Thu 28 May: Matera-Bari (with Monopoli)
The bad news is that I've just found out that tomorrow there's a strike and the trains aren't running for most of the day. I need to get to Lecce. Something to work out. If the strike had been just the one day later or earlier, it wouldn't have been a problem. [Update: I have a ticket for a train this evening. Provided it's running, it should all work out. Arriving in Lecce later than planned.]
I had just enough time in the morning for a quick and final look at the Stassi - my main purpose was to see if I could locate the house where Renato, the tour guide, said his grandfather lived before the government-mandated clearance in the 1950's. Unfortunately I couldn't.
There was only one other person on the bus for Bari when I hopped on. And yes, she was sitting in my seat. No problem sitting somewhere else, the bus was so empty, with only one other person boarding. There was one stopover, with one more person getting, and her seat was the one next to my designated seat. Go figure.
I went to my hotel to drop off my luggage and was told I could even check in. Bonus! My rule of thumb is if I'm staying one night somewhere, I stay in a hotel where I leave my luggage before and after checking in.
I didn't go into the historic centre of Bari itself, I'm saving that for tomorrow. Instead, I went to Monopoli, 40 minutes to the south by train. Monopoli is reputedly a much prettier town than the more-popular Polignano a Mare, 8km to the north. The train there was absolutely packed, almost entirely with tourists.
It's amazing how stepping aside a metre or so can make such a difference.
There was a stiff breeze, and it was considerably cooler today. There was even a shower as the bus was driving through Bari.
One never knows when exploring a new town whether there are many or few gelaterie. I stopped at the first one I saw, even though it didn't have any tables and chairs - I wanted to sit down to enjoy my gelato. About 30 seconds on, around the corner was the gelateria should have gone to. And afterwards I found there were many gelaterie in Monopoli. I paid cash for this one, and had to prompt the person serving me for the receipt. One can never tell whether 'forgetting' to give the receipt is genuine or deliberate. Unless things have changed, I can be fined for leaving the store with a gelato for which I don't have a receipt. It's to make sure that everything goes through the books for tax collection purposes.
Here's what the best-matched couples are wearing:
[Update: Thanks to Joan who suggested the pair are probably crew from one of the yachts]
It was late afternoon by the time I got back to Bari. I headed out a little later for some dinner and explore some of Bari's old town.
There are plenty of other options, just as good, so I can never understand why so many people bother queuing
The waiter says hello to the baby. It's all about family here.
This featured blog entry was written by kiwionthemove from the blog Europe 2026 - Italy (Puglia & Tuscany).
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