Lusaka

Introduction

Lusaka Saturday Artisans Market

© malmn

Lusaka is the capital and largest city in Zambia. It has a population of about 1.2 million and the city is located in the south central part of the country, on a plateau at an elevation of roughly 1,300 metres above sea level. It is the commercial and administrative centre of the country and functions as a major transport hub for other places in the country. Lusaka is not one of the prettiest, but it does have some some sights interesting enough for travellers, including a lively and colourful market scene.

Neighbourhoods

Roughly, the good neighbourhoods are in the east, and poor ones in the west. Lusaka city centre is purely the administrative capital, and becomes a ghost town after 6:00pm. It is not recommended to walk around alone after that. The main road, Cairo Road, is lined with banks, offices and shops. Lusaka's 3 main bus stations are right in the centre of town- Kulima Tower, City Market and Millennium station. The upmarket areas of Kabulonga, Rhodes Park and Thorn Park have some nice restaurants, and Northmead is famous for bars and nightclubs. The poor areas, compounds, in the west include Matero, Kanyama and John Laing. The area south is called Chawama, a large, sprawling compound.

Sights and Activities

• Kamwala Market for fabrics, clothes, shoes etc.
• Soweto and City Market provide a great feel for everyday Zambian life and are great for food, fabrics, and every possible nik-nak you can imagine. (Do not display any money, phones etc here or you will have them pick-pocketed)
• Kabwata Cultural Village - the cheapest place to buy carvings, jewellery, clothes made from local materials, masks etc. the same items are sold at the Sunday Market in front of Arcades Shopping Centre every week, but at slightly higher prices. Take a minibus from Kulima Tower towards Burma Road, and ask to be dropped off at Kabwata.
• Lusaka National Museum
• Freedom Statue

Lusaka has 2 western-style shopping centres, Manda Hill and Arcades, right next to each other on Great East Road on the way to the airport. Both have South African chain restaurants, such as Rhapsodys and Ocean Basket, and a popular Irish Pub. Arcades also has a bowling alley as well as Zambia's only cinema complex, showing pretty much only American blockbuster films.

Weather

Because of its elevation, Lusaka is less hot than the lower areas of Zambia. In general though it is warm and still relatively humid. Rainy season is from November to March, with a peak in February with over 250 mm of rain. The warmest month is October with average day temperatures of 28 °C, but some temperatures close to 40 °C are possible. In July, nights can be chilly or even cold, but it rarely really freezes.

Getting There

By Plane

Lusaka International Airport (LUN) is located near the capital and Zambian Airways flies from here to and from Dar es Salaam, Johannesburg and Lubumbashi (Democratic Republic of Congo). Other airlines are mainly flying to neighbouring countries, but British Airways flies to and from London.

By Train

Centrally located in Zambia, north of the capital Lusaka, Kapiri Mposhi is the starting point of a two nights train ride to Dar es Salaam on the Tanzanian coast. From here you can travel further by boat or plane to the tropical island of spices, Zanzibar. This so called TAZARA Railway (Tanzania-Zambia Railway) operates scheduled services twice a week, leaving in both ends of the line on Tuesdays and Fridays around 4:00pm, arriving on Thursdays and Sundays at 9.30am in Zambia, but after noon in the other direction in Dar es Salaam.

By Car

Since it is the commercial center and governmental seat of Zambia, all the arterial roads lead to Lusaka.

By Bus

Buses and minibuses depart to/from Lusaka every day from all corners of the country. Lusaka intercity bus station is about 500 metres off the main road, Cairo Road. If you arrive by bus, come out of the bus terminal, turn right, and take the first right again on Freedom way to reach the South End roundabout, the start of Cairo Road. If you arrive late, taxi is advisable- there are plenty available (they're practically a nuisance) and a taxi to Kuomboka and Chachacha backpackers should not cost more than 15,000 kwatcha. Bargain right, and you will get it for 10,000.

Getting Around

By Car

Lusaka's traffic is often gridlocked and can stand still for up to an hour during rush hour. It is not possible to cross from west to south etc. in Lusaka, which means the centre is always crammed. Streets and neighbourhoods are usually well-marked.

By Public Transport

Minibuses are frequent and depart when they are full; usually, they fill up in a matter of minutes. The conductor will shout out the destination as there are no signs/numbers on buses. Conductors will usually happily direct you to the right bus, as the stations can be very confusing! Lusaka has 3 bus stations in the centre: City Market, Kulima Tower and Millennium. Buses only go from the centre to east, west, north or south, which means you might need to pass through one of the stations and change. Prices change all the time according to how the kwatcha fluctuates, so it might be an idea to check with a fellow passenger. Conductors do not always have change so try to have small notes. It is polite to move further down in the bus as people leave, so more can fill up at the front. Let the conductor know you want to be dropped off by knocking on the bus window, or by telling him you are "dropping".

By Foot

Lusaka city centre is easy enough to walk around, if you don't mind the hawkers. Distances between neighbourhoods are big, but some of the suburbs are nice and leafy to wander through.

Eat

Whilst not a gourmet destination there is some good eating to be had in Lusaka. The gradual shopping mallisation of the city sadly means that uninspiring South African chain restaurants are multiplying - but there is still a good selection of independent places scattered around. Lusaka seems to specialise in Indian cuisine. Chindo Road is the closest thing that Lusaka has to a restaurant strip.

If you fancy a change in your maize-filled diet, try an Indian restaurant, which there are plenty of. One of the nicest ones is Mahak, on Great East road, between Lusaka city centre and Manda Hill shopping centre. An all you can eat vegetable thali is about US$2-3.

Arabian Nights Restaurant Ltd, Unit 37, Arcades Shopping Centre (opposite Investrust Bank at Arcades Shopping Centre), ☏ +260 211 257085. 11:00-22:00. Fine fusion cuisine - Pakistani curries, steaks, continental, seafood, game meat, wraps, salads and home made ice-creams. Take-aways available. Their Kitwe branch won the "Best Restaurant in Zambia" award from the Tourism Council and this place is just about equally great. They also have their own ice-cream parlour (vanilla) which makes home-made ice-cream from basic ingredients. It's pricey.
Dil offers some of the best Indian food anywhere and is reasonably priced (though not dirt-cheap). It's in the Ibex Hill area of town, about 15 minutes drive from the city centre, provided there's no traffic. Well worth the drive but a taxi fare each way will cost more than a meal.
Muskaan Good Indian & Pakistani food, slightly cheaper than Dil. There are two sister restaurants in Kabulonga (Muskaan I and Muskaan II). Muskaan I on Chindo road is slightly more consistent (tel: 265976). Muskaan II is on the corner of Haile Selassie Ave & United Nations Ave near the Intercontinental hotel. Menu prices exclude 26% extra in VAT and service - so mains cost around K50,000 and up.
Shamiana, Birdcage Walk (in the Millennium Village behind Intercontinental hotel). evenings. Unfussy Indian restaurant with a talented head chef. Mains around K35,000.
Oriental Garden United National Avenue, opp. German Embassy Indian restaurant and bar - with a nice little terrace and garden.
Diane's Kitchen/Korean Cuisine, on Saise Road (Plot 5018) off of Addis Ababa Drive (look for the 'Korean Cuisine' signs). While owned by a Chinese couple, this restaurant serves pretty good Korean dishes. It even has a separate room with low 'cook at your table' tables. Try the Korean barbecue. Mains from K40,000.
Dong Fang Good local Chinese fare in Long Acres, near Ndeke Hotel.
The Courtyard Hotel at the corner of Thabo Mbeki & Nangwenya Roads near ZNBC's Mass Media Complex must be the premier vegetarian dining spot in the country. Superb mid-priced food ranging across the Indian/Thai/Malay spectrum.
Savanna at the Intercontinental Hotel. Does standard international hotel food in a nice setting by the pool. Both a-la carte and all you can eat buffet 365 days a year. Expect to pay around K100,000 for a meal.
The Marlin Restaurant at the Lusaka Club, Los Angeles Boulevard, Longacres, ☏ +260 211 252 206. Provides quality steaks and Chinese food in a "country club atmosphere" for around US$10.
Taj Pamodzi This upmarket hotel has 2 restaurants for evening meals - one offering buffets that vary according to the day and another a grill bar. Indian ownership reflected in the food served. Check out crocodile kebabs on the grill or some of the excellent vegetarian options. Expect to pay $15 or more for a meal.
Portico's Lusaka's newest hot spot serving homemade Italian dishes. Located at Showgrounds by the polo ground. Groovy decor and new, expanded outdoor area.
Marlin. The Lusaka Club, Los Angeles Boulevard, Longacres. Long a staple of the Lusaka dining scene Marlin is notorious for its pepper steak. Other meats and some Chinese on the menu also. The restaurant has a definite 1970s feel, but is always pretty busy (reservations needed for busy times), and the beef is pretty good (porterhouse a better option than the fillet). Prices exclude 27% in VAT and service. The wine list is exclusively Nederburg. Mains from K70,000.
Melsim Lodge Ethiopian Restaurant, Alick Nkhata Rd (north of the old airport, behind Flamingo Supermarket). Run by an Ethiopian lady the lodge's restaurant offers some pretty authentic Ethiopian cuisine - better to eat in the bar under the thatch rather than in the wedding hall-esque dining area. Meal costs around K50,000 per person.

Drink

Lusaka has many Western-styled bars (e.g., Brown's and McGinty's, mainly used by tourists, and ex-pats). Zambians love to drink; there are, therefore, a number of bars frequented by locals, as well. Unfortunately, these change often.

Arcades Mall hosts 5 restaurants/bars. Times Cafe and Rhapsody's are open till late while Ocean Basket, Michelanglo and Arabian Nights serve food and have great ambiance.
Xenon nightclub in Northmead, often many young people here.
Chez Ntemba has several branches, plays Rumba and African rhythms until the last person leaves.
Majestic Casino has an excellent bar, casino complete with blackjack and roulette tables and slot machines.
Cattleman's Grill at Chrismar hotel hosts live local bands and has a dance floor and restaurant.
Johnny's Chinese is centrally located.
Sam's Sports Bar is on Cairo Road in the town centre.
The Polo Grill has outdoor seating overlooking the Lusaka Polo Club also has a small casino.
Northmead Shopping Centre has an array of clubs and bars including some open 24 hours a day the infamous alpha bar should be tested by all travellers.
The Cha Bar, 161 Mulobwa Close, Fairview. 12:00 - 24:00. This busy, fun and friendly bar is in Lusaka Backpackers, (which used to be called ChaChaCha Backpackers). Its the most easy going place in the centre of the city, and even has great food. Its used by locals and tourists alike and is the place to be if you want to meet people in a place where you don't need to dress up first. You'll get local businessmen in suits for their after work beer and tourists getting out of the pool. There's even an informal taxi rank outside to get you home when you've finished your evening on the local Mosi beer.

Sleep

Bird Nest Backpackers, 4 long acres (United Nations Av, opposite ZICTA), ☏ +260 975241320. Camping/dorm bed/own room. US$5/15/40.
Flintstones Backpackers, Plot 9965 Makata close (off Makish road Fairview), ☏ +260 211-221060. Camping/4-bed dorm/own room. US$5/12/35.
Liberty Boarding Hostel, 5559a Kaleya Road Kalundu, ☏ +260 211-292823. Dorm beds. US$12.
Lusaka Backpackers It is situated off Bwimjimfumo Road, two-thirds of the way down Mulombwa Close on the right-hand side. dorm beds, private rooms. This place used to be called Chachacha backpackers. Dorm bed US$12, room $40. Use caution if booking safaris through them and try to get your itinerary in writing so there is no confusion.
Paseli Backpackers hostel, Plot no 7a Paseli road, ☏ +260 211-233494. Camping/4-bed dorm/own room. US$5/15/38. (updated Apr 2015 | edit)
Wanderers Backpackers, 848 Lagos Road rhodes park (off addis ababa road). Camping and six-bed dorm, owned by Lusaka Backpackers. Camping US$5, dorm bed US$10 per person.
Pioneer Camp (14 km from the Lusaka airport.), ☏ +260 966-432700. Camping with own tent. US$10 per person.
Natwange Backpackers, 20 Kariba, Kalundu. This one is pretty hip, over by the Arcades Mall and Radisson Blu and has a pool, spa, billiards, and breakfast, even though it's just a hostel. ZK 367.
The Abundant Life is an impeccably clean hostel run by a local church. No alcohol allowed on the premises. Staff is extremely friendly. They offer en suite rooms and genuine suites, too, for about US$20. Keep in mind Abundant Life is also a church, and they offer worship services on-site. Don't be surprised (or afraid) if you wake to the sound of the congregation speaking in tongues!
The Ndeke Hotel for about US$45/night. The rooms have double beds and satellite TV, and the hotel features a nice pool, a good bar, and a clean restaurant.
North End Lodge, Great North road (15 min to city center). Check-in: 10:00, check-out: 09:00. A/C double rooms with own bathroom and breakfast; has 7 rooms. from US$12.
Golden Days Executive Lodge, 12238 Mosi o Tunya Road (near woodland stadium). Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:00. Double room with outside bathroom. from US$14.
Lunga Rest Lodge, Karambwe Great North Road (near Karambwe Police Station). Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Double room with own bathroom. from US$19.
Purview Lodges Ltd, Plot 1404 Street Ambrose Road.. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 10:00. Single/double rooms with own bathrooms. from US$19.
Hilton Garden Inn Lusaka Society Business Park, Cairo Road Lusaka ZM, ☏ +260 211324777. It must be one of Lusaka's tallest (and most aesthetic looking) skyscrapers. It has all the amenities of a Hilton Garden property (pool, gym, restaurant, wifi, etc) and is located downtown. ZK 1507.
Fallsway Suites, off Alick Nkhata rd. Massmedia, ☏ +260 974599477. Out by the airport and has a pool and nice ambience; kinda pricey though. ZK 1855.
Radisson Blu Hotel, 19029 Great East Road, ☏ +260 211368900. Pool, spa, breakfast. Very swank and modern, out by Arcades Mall. ZK 1855.
The Pamodzi Hotel. Probably the nicest in Lusaka, having undergone a US$7 million renovation. Helpful staff. However, the food is generally disappointing. edit
The Intercontinental Hotel is a close second. Restaurant service can be slow.
The Southern Sun (ex. Holiday Inn, ex Ridgeway Hotel) is casual and comfortable, but expensive (US$200 per night). Best food of the three Splurge hotels but rooms not the greatest and most are close to a main road.
The Protea Lusaka Hotel is near Arcades and is the newest hotel in Lusaka and will run you about US$150/night for a singe room with a king sized bed. The price includes a breakfast buffet and free wifi accessible from most areas of the hotel. The hotel and restaurant bar area is usually pretty quiet unless there is a conference being held at the hotel. If there is a conference the a la carte restaurant menu is not available, but there is a lunch buffet for about US$25. However, the best part of the hotel is its location in the Arcades, which houses a few of the city's better restaurants. Be wary of a room on the first floor as there is a nightclub in the casino below the hotel, which is noisy on Wednesday and Friday nights.

You can use the form below to search for availability (Travellerspoint receives a commission for bookings made through the form)

Safety

See also Travel Safety

Lusaka seems to have obtained a bad reputation for being a city plagued by crime, but in reality, this is exaggerated. Other African cities such as Nairobi, Johannesburg and Lagos are much more risky. However, travellers should appreciate that walking around the city at night is foolish and that you will become a target for pickpockets if you make your valuables visible. HIV/AIDS is endemic here, so if you have sex while visiting Lusaka, make sure to use a condom and take other appropriate precautions.

Keep Connected

Internet

Internet connections are available even in the smallest towns - they don't always work, and are sometimes slow, but there are, usually, plenty. Uploading photos and files is always slow. Internet usually costs about 100 kwatcha a minute, and in more touristy places 150/200 a minute. Ask for a discount, if you plan to stay online for long, and make sure the time is recorded correctly.

Phone

See also International Telephone Calls

The country code for Zambia is "260." Phone service both within Zambia and into Zambia is very hit-or-miss. In large cities, you are more likely to get regular, dependable phone service, but it is by no means a guarantee. The farther you travel from Lusaka, the less likely you are to maintain a good connection. International calling rates can be as high as $3 per minute.

Cell phones have been booming in recent years, and Zambia has a highly competitive market with three main operators: Airtel, Cell Z and MTN. Generally speaking, Airtel has the largest network, while Cell Z is the cheapest. You can pick up a local SIM card for as little as 5,000K ($1). Prepaid time is sold in "units" corresponding to dollars: figure on 0.4 units for an SMS or up to 1 unit/minute for calls, although as always the precise tariffs are complex.

Avoid using internet on your cellphone (especially if you don't have a local SIM card), except if you have wifi. Switch off data roaming to avoid high costs.

Booths labeled "public telephone" these days consist, more often than not, of a guy renting out his cellphone. Typical rates are 5K/min ($1) for domestic and 15K/min ($3) for international calls

Post

Post in Zambia is slow and not always reliable. A post card to Europe can take between four days and two weeks, and costs about US$0.30. Parcels take longer, and are quite expensive - make sure you only seal your box at the post office, so you can show what's inside. It also works in your advance - if the personnel sees you only have boring soapstone carvings and nothing of value, your parcel is much more likely to arrive. Leave your cards and letters in the biggest post office; it therefore passes through less hands and is more likely to get to its destination. If you want to send a package internationally, use a company like TNT, UPS, DHL or FedEx, as they are fast, reliable and just a little more expensive than the local post.

External Links

• Official Website