There

By Air

Flying into Butte, Bozeman, Cody or Jackson then renting a car is the only way to reach the park by air.

By Car

Snow covered roadway, Yellowstone NP

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For a road map for the park click here. The North Entrances near Gardiner is the only entrance open year round. The other entrances close during the winter due to heavy snow fall. Some entrances close in October while others in November. Most open again by mid May. Remember different years have different amounts of snow therefore the exact opening and closing dates of roads cannot be predicted.

Butte, Montana
Go on I-90 East to 287 South till the West Yellowstone Entrance.

Bozeman, Montana
Go on 84 West then turn onto 191 South till the West Yellowstone Entrance.

Livingston, Montana
Take 89 South to the North Entrance near Gardiner.

Billings, Montana
Take I-90 then turn south onto MT 72 then turn west onto 212 till the entrance at Cooke City.

Cody, Wyoming
Go due west on 14 till the East Entrance.

Jackson, Wyoming
Take 26 east and turn north on 191 and go through Grand Teton National Park then enter at the South Entrance.

Idaho Falls
Either take 20 north to the West Yellowstone Entrance or take 26 East to 191 North.

By Bus

Eat

The cheapest option for eating in the park is cooking. It is amazing what can be cooked on a small camping stove or a larger car camping stove. Remember the camping stove cooking takes a little creativity. There are a few grocery stores in the park, which can be nice for longer trips.

If tired of cooking over a camping stove there are some eating options in the park. Although most of the restaurants serve all American style cooking the portions are very large. The options tend to be standard fast food cafeteria, casual snack stand or a traditional dining room.

Mammoth Hot Springs

• Terrace Grill is a fast food restaurant on the less pricey side.
• Mammoth Hotel Dining Room

Canyon Village Area

• Canyon Glacier Pit Snack Bar is a traditional 1950s American diner style food joint operated by the Yellowstone General Stores.
• Canyon Lodge Cafeteria
• The Picnic Stop is a delis with sandwiches and salads.

Yellowstone Lake

• Lake Yellowstone Hotel Deli has some sandwiches and other lighter food.
• Yellowstone Park General Store has a small menu serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Old Faithful Area

• Geyser Grill has some quick and inexpensive food and is located in the Old Faithful Snow Lodge.
• Old Faithful Lodge Cafeteria has cheap and quick lunch and dinner options.
• Bear Par Snack Shop is a nice ice cream stand located in the lobby of the Old Faithful Inn.
• Yellowstone General Store has a small lunch counter.

Drink

Sleep

Budget

There are several campgrounds in the park. They range in price from $12 to $18.50. The more expensive places will have toilets and running water while the cheaper places will be more basic. The camp areas of Indian Creek, Lewis Lake, Mammoth, Norris, Pebble Creek, Slough Creek and Tower Fall are first come first served and usually fill quickly during the high season. For complete information on camping visit http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/camping-in-yellowstone.htm

Mid-Range/Upscale

There are several non-camping options located in the park. All of these lodges and cabins are operated by Xanterra Parks & Resorts and for reservations and rates look at the Travel Yellowstone website.