Battambang

Travel Guide Asia Cambodia Battambang

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Introduction

battambang market

battambang market

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Battambang is a rural town with a lively market that people from all around come to visit to stock up on food. The main attraction seems to be going for a ride on the traditional bamboo train and let the country rhythm of life win you over. Contrary to what you may expect, the bamboo train is nothing more than a bamboo raft, carriage and a small engine. Just stand by the side of the rails and hop on board; it's as easy as that. Battambang also makes a nice stop-off point to break up the journey between Cambodia and Thailand. The town is also full of elegant colonial architecture and has a very relaxed, chilled-out feel. Grab an icecold beer and relax beside the Sanker River.

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Sights and Activities

Bamboo Train. The term "train" is here used loosely: a large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine. A trip on the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. It is regulated by Battambang's Tourist Police, with a standard rate of USD5 per person, minimum 2 people or USD10 for one person, with discounts for larger groups. Ask the driver to pause at scenic places. The Bamboo Train is running along the new track: it takes about 10 minutes to get to a stop where you can buy drinks and t-shirts:; it then returns along the same route. USD5 per person shared, USD10 solo.
Battambang Circus, Phare Ponleu Selpak (10 min journey by tuk-tuk from the centre of Battambang), ☏ +855 53 952424. Probably the most interesting thing happening in Battambang. You can check their website for the schedule or find the calendar printed on flyers around town. The shows are fun, energetic and exciting and include a range of circus disciplines. The ticket price helps support the NGO school which works with disadvantaged children and teenagers.
Phnom Sampeu. A hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few others caves adorned with Buddhist statues, and a monastery with two Buddhist stupas on the hilltop. The admission charge also includes Wat Banan. It takes about 1 hr to climb the circuit to the monastery on top, with a short-cut leading back down to the shops and restaurants which line the approach road. USD3.
Statues. Battambang is known for its statues, which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities. The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town and province derives from this legend.
Wat Banan. The so-called mini-Angkor Wat, an impressive flight of stairs lead up to a dilapidated Angkor-style temple which is still in use as a Buddhist shrine.
Wat Baydamram. A temple where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the Buddhist monks.
Wat Ek Phnom (About 10 km northwest of Battambang). Angkor-type temple ruin. The road runs along lovely small rivers flanked by trees and small villages making it a generally nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom, you suddenly encounter a giant Buddha statue in the wat, which is certainly picture-worthy. The grounds of the wat also have an Angkorian-era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.
Wat Samraong Knong. Roughly translates as "wat in the forest". An extremely old pagoda on the east side of the Sangker River. The eerie old wat was used as a Khmer Rouge prison, and there were many executions on the premises. A new pagoda is now being built, and there is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, with graphic illustrations, just to the north.

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Weather

Like much of Cambodia, the weather is hot and humid year round. Temperatures are usually between 30 °C and 35 °C during the day but can rise up to 40 °C in and around April. Nights are warm, over 20 °C Celsius mostly. The dry season is from November to March, while July to September are the wettest months.

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Getting There

By Train

Daily trains from Poipet on the Thai border through Sisophon will connect to Battambang by the end of May 2018, and to Phnom Penh by the end of 2018.

By Car

National Hwy 5 from Phnom Penh is 80% paved, though it's a very rough trip in parts. Hwy 5 runs northwest to Sisophon and Poipet. At Sisophon, Hwy 6 branches off to Siem Reap (also a rough trip in parts). In a car, Phnom Penh is around 5 hours away and Sisophon 1 hour.

By Bus

By bus, Phnom Penh takes 5–7 hours and costs USD5-12. Siem Reap takes 4 hours and costs USD4-5. Poipet (Thai border): 2–3 hours, USD4–5. Paramount Angkor Buses run twice daily from Battambang to Pailin via Hwy 57 (2 hours) for USD4. PP Sorya buses go from Battambang to Bangkok, Phnom Penh, Poipet.

By Boat

One boat a day travels from Siem Reap (for Angkor) to Battambang, departing Siem Reap at 07:00 and costs USD20. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boat threads its way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take between 6–12 hours, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.

During the dry season, when the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang, and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up truck.

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Getting Around

The city centre is pretty compact and can be mostly explored by foot. Unhappily, the locals have named the main cross-street 'Pub Street', after the Siem Reap abomination it doesn't resemble at all. Bicycles can be rented from most hotels or private companies for USD1-2 per day. Motorcycles can be rented from USD5 a day. The driving habits of locals are hazardous. Police may try to fine tourists on motorbikes. If pulled over, stay calm, smile, take the key out of the ignition (to prevent the police trying to ransom it), and pay a small fine of USD1–2.

Tuk-tuks and motorbike drivers hang around popular tourist areas. As most of the interesting and useful destinations are quite close to each other, most rides should only cost you USD2–4. More distant trips like Phnom Sampouv (the "killing caves") will cost around USD10, and can be combined with other destinations for a total of USD12–15.

Don't be too stingy with tips. Tuk tuk and motorcycle taxi guys make barely enough to live, especially in the low season.

Small boats serve as ferries (500 riel) and cross the river from in front of the market.

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Eat

There are plenty of places to eat, but after 19:00 some places close and lots of streets become dark, so eating early (around 18:00) is recommended.

You can get some great French-style bread (by French standards) for 1,000 riel a medium-size baguette up north, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main inter-provincial road. The bread that street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, similar to that found in Phnom Penh, baguette-shapes, but sprinkled with sugar. Some people do not notice any difference between the bread sold in the north and elsewhere in Battambang. It is generally of decent quality all across the city.

Apple of Love (La Pomme d'Amour), St 2.5, #63, ☏ +855 12 415513, +855 12 963189. 07:00-22:00. Khmer cuisine with a French twist, sophisticated and creative with pleasant staff. Wine list.
Au Cabaret Vert Restaurant (Au Cabaret Vert-Hôtel à Battambang), Toul Ta Ek, Otakom 2 (5 min from the market by tuk-tuk), ☏ +855 53 6562000, +855 77 991384, ✉ info@aucabaretvert.com. Traditional Cambodian dishes, their speciality is fish amok, complemented by a French-style menu that includes desserts and wine. USD9-16 for a main course, starters USD8-12.
Bamboo Train Café & Bar (Cross the new bridge, 200 m further and it's on the right side just after the pizza house), ✉ gikimduong@yahoo.com. 06:30–22:00. Relaxed atmosphere, delicious food and friendly staff.
Cafe Eden, ✉ cafeedencambodia@gmail.com. We-Mo 07:30-21:00. Western-style river front cafe restaurant run by an American woman. Serves Western and Asian food, and coffee. Kitchen works to Western food handling and preparation standards.
Coconut Lyly, Street 111 (200 m west from central market), ☏ +855 16 399 339, ✉ coconutlyly@gmail.com. 09:00–22:00. Offers a nice compact menu with mainly Khmer dishes. The food is recommendable. USD3-4 for a main course.
Choco l'art Cafe, Street 117 (1½ blocks west of Street 3), +855 10 661 617. 08:00–23:00. Coffee shop with assorted omelets and both sweet and savory crepes. Popular with local NGO workers and some expats.
Flavors of India, Street 121 (Near intersection with Road 1.5), +855 53 731 553. 11:00–22:00. Excellent North Indian dishes with local and imported beers, lassi and noteworthy entrees. Mains from USD 3-5.
Gecko Cafe, St 3 (One block south of Psa Nath Market). Nice atmosphere, limited but very tasty menu. Free Wi-Fi.
Natural (Project of an NGO called Coconut Water Foundation), N091-G34 Rd 3. 20 Ousaphear Village, Svaypoar Commune (St 3, 100 m south of the central market), ☏ +855 89 409 958. A shop and organic coffee place. The shop sells handmade clothes, bags and wallets made by local home based producers and from other local NGOs, watercolour post cards, and pictures made by art students from another NGO. Organic fruit shakes, green tea with fruits and vegetarian breakfast & brunch options. There is also a Khmer lady weaving using an authentic old loom.
Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5. This Battambang mainstay offers a good variety of Khmer, Thai and Western food in an aging-yet-charming setting that echoes the city itself. Vegetarian friendly. Good drinks. USD3-5.
White Rose (Ko Lap Sor) (Almost opposite the Smoking Pot). Huge menu, and some great fruit shakes. This place is a bit more 'Asian' than Western, but is still full of foreigners. Service is chaotic, food is quite good, and the upstairs provides one of the few Battambang eateries where you get an outlook and a breeze.
Ambrosia Cafe, 112 Street 2, ☏ +855 92766938. Su-F 07:00–22:00; Sa 18:00-22:00. Excellent cafe with good western and Khymer food at reasonable prices. They also have a selection of board games and an xbox if you want to play. They have a film night on Tuesdays using a good projector (free, as long as you are eating/drinking there).
Heng Chhay Ly Food Court (3rd Floor), Borei Road off Street 1. 8AM–9PM.
Nary Kitchen (Street 111, 200 m from central market), ☏ +855 12 763 950, ✉ navulthk@yahoo.com. Home of Battambang's original cooking school, this restaurant remains highly popular. A nice range of Asian and Western dishes, $3 to $4.50. Nice shakes. Host speaks fluent English and French. Central.

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Drink

Center Cafe, St 3 (One block towards the river from the Lux Hotel). 07:30–24:00. Cheap and tasty Western and Khmer dishes. The usual beer, coffee and smoothies. Nice atmosphere and tours/bus tickets available at prices much cheaper than the hotels (half the price for a day-bus ticket to Phnom Penh than what the Lux Hotel quotes). Staff speak decent English and the manager/owner is very friendly. USD1–5.
Espresso Cafe (Beside Hotel Royal, inner side of yellow art-deco market). Everything is provided with a smile. Great smoothies. A good family-run Khmer restaurant.
Fresh Eats, St 2.5 (A few doors down from Apple of Love/La Pomme d'Amour). NGO restaurant with a reasonably-priced menu with lots of fruit juices, breakfast foods and make-your-own sandwiches.
Madison Corner, St 2.5, ☏ +855 12 415 513. 06:00–late. The unique pub in town. Enjoy a drink, draught beer, cocktail, home-made rum and a wide range of ice creams and local snacks. Some of the best crepes in Cambodia. A popular meeting place.
Scoop Cocktail Bar (scooprottanakresort@gmail.com), KO St, Romcheak 5, Sangkat Ratanak (River, east bank), ☏ +855 53 953255. 06:00–late. Live sports on a 40 in LCD and 2 LCD 30 inches. Good cocktails, free tapas and snacks. Happy hour 17:00-19:99 and 22:00-23:30: draught beer USD0.75, buy 2 get 1 free, all cocktails USD2.50). USD0.75–5.00.
Street One and a Half, End of St 1.5 (Head south from central market on St 2, turn left and it's at the end/corner of that little street). Good cafe menu with a few snacks but mainly just excellent coffee and drinks. Cool alleyway atmosphere.

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Sleep

Chhaya Hotel and Serviced Apartments, 118, St 3, Svaypor, ☏ +855 53 952170, +855 12 882500, ✉ chhaya.best@yahoo.com. Single, double, and triple rooms, both air-con and fan. Cable TV. The cheaper hotel rooms have a shared bathroom, the more expensive ones have private facilities and a refrigerator. Serviced apartments have large rooms with kitchenette and balconies, large en suite bath, Wi-Fi, cable TV. 24 hr security, free airport/bus station/boat harbour transfers. Hotel: USD4-12, apartments: USD20/night or USD270/month.
Golden River Hotel, Street 3 (A few blocks down from Hotel Chhaya and just before the sign posted turn for the train station). Good clean hotel with the standard facilities you will find elsewhere in Battambang. Staff are helpful and friendly. From USD9.
Here Be Dragons, Riversise East, ☏ +855 89264895. Check-out: 12:00. six bed dorm and private rooms fan or A/C dorm USD4/6; fan or A/C room from USD12/15.
Holiday Hotel, #695, St. 4, ☏ +855 81 999006. Good hotel with elevator and large reception area. Rooms have air-con, Wi-Fi, cable TV, and en suite bath. USD15-20. edit
Hotel Royal, 115 Street (On a side street west of the central market), ☏ +855 16-912034. Check-out: 12:00. Rooftop restaurant. Spacious double rooms with bathroom, hot water and air-con. Clean fan singles and doubles available with shared bathroom and toilets. USD7-10-15-20-25.
Seng Hout Hotel, No 1008B, Rd 02 (50m north of the main market), ☏ +855 53 952900, +855 12 530327 (cell), ✉ chhounseng@yahoo.com. Check-out: 12. Good hotel with elevator and large reception area. Rooms have air-con or optional cheaper fan, free Wi-Fi, cable TV, refrigerator, hot and cold water, and en suite bathroom. Swimming pool. Rooftop with 360⁰ views. (NB: There is a new Seng Hout a few doors from the original - on the corner facing the market. They're of roughly equal quality.) USD10-16.
Ganesha Family Guest House, Street 1. 5, ☏ +855 92-135570. Check-out: 12:00. dorm and rooms dorm bed $4.50c rooms from $11.
Frist Hotel, 210 Street 101, ☏ +855-87-550008. Check-out: 12:00. 6-bed dorm and rooms. Security lockers. Free wifi. Hot water. Air con 6-bed dorm USD5 per person Fan dorm bed USD3 per person. Rooms from USD7.
Hostel BTB Cambodia, Road 121 & Road 102, ☏ +855-17-728038. Air-conditioned 6-12 bed dorms. Security lockers. Free Wi-Fi dorm bed from USD3.25 per person.
Angkor Comfort Hotel, Street 1, ☏ +855 77 306410. Check-out: 12:00. Air-con double room with own bathroom, cable TV, and free Wi-Fi. USD15.
Banan Hotel, National Rd No 5, ☏ +855 77 707789, +855 61 577777, ✉ phaysodavy@yahoo.com. Close to bus station and city centre. Helpful staff. Free Wi-Fi, free bicycles. USD15-25.
Khemara Battambang Hotel, No 224, Old National Rd No 5, Roumcheck 4 Village, Sangkat Rathanak, ☏ +855 53 732727. Very comfortable beds, clean rooms with Internet access (LAN cable, but in some rooms a connection from a nearby Wi-Fi network is available), TV, air-con, fan and a fridge. Car parking possible. Also has great outdoor swimming pool. In room massage available from USD5/hr. Bicycle hire USD4/day. USD15 or USD25 VIP.
Lux Guest House, ☏ +855 92 335767. Rooms include hot water, air-con, fan, cable TV, free Wi-Fi, fridge, and minibar. Rooms are big clean and nicely decorated, as goes for the entire hotel. Staff are friendly, helpful and a little bit shy. Location is close to nice eating places and at a road which is lighted at night. USD8–23.
Phka Villa Hotel/Resort, KO St, Romchea 5, Sankat Ratanak, ☏ +855 53 953255, ✉ phkavilla@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 10 en suite bungalow rooms, 13 m x 18 m swimming pool, free Internet and in-room Wi-Fi, free bicycles, free shuttle to town, airport shuttle (surcharge), car or taxi arranged. All rooms have hot water, air-con, fan, network cable LCD TV, DVD player, in-room safe, mini bar, hair dryer, bathrobe, toiletries. 2 private terraces, one is sun terrace facing the swimming pool. Restaurant and bar open from 06:00–24:00. USD55.
President Hotel (1 km from mid-town. Every tuk tuk knows it.). Incompetently run with plumbing leaks and reception can rarely help with anything. Quite new and quite cheap for a nice room with modern conveniences. USD15.
Teo Hotel, St 3, ☏ +855 53 952288, +855 12 8570487 (mobile). Immaculately clean and well-maintained rooms with double bed, air-con, and fan, hot water, TV, and fridge. Visa and MasterCard accepted. If you are in a room far from the router then Wi-Fi reception may be very poor or unavailable. Indoor restaurant is closed. Unhelpful staff. From USD10.
Au Cabaret Vert, Toul Ta Ek, Otakom 2, ☏ +855 53 6562000, +855 77 991384, ✉ info@aucabaretvert.com. Bungalows around a natural swimming pool. Library, parking, free Internet, tours, car and motorbike, electric bike and tuk-tuk hire arranged, international telephone, laundry and historic film screenings. USD50-66 for 2 with breakfast.
Bambu Hotel, Phum Romchek 5, Sangkat Rottanak, KO St, ☏ +855 53 953900, fax: +855 53 953951, ✉ bookings@bambuhotel.com. 16 rooms, including 4 suite rooms (32 sq m including bath), 6 deluxe superior rooms (27 sq m including bath), 4 deluxe standard rooms (27 sq m including bath). All have en suite baths, air-con, telephone, cable TV, DVD player, access to DVD library, iPod docker, mini bar, safe and private terrace or balcony. Free Wi-Fi, 2 computer terminals in reception for use by guests, salt water swimming pool (14 m x 6) open from 08:00–21:00. Restaurant open 06:00–22:00. From USD66.
La Villa, N 185 Pom Romchek 5 Kom, Rattanak Srok (Just across the river from the central market.), ☏ +855 53 730151 , +855 17 411880 (cell), fax: +855 53 730151, ✉ lavilla.battambang@gmail.com. Guesthouse with a swimming pool in a renovated 1930s French colonial period villa, art Deco furniture and fittings. 7 rooms (6 in the main house and 1 in the house nearby the swimming pool). Each room has a private toilet with bath or shower, hot and cold water, air-con, fan, TV and cable network, 4 poster bed with mosquito net, light summer duvet, wardrobe, work desk, safe, coffee and tea facilities, DVD player with DVD for rent. Book ahead as it is often full. USD55–100.

You can use the form below to search for availability (Travellerspoint receives a commission for bookings made through the form)

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Keep Connected

Internet

Internet bars are starting to appear in most major towns in Cambodia. Connection speeds vary as does the quality of the computers. The best places to go online definately are Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and outside of these centers it's generally also more expensive. In general prices are not much more than US1-2 an hour. Remember to take off your shoes when you enter as a sign of respect and to watch out for small shrines that are on the ground.

Phone

See also: International Telephone Calls

The country code of Cambodia is 855. To call out of Cambodia, dial 001 followed by the country code and telephone number of the other party. Many of the internet bars also have international calling options and you can also arrange calls at post offices. Services are usually run by the governmental telecommunication network Camintel. You can find telephone cards in many shops, starting from serveral US dollars to around US$50. Samart, Mobitel and Shinawrata are the main mobile phone providers, with Mobitel offering the best and most widespread services, although calling from outside towns (countryside) is still tricky.

Post

Cambodia's national postal service offers a wide range of services, though in general things go slowly and are not always very reliable. That said, things have been getting better over the years, and you can expect for your postcard or letter to finally arrive after 5-10, depending from where you send it (avoid small towns) and to where you send it. Prices are around 2000-2,500 Riel to countries in Europe, Asia, Australia and North America, and it's slightly more expensive sending it from more remote places in the provinces. Post offices in Cambodia generally are open from around 8:00am to 5:00pm, with some regional variations. Sendings parcels is only possible from the capital Phnom Penh and it's very expensive as well. You might be better to send it from Thailand, or otherwise check private companies like DHL, TNT or UPS, which are more reliable and might even be cheaper!

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Accommodation in Battambang

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This is version 15. Last edited at 8:02 on Oct 25, 19 by Utrecht. 1 article links to this page.

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