Travelling south
Villa Laura and Mount Etna from the lemon groves
It was time to leave the Villa Laura. I really liked the peace and quiet of the setting here but was ready to move on to somewhere new. After breakfast I had time for a short walk down the lane to photograph the lemon groves and get some different angles on the view of Etna.
Mount Etna from Villa Laura
Near the Villa Laura
Our host Davide gave us a great send-off. With Jim behind the wheel we took the autostrada south past Catania and on towards Syracuse. We were booked into a B&B in a small community just outside the city, Le Saline. Our host there, Stefano, was as friendly and welcoming as Davide had been. He showed us to our rooms, which are all named and decorated for a colour. Mine was Green, a small and yes, very green, double on the first floor, with plenty of storage, a good bathroom and a balcony.
B&B La Saline
My room
View from my room
We didn’t linger long but got back into the car, this time with Josie driving, to visit Noto about half an hour away. We found a spot to park (our luck was in again, as it had been yesterday) and climbed one of the steep streets to the main pedestrianised one through the centre, Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi all'Immacolata
Old fountain, and view of the main street
In the Piazza San Francesco d'Assisi all'Immacolata
Cannolo
We stopped for refreshments (amazing cannoli with pistachio gelato!) at a nice bar by the old fountain and took some photos of the nearby church of San Francisco. It was just reopening after the midday closure but we decided to visit the cathedral instead, a little further along the street.
Cattedrale di San Nicolò
The Cattedrale di San Nicolò
This was originally built in the early 18th century in a Baroque style. But a substantial part of it collapsed in 1996, weakened by an earthquake in 1990. Wikipedia details the extent of the collapse:
four of the piers of the southern side of the nave, one of the four piers supporting the dome, the entire roof and vault of the nave, three quarters of the drum and the dome with the lantern, the roof of the south arm of the transept, with many of the cupolas and much of the roof of the right aisle.
It is thought that the collapse was due in part to poor restoration work carried out in the 1950s, using bricks for the roof that were too heavy for the existing walls to properly support.
The cathedral was rebuilt and only reopened in 2007. The interior is a mix of classical Baroque (albeit light and airy) with more modern touches such as the stained glass, which really appealed to me. The walls are painted white, as the 18th century interior decoration was destroyed in the collapse. All the colour comes from those windows and from the beautifully painted dome and ceiling. I was moved by a wooden cross made with fragments from migrant boats.
Door detail
Inside the cathedral
Some of the stained glass
Returning past the Chiesa San Francisco we walked down to see the impressive gate, Porta Reale ('Royal Gate') or Porta Ferdinandea, topped with a pelican. This was built in 1838 to mark the visit to Noto of King Ferdinand II of Bourbon to Noto, and restored in 2014.
The Porta Reale
Pelican and other details
I would have liked to see more of the city but my friends were tiring and wanted to get back to the B&B in time for a rest before dinner, which made sense. Besides, I have a feeling I will come back to Noto one day!
Noto windows
Back at the B&B I relaxed while sorting photos and answering messages etc. In the evening we went to the one restaurant within walking distance, Il Faraone, just across the road. There was a lovely view from the grounds of Ortigia across the bay, but inside was rather soulless and completely empty. But the service was friendly, the pizzas good and the prices very reasonable.
My pizza
Sunset over Ortigia from Il Faraone
This featured blog entry was written by ToonSarah from the blog Travel with me ....
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