JUNE 2024
The early completion of our Mountain Gorilla tracking meant we had several hours to relax before we embarked on our afternoon activity.
Our afternoon couldn’t have been any more different to the morning. From mixing with affluent western tourist, able to afford the expensive permit required to visit Mountain Gorilla’s, to visiting one of the poorest communities in Uganda.
A Batwa community (see below) live a short walk from our accommodation and we had signed up for a guided visit. Once registered at the community office our first stop was the Rushaga Community school. Our guide introduced us to the head teacher, who explained how the school functioned then showed us around.
The school has two categories of students: Bakiga students whose parents can afford to pay plus orphans and Batwa students without access to any funds. Classes are offered to children aged between 3 and 13 and lunch is provided every day regardless of the ability to pay. Some students stay in the dormitories on campus. This is to help them focus on their school work, which would not be possible in the home environment. For those students unable to pay for their schooling, charity organisations have stepped in to help the finances.
We were then shown around the campus. The school has 3 main wings each housing 3 to 4 classrooms. The buildings are cement with tin roofs and encircle an uncovered courtyard. An additional building provides dormitories, one for girls and one for boys. School funding is a major issue. The buildings need renovating and some beds in the dormitories don’t have mattresses. The irony is that the school and Batwa community land is sandwiched between Rushaga’s most expensive lodge and the Bwindi National Park. What an unfair world.
Rushaga village
Rushaga School in the background
We left the school campus, pledging to make a donation once we got back home (which we did). From the school we entered Batwa community land. A cluster of basic dwellings surrounded by small cultivated plots. A local group danced and sang for us then demonstrated how they used to live before being evicted from their forest home. We left wishing we could have donated more to help them but our Ugandan Shillings were limited. If nothing else, this made us even more determined to do something when we returned to the UK.
Batwa People
Although we were on the move again the following day, we did have time for an early morning birding walk. We were met by a birding expert and his two assistants, all of which live locally in Rushaga. What followed was several hours of very enjoyable bird watching, first along the access road to the village then to the edge of the forest. The number of different species spotted was amazing but only possible with the keen eyes of our expert birding guides. This was a great way to start the day and we were so glad we had added it to our Bwindi itinerary.
Looking for birds with the Guide and his 3 apprentices
Birdwatching Team
Sun Bird
One of the many birds we spotted
From Rushaga we drove the short distance to Lake Bunyonyi.
It was a dirt road to begin with, past terraced crops clinging to the steep hillside. Along the roadside, young children were minding the family goats whilst the older ones were in charge of cattle. We passed large sacks of crops, mostly potatoes, that had been hauled out the valley ready for collection from the road side. As usual, water was being transported in large jerrycans with plugs made from green bananas. Earlier that day, Anne had tried her hand at carrying a 20ltr jerrycan of water and now understood how heavy and difficult it was.
Photograph assistant
20 litres of water on your head is not easy task, the owner of the Jerrycan is a bit concerned I will dropped it and she will have to go back to the river
You child carrying water back home
Back on the main road we pass field of sorghum, lots of which were ready for harvesting. Sure enough, we were soon passing their dark seeds drying in the sun. It was on this stretch of road that we finally got to see the bird we had been looking out for. Uganda’s national bird and the one displayed on their flag, the Grey Crowned Crane. A male, female and two young ones were slowly moving through a field next to the road so we stopped for photo’s.
Grey Crowned Cranes, Uganda National Bird
It was back on dirt for the final stretch to the lake, up and over small hills and several stone quarries. Men, women and children could be seen smashing large boulders in to small stones of various sizes. A hammer seemed to be the implement of choice, but worryingly, no safety glasses or foot wear could be seen. The prepared stones were then piled by the roadside for collection.
Stone working
Stones ready for collections
Our accommodation was on Kyahugye Island in the middle of Lake Bunyonyi.
This required us to be ferried across with our luggage then driven in a buggy to the top of the island where our eco-resort was. On arrival, we found out that we were the only guests. Our own private island, at least for the night anyway.
Our cabin was a short walk from the main building, down towards the shore. The front deck looked out over the lake and was quite idealic. We could walk around the island if we wished but choose to relax and enjoy our cabin instead.
On our way to Kyahugye Island
Lake Bunyonyi
The following day we retraced our steps and were soon on the road again, this time heading north east. For the past few days we had been in Uganda’s highlands but now we were returning to lower elevations.
As we descended the scenery changed. Terraced farming had been replaced by banana and pineapple cultivation, together with much of the land given over to cattle grazing. Another impromptu stop gave us the opportunity to learn more about the growing of pineapples. The farmer was happy to show us his crop and explained he was in need of a bit of rain to finish off the ripening process.
As our journey progressed, you could see we were in a more affluent area. In Uganda owning cattle is an indication of wealth and we were now passing some fairly large herds.
Ankole Long-Horned cattle
Pineapple preparation
Mobile shop on bicycle
Market day
Bags of charcoal by the road side
Around lunch time we had reached Lake Mburo, our base for the next two nights. Our lodge was perched on a rocky outcrop with views out over the national park. No fences, which is the case for all of Uganda’s national parks, meant that wildlife could roam freely around the lodge. During our stay, we shared the rock with Olive Baboons, Vervet Monkeys and Banded Mongoose to name but a few.
View from the Rock
Banded Mongoose
Olive baboon raiding a bin
Our stay was less busy than had been the case in previous days. We enjoyed the environment and ventured into the park on only two occasions.
After an early dinner and as the sun began to set, we picked up a park ranger and embarked on a night drive. Night drives can often be disappointing in terms of sightings but this one offered lots to see. Our ranger, who was very knowledgeable and found some rare nocturnal residents with his spotlight. Two Bushbaby’s, a couple of Genets, a Bush Duiker and a White Tailed Mongoose were the highlights. As we entered the park to start our night drive we were surprised to see local people walking out with bundles of wood. We were informed that this was all part of a local agreement (see below).
Owl on the night drive
Our second excursion into the park was the following day. The wildlife was plentiful and active on this cool but bright morning. We positioned ourselves at a couple of water holes and were treated to a constant flow of activity. In particular it was nice to see Eland. Africa’s largest antelope but also one of the most elusive. The sight of a Topi was a first for us.
Sun rise over the park
Reflection
Warthogs
Buffalo at waterhole
Topi
Elands
With our relaxing stay at the rock complete. We continued our journey north back to where we had started, in Entebbe.
Today we would pass through the fruit and vegetable growing region of Uganda’s centre. Stalls lined the road selling the products that were grown in the fields behind them. Tomatoes, avocados, water melon, passion fruit, papaya, it was all there. On the road, overloaded trucks ferried produce to central markets whilst Boda Boda’s delivered locally.
One section of our route took us close to the shore of Lake Victoria and here a different product was for sale. Men would hold up the fish they had caught that day hoping that someone would stop and buy. They were doing a good trade.
After lunch new things caught our attention. A large Chinese owned rice paddy seemed out of character for the area and sweet potatoes were now the crop of choice.
As we reached the outskirts of Kampala and before we turned towards Entebbe. The towns became larger and manufacture goods were now on display. A whole road selling just drums and stalls made way for large household items in the more central districts.
Finally we reached the more sedate lakeside area of Entebbe and our guest house for the last night in Uganda. A comfortable room and attractive garden was just what we needed after a long day on the road.
Fruits and vegetables market
Market stall
Police check point could cause some serious tire damaged if you don't stop
All the tour stoping for lunch at the same location
Lunch stop at the Equator
Kampala Traffic
On our last day in Entebbe , street signs
Uganda driving school
Our flight wasn’t until late afternoon, so we had most of the day to relax in. We stretched our legs around the neighbourhood outside the guest house. We were close to the presidential building so it was no surprise to see lots of big houses. We invited Innocent for lunch on our last day, which was taken on a restaurant terrace looking out over Lake Victoria. A perfect way to end an incredible trip.
Lake Victoria
Expecting the two hours we had allocated for check-in and security at Entebbe airport to be more than sufficient. We were surprised by just how long it took. Our bags must have been checked at least four times and border control was painfully slow. Not the fault of the officials more the travelling public.
In the end our flight back to the UK went as planned, arriving just about on time.
Personal Observations & Interesting Facts
Batwa people in Uganda
Also known as the ''Twa'' people, the Batwa are one of the indigenous African pygmies who originally lived in Bwindi impenetrable and Mgahinga equatorial rainforests before their designation as national parks.
The Batwa were known “as the keepers of the forests”. This is because they lived in harmony with it for thousands of years.
However, in the 1990’s the Batwa were evicted from their forest home, as their presence was deemed to be in conflict with national park policy. The Ugandan government provided them with land on the edge of the forest but did little to help them transit to a new way of life. As the government retained ownership of the land the Batwa now occupy, they don’t even have the security of a permanent settlement.
Lake Mburo National Park Community Agreement
As we understand it. To gain support for the national park creation an agreement was reached with the local communities that border the Lake Mburo National Park.
The agreement was that local people could earn money working in the newly formed park by providing ground maintenance. They could also take the wood created from tree pruning. The ground maintenance involves clearings away some of the dead foliage then undertake a controlled burning. The burnt ground then produces new succulent growth for grazers to feed on. The burnt soil also releases minerals craved by the wildlife in the park.
Tourist Numbers
Although it was only the start of the high season, we were surprised by the low tourist numbers. Most of the lodges and camps we stayed at were fairly empty. The lack of US and Canada tourist was one suggested reason. Since the 2023 murder of two tourists in the Queen Elizabeth National Park by DRC militants. The respective governments have put Uganda an amber warning category. Although that is the same category allocated to the UK, due to the perceived treat of terrorism, where tourist number don’t appear to be affected.
The Language of Uganda
In Uganda the most spoken language in the capital city is Luganda, followed by English (also the official language since 1962). English is also the language of business and judicial matters. Most spoken after Luganda and English is Swahili. This language is more common in neighbouring Kenya and Tanzania. Swahili is taught in schools as an optional additional language. Uganda is a multilingual country with over 70 generally estimated languages spoken. Of these, 43 fall into four main families—Bantu, Nilotic, Central Sudanic and Kuliak.
This featured blog entry was written by MAd4travel from the blog MAd4Travel.
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