Tirana - Kruja - Shkodër
Breakfast
The large Norwegian group is still here at Hotel Austria in Tirana during breakfast this morning, but as they have brought their cases down with them, I assume there are moving on today just as we are. I try something different this morning – the pastry triangle is very light, the ‘ball’ is some sort of doughnut which is very fresh, and rather nice. The cheese tastes like goat, I think, and the rolls are still warm, fresh out of the oven.
Krujë Castle
As we approach the castle, perched on one of the highest points in the town, a parking attendant points to our car and directs us to a car park at the bottom of the hill. Vladimir completely ignores him, and carries on, past the NO ENTRY sign, and up the cobbled street to the castle gate. “I hope I don’t get fined” he says as he drops us off and goes to park the car in the official car park.
Built in the 5th century, the fortress was the centre of Skanderbeg’s rebellion against the Ottoman Empire.
Skanderbeg Museum, AKA National History Museum
Not much of the castle is left standing, but there is a fascinating museum on site displaying objects from the time of Skanderbeg’s reign and is dedicated to the Albanian resistance against the Ottoman occupation in the 15th century.
More steps to negotiate, and my knee can definitely confirm that I overdid the walking and stair-climbing yesterday. The view from the top, however, is worth the effort.
Taking a rest half way up
Pretty flowers and an interesting sign post are found in the grounds.
After completing the guided tour of the castle, Vladimir goes ahead to collect the car while we slowly make our way down the hill through the many souvenir stalls. As far as my knee is concerned, walking downhill is definitely worse than walking uphill. My lungs disagree, of course.
Panorama Restaurant
Vladimir drops us off at the Residents Only entrance to this hotel restaurant, while again he goes to park the car. The restaurant is half way down the hill, and offers good views of the castle, but again all the tables by the windows are taken, so I just wander over to take some photos before we choose a table further in.
The lunch here is a set meal pre-booked “by the office”, which suits me fine, as I struggle to pick something from the menu even if it is in English, as I am unfamiliar with Albanian food.
Beef and vegetable soup, very tasty, albeit a little on the salty side
Beef steak, chicken skewers, potatoes, and something Vladimir describes as "a pancake with vegetables", which is more like a vegetable pie or quiche
Tavë Koze - a lamb casserole very similar to the one we had yesterday
Fresh fruit and kabuni, a traditional Albanian rice pudding from Krujë, made with cinnamon, cloves, raisins and cooked in mutton broth.
George W Bush Memorial
On our way from Krujë, we pass through the small town of Fushë where the incongruous statue of the 43rd president of America commemorates his visit to this unassuming town in 2007 as the first US president to visit post-communist Albania.
Mesi Bridge
In the small village of Mes, this quaint bridge spans the Kir River, and was built in 1770 by the local Ottoman Pasha.
The purpose of the bridge was to connect the city of Shkodër with other cities on the northern side of the river.
Today the bridge is at risk, having been damaged over time by devastating floods, causing cracks to appear.
David risks walking across
These days there is a modern road crossing the river right next to it.
The bridge is 108m long, 3.4 metres wide, 12.5 metres high, and sports 13 arches. It is one of the longest examples of an Ottoman bridge in the region.
I send up a drone to get a different view.
Me, with the drone controls
The bridge and river from above
The small town of Mes
Kir River
Nord Boutique Hotel, Shkodër
Our room key is waiting on the desk in the reception of this quaint hotel when we arrive. After checking in, we go down to the terrace bar for a beer (or three).
Despite being sandwiched between two roads, the thoughtful placement of vegetation gives the terrace a feeling of being quite secluded.
Although the hotel appears to have a restaurant, we are told they don’t serve food, so I ask for another bowl of snacks to go with my beer.
That sure looks like a restaurant behind those glass doors
Some nice spicy snacks will do for now
With no restaurant within walking distance, David goes off to the small convenience store nearby to get some chocolate, while I make do with a cereal bar I brought from home for such occasions. After a few beers we take a very early night.
Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this Balkan Adventure for us.
This featured blog entry was written by Grete Howard from the blog Grete's Travels.
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