2026 Day 1 - St Bees to Cleator
First day of the walk. Sunshine and blue skies and more importantly, no wind. Blessed with ideal conditions. The transport company turned up to take the luggage. The weight restrictions were to be strictly enforced – 20 kgs max. Deb and I packed all the stuff for the river cruise in one of the suitcases to be transported to Robin Hood Bay. We lent Leonie a small carry on so that she could do the same and stay within the 20 kg. If there was one complaint, it would be the harsh luggage restrictions – one case of 20 kg. It’s a fucking pain! If I was RAW (tour company), I would be looking for another transport company. You would think that they were air lifting our cases to the next destination which is 6 km away.
First disaster! My water bladder leaked in my back pack and the contents were soaked. As I am now a seasoned camper, it was not problem. No electronics in there to be ruined by the water. This is the first time I have had bladder problems. I reckon the pack will dry out by the end of the walk.
Hi ho hi ho, off we go. First thing, head up the village of St Bees and onto the fields getting amongst the sheep and lambs. Sheep are fat and the lambs very cute. Enough to make our Kiwi cuzzie bros break out into a sweat!
The gang
Some worried faces there
Initially, the walking was on the footpath – great, but it soon converted into a slog in the boggy muddy fields. So it became an exercise in avoiding slipping in the mud and avoiding the mines laid by the livestock. Along the way, the scenery was awesome.
We religiously stopped on the hour for a breather, drink and a snack. We went off piste a couple of times but corrected ourselves as soon as we realised it.
Shots along the Walk
St Bees school
Panoramic of the surrounding farmland
Shetlands - ornamental horses
Maclivers about to enter the tunnel
Early lunch break - I order a cooked breakfast but use the baconand sausage to make a sandwich for lunch but have cereal and toast for breakfast. Smart!
One of the many gates to the paddocks. Thank god there were no rams in the fields or we will have to beat them off with our walking poles
Curious horse
Part of the village of St Bees
Cute lambs
Ennerdale Country Hotel - Cleator
Random Tourist in a churchyard - Cleator
Fancy headstone in the churchyard
The sheep have been scratching up against this shrub and left bits of wool behind
Typical Northern Home scene - in days past, these would all have been miner's homes
Flag collection
Interesting metal signposts
Yet another gate
Big Al Wainwright - the dickhead who thunk up a 300 km walk
Tulips are out - enough to make a dutchman cry
Val with her poles
After about 3.5 hours, we wandered into the village of Cleator. We could have driven here in 30 mins! Headed straight to the accommodation – the Ennerdale Country House. Another 3 star stay. I am getting the message that 3 stars is all we are getting. No Shangri La here! It needed a lot of work to get it into shape but the rooms were clean and tidy with the radiators working well. Apparently, the restaurant is the high end dining in Cleator!
Deb had to do some camp laundry as the trousers were splattered with mud. Sun’s out so everything should dry by tomorrow for the continuing long march.
A few facts:
Cleator is a village in Cumbria but shares its name with a historic, privately-owned ghost town in Arizona, USA, and a village in Cumbria, England. The Arizona location (formerly Turkey Creek) is a 1915 mining town turned tourist spot.
The name Cleator is hill pasture in old Norse or old English. The UK Cleator is a historic, industrial-rooted village near the Lake District. That is not saying much as everything in the UK is historic. 100 years old is just second hand junk.
We are headed to Ennerdale tomorrow - 17 km!
Addendum:
History of Ennerdale Country House
The Ennerdale Country House Hotel in Cleator, Cumbria, is a Grade II listed building, formerly known as "The Flosh," built around the time of Queen Victoria’s coronation (circa 1837). Once a grand private mansion owned by David Ainsworth, a prominent local flax mill owner, it was known for its expansive, tastefully laid-out grounds.
Historical Highlights:
Original Estate: Originally named The Flosh, the house was owned by the Ainsworth family, who were major employers in the area during the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Architecture: The building is a Grade II listed structure featuring, during its residential days, 3 acres of grounds including conservatories, vineries, and orchard houses.
Refurbishment & Features: The building has since been transformed into a hotel featuring 5 acres of landscaped gardens, an Italian fountain, and retained historic features like restored original fireplaces and ceilings.
Current Status: Known as the Ennerdale Country House Hotel ('A Bespoke Hotel'), it functions as a hotel and wedding venue close to the Lake District, featuring 30 individually designed rooms
This featured blog entry was written by wilson.lim61 from the blog 2026 The UK Long March - Wainwright Way.
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