Kirkwall - Day 27 Thursday July 10
We are back to Scotland for our final port of call...and we have magnificent mild weather!
The Orkney Islands is an archipelago of 70 islands and of these, Kirkwall is the largest. It is known that the islands were inhabited by the Picts since at least the 6th century BC, and later the Vikings. From 875 through 1468, Kirkwall was a trading hub for the Norwegians. The ten-mile Pentland Firth (a narrow inlet from the sea) separates the Orkney Islands from mainland Scotland. The islands are known for rich farmland and moors, fringed by dramatic cliffs. Add to this chronic blustery weather and, despite the fact that it is the wrong country, I want to start calling for Heathcliff.
The Orkneys boast some of the premier prehistoric sites in Northeastern Europe, left by the advanced Stone Age civilizations that flourished here. Today, we are taking our only ship excursion, "Ring of Brodgar, Skara Brae, and Skaill House" because I promised you rocks.
Our first stop was Skara Brae, a Neolithic village that was buried under sand for thousands of years, until it was suddenly revealed during a fierce windstorm in 1850. It is considered the best-preserved of its kind in Northern Europe. The oldest dwellings date to 3100 BC and reveal that some Neolithic people lived underground; their dwellings were connected by tunnels like rabbit warrens that were lit by whale oil lamps. For safety, the homes were covered in turf, and there were few entrances for defensive safety. Without metal tools, “furniture’ was fashioned from rocks, and giant stone slabs on pivots served as doors. They even developed a primitive sewer system. Quite impressive. Among the fascinating relics found in the village are tools, beads, pottery and whalebone artifacts spanning a period of approximately 600 years of occupation, all based on a maritime economy. What happened to this community remains a mystery.
What is now Skaill Bay was once a freshwater loch (lake). When the sea level of the Atlantic rose and took the freshwater, it may have forced the inhabitants of Skara Brae to move. What remains of the village is believed to be only a third of what was originally built.
Our next stop was Orkney's finest manor house, Skaill House. A powerful bishop built Skaill House in 1620, atop an ancient graveyard (questionable choice IMHO). Canons at the edge of the patio offer a dubious welcome.
The manor offered a glimpse of well-to-do life in the 17th century.
The dining room displays Captain James Cook’s dinner service, bartered by his crew on their return home after his death in Hawaii.
Sadly, this model of St. Magnus Church is the best view that we had of it today.
Along with a proper umbrella, every well dressed woman requires a dead pelt wrap...don't you agree?
I would love to know how many hours of embroidery it took to complete this waistcoat. Stunning work.
The Orkneys offer lots of livestock sightings. There were rabbits all over the fields, but you may need a magnifying glass to spy them.
This big boy came to the fence and started making noise to get my attention. Clearly, I've still got it.
From the bus, we saw the ceremonial Standing Stones of Stenness There are three and a half stones remaining from an original group of 12 that formed a ring that was 100 feet in diameter. They are believed to date from about 3000 BC (Yes, they are a millennium older than Stonehenge). Not ideal photos, as they are taken from the moving bus.
But, we were able to have a lovely walk around the Ring of Brodgar, which sits on a windswept plain. This area is three times the size of the Standing Stones of Stenness, and is believed to have been constructed 500 years later than Stenness. Of the original stones (believed to number about 60), 25 still stand. The ring was surrounded by a henge (moat) that was 30 feet wide and 20 feet deep. The setting is perfect as the area is a songbird sanctuary and the weather was cooperative. There was something quite special about this place.
We made our way back to the ship via the historic natural harbor, Scapa Flow, which is quite the ship graveyard. During WWI, dozens of ships were sunk here intentionally to block U-boat entry. At the end of WWI, 74 German battleships surrendered here and, as the British Navy celebrated, the German captain ordered that the soldiers sink their ships rather than turn them over to the British. All these sunken vessels have made this a very popular diving site.
Let's close the tour with more idyllic scenery.
Returning to the ship, I experienced a little pang knowing that this will be our last time getting back onboard Sojourn; she will be leaving the Seabourn fleet next May. We had some late lunch, did a big of blogging, and stopped in at 4 PM team trivia.
This was a very special sailaway. The port personnel played bagpipe music, and I was completely undone by "Amazing Grace." They were all out there waving goodbye, some waving flags...it was touching.
We enjoyed dinner with guest relations manager, Jenn Hopley, at Earth & Ocean. She is a delight and we enjoyed every minute.
Here is our favorite bartender, William.
Could this be a sunset?
Photos are tagged Fjord, Kirkwall and Sojourn_25
This featured blog entry was written by Cybercsp from the blog Seabourn Sojourn.
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