Malawi

Introduction

Kids with a Camera

© mhan

Though landlocked in the heart of Africa, Malawi has been blessed with a generous splash of water in the form of Lake Malawi, which encompasses over a fifth of the country's area and stretches from beyond the northern tip to about two thirds of the way south. Maybe it's the lake, but something makes Malawi a refreshing destination. Sure, the country has had its share of hard times - thirty years under the harsh rule of Hastings Banda, for example - and is mired in characteristic African poverty, but the people are hearty and welcoming and their land is a tourist's playground. Predictably, water sports are popular, whether you want to stick your head under the water or you'd prefer gearing up for some windsurfing, sailing or water skiing. But the country's varied geography provides ample opportunity for the photographer in you: tall mountain peaks, sometimes stretching above the cloud line, make for absolutely stunning scenery.

Brief History

The area of Africa now known as Malawi had a very small population of hunter gatherers before waves of Bantus began emigrating from the north around the 10th century. Although most of the Bantus continued south, some remained permanently and founded tribes based on common ancestry.

David Livingstone reached Lake Malawi (then Lake Nyasa) in 1859, and Malawi was originally known as Nyasaland under the rule of the British. In 1944, the Nyasaland African Congress (NAC) was formed by the Africans of Nyasaland to promote local interests to the British government. In 1953, Britain linked Nyasaland with Northern and Southern Rhodesia in what was known as the Central African Federation (CAF), for mainly political reasons.

In 1961, Banda's Malawi Congress Party (MCP) gained the majority in the Legislative Counsel and Banda was elected prime minister in 1963. The Federation was dissolved in 1963, and on July 6, 1964, Nyasaland became independent from British rule and renamed itself Malawi. Under a new constitution, Malawi became a single-party state under MCP rule and Banda declared himself president-for-life in 1970. Despite his political severity, however, Malawi's economy while Banda was president was often cited as an example of how a poor, landlocked, heavily populated, mineral-poor country could achieve progress in both agriculture and industrial development.

Under pressure for increased political freedom, Banda agreed to a referendum in 1993, where the populace voted for a multiparty democracy. Following the elections, in late 1993, a presidential council was formed, the life presidency was abolished and a new constitution was put into place, effectively ending the MCP's rule. In 1994 the first multi-party elections were held in Malawi, and Bakili Muluzi became president. Muluzi remained president until 2004, when Dr. Bingu wa Mutharika was elected. Although the political environment is described as "challenging", as of 2009, the multi-party system still exists in Malawi. Multiparty parliamentary and presidential elections were held for the fourth time in Malawi in May 2009, and President Bingu wa Mutharika was successfully re-elected, despite charges of election fraud from his rival.

Geography

Malawi is a landlocked country in southeastern Africa, bordered by Zambia to the northwest, Tanzania to the northeast and Mozambique to the south, southwest and southeast. It lies between latitudes 9° and 18°S, and longitudes 32° and 36°E. The Great Rift Valley runs through the country from north to south, and to the east of the valley lies Lake Malawi (also called Lake Nyasa), making up over three-quarters of Malawi's eastern boundary. Lake Malawi is sometimes called the Calendar Lake as it is about 587 kilometres long and 84 kilometres wide. The Shire River flows from the south end of the lake and joins the Zambezi River 400 kilometres farther south in Mozambique. The surface of Lake Malawi is located at 457 metres above sea level, with a maximum depth of 700 metres, which means the lake bottom is over 200 metres below sea level at some points. In the mountainous sections of Malawi surrounding the Rift Valley, plateaus rise generally 914 to 1,219 metres above sea level, although some rise as high as 2,438 metres in the north. To the south of Lake Malawi lie the Shire Highlands, gently rolling land at approximately 914 metres above sea level. In this area, the Zomba and Mulanje mountain peaks rise to respective heights of 2,134 metres and 3,048 metres.

Regions

• Northern Region
• Central Region
• Southern Region

Cities

• Lilongwe - The capital
• Blantyre - main city in the south
• Monkey Bay - along Lake Malawi, popular with travellers
• Karonga
• Mzuzu

Sights and Activities

What Malawi lacks on great national parks teeming with wildlife, it more than makes up for it with friendly people and first of all: Lake Malawi. There are however a few parks which are especially awarding just because there is not so much wildlife and tourist numbers are not as high as other parks with small traffic jams.

Lake Malawi

Lake Malawi

© danjali

Lake Malawi is one of the largest lakes in Africa and is even in the top 10 of the world. It is also known as Lake Nyasa and is the southernmost lake of the Great African Rift Valley. It is one of the best places in the world apart from the open sea/oceans to snorkel and dive. The lake is teeming with tropical fish and there are several towns along the lake's coastline that are great to stay with lots of hostels and nightlife. The southern portion is called Lake Malawi National Park and is one the UNESCO World Heritage list. Many travellers will stay at least for days, if not weeks on end. Although part of the lake is located in Mozambique as well, most travellers will visit the lake in Malawi, with better infrastructure and accommodation.

Nyika National Park

Nyika National Park is the first, largest and highest national park in Malawi. It was established in 1965 and is located in the north of the country on an average altitude of about 1,800 metres above sea level. The park is over 3,200 square kilometres big and apart from seeing wildlife is a good place to go trekking, mountain biking or even horse riding. Wildlife includes elephant, buffalo, lion and one of the highest concentrations of leopard in this region.

Liwonde National Park

Mirror like lake in Liwonde NP 2

© aidni

Although Liwonde National Park is not quite as full of wildlife as the other parks, it has a wonderfully peaceful quality to it. Set in a lush marshland, the Shire River is full of hippos, and there are plenty of waterbucks and other smaller antelopes grazing. A canoe trip on the river is a relaxing experience, and the views over the river beautiful. To get there, take a bus to the town of Liwonde, and get off at the bus station (last stop) from there, you can walk or take a bicycle taxi to the park entrance, about 5 kilometres away. At the gate, you pay for the park entry, and ring ahead to your chosen guest house for a pick-up- walking alone is not permitted.

Mount Mulanje Forest Reserve

Situated not far from Blantyre, the star of this reserve is Mount Mulanje itself, a multi-peaked massif rising up to 3,000 metres from the surrounding plain. Though the massif contains a variety of endemic bird, reptile, and tree species, its popularity can be traced more to its hiking opportunities, supported by a network of mountain huts offering cooking and sleeping facilities.

malawi_mulanje bergtop pool 2

© joenstock

Events and Festivals

Lake of Stars Music Festival

The lake of stars is an annual, huge (at least by African standards) festival lasting three days in central Malawi, close to a popular tourist centre, Nkhata Bay. The actual festival takes place in Chintheche, a small town about 1.5 hours south of Nkhata Bay. The dates aren't set, and change slightly each year. Usually though the festival is held during early September. The festival attracts both big, international names, as well as local artists. It is advisable to book accommodation well in advance.

Chilimike

The Chilimike celebrations are Malawi’s New Year festivities, enjoyed on January 1 as a public holiday. As in the rest of Africa, the revelry begins on New Year’s Eve with street parties, traditional music, fireworks and lots of eating and drinking.

Martyrs Day

Martyrs Day is held annually on March 3, which commemorates those who lost their lives during the struggle for independence which began with the uprising against British colonial rule.

Kamuzu Day

Malawians are very proud of their comparatively new country, with Kamuzu Day in May a celebration of the life and work of their first President, Dr. Kamuzu Banda.

Republic Day

Held in July, Republic Day is a national holiday for Malawi people to celebrate its emergence as a democratic republic on July 6, 1964.

Malapenga Dance Season

Beginning in August, the Malapenga Dance Season is a traditional celebration of one of Malawi’s most iconic dance forms. Exhibitions take place all over and are some of the most-loved demonstrations of the country's rich heritage.

Blantyre Arts Festival

This newly created event takes place every November in Malawi’s largest city and showcases traditional and modern theatre, dance, poetry and the visual arts in venues across the area.

Weather

Much of Malawi enjoys a tropical climate with hot and humid weather year round. There are however some differences within the country that are mostly related to the altitude of places. The capital Lilongwe for example is relatively cool with temperatures in the cooler June to September period just around 23 °C during the day and just around 10 °C at night. Other places are warmer in general but as most of the country is on a relatively high altitude it is not as hot as many other surrounding countries, although during the hotter months of October and November temperatures can still get well above 30 °C during the day. May to October is the dry season and from December to April the rainy season, with most rain falling from January to March.

Getting there

Plane

Air Malawi is the national airline of Malawi and has its base at Chileka International Airport (BLZ) in the southern city of Blantyre. Destinations to and from there include Dar es Salaam, Harare, Johannesburg, Lilongwe, Lusaka and Nairobi. South African Airways flies to and from Johannesburg.

From Lilongwe International Airport (LLW) near the capital there are flights to and from Harare, Johannesburg, Lusaka and Nairobi with Air Malawi. Air Zimbabwe flies to and from Dar Es Salaam, Dubai, Harare and London. Addis Ababa, Nairobi and Johannesburg are served with their respective national airlines.

By Car

It's easy to get to Malawi with your own wheels and border crossings with Zambia, Mozambique and Tanzania are relatively straightforward, though have your papers and insurance in order. You can use most border crossings decribed below at the public transport section. Roads are generally in a relatively good shape on the main routes that is.

By Bus

Buses connect the southern city of Blantyre with both Harare in Zimbabwe and Tete in Mozambique, stopping en route in the latter one. There are even buses from Blantyre all the way to Johannesburg, with several companies (City to City, Ingwe, Vaal Africa and Translux) making the trip on a daily basis. It takes about 26 to 30 hours and you can also stop in Harare or Tete.
From Lilongwe there are buses all the way to Lusaka in Zambia, as well as to and from Dar es Salaam several times a week. To Dar es Salaam, buses also stop in Mzuzu in northern Malawi and Mbeya in southern Tanzania.
For Zambia, you can also travel in stages by taking a minibus from Lilongwe to Mchinji and a shared taxi from there to the border. Once you've crossed over the border to Zambia, there are shared taxis waiting- it's about a thirty minute ride, costing around K15,000 to town.
From Chipata, buses usually depart early in the morning to Lusaka.
There are possibilities to get to Tete in Mozambique in stages by taking several bush taxis and minibuses towards the border and onwards across the border to Tete. Anotehr border crossing is between Chiponde in Malawi and Mandimba in Mozambique. From here, there is at least one truck daily between to Cuamba and daily vehicles to Lichinga as well.

By Train

The train journey from Malawi to Nampula in Mozambique is one of the few remaining great train journeys in Africa. The scenery is stunning, the track passes between towering inselbergs and in 2nd class its comfortable enough with waiter service, reserved seating and the option to reach out the window to buy from people with baskets of food at the many stations. It runs in each direction on alternate days except Monday: Nampula to Cuamba on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and Cuamba to Nampula on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. 3rd class costs M175, second class M331, and there's no first class. The train departs at 05:00 every day (except Monday) and takes 10-12 hours. You need to book the day before. The journey is from Cuamba to Nampula (all within Mozambique) meaning that you have to make the border crossing to/from Malawi by local chappa and bicycle and thats lengthy.

By Boat

There are ferries between southwestern Tanzania and Mozambique via Malawi on the MV Songea between Mbamba Bay and Nkhata Bay. From here it goes on to Likoma Island (Malawi), Cóbuè and Metangula (both in Mozambique) on the MV Ilala. The MV Ilala departs from Monkey Bay (Malawi) at 10:00am Friday, arriving in Metangula (via Chipoka and Nkhotakota in Malawi) at 6:00am Saturday, reaching Cóbuè (Mozambique) around midday, Likoma Island at 1:30pm and Nkhata Bay at 1:00am Sunday morning. In southern direction departures are at 8pm Monday from Nkhata Bay and at 6:30am Tuesday from Likoma Island, reaching Cóbuè at 7:00am and Metangula at midday.

Getting around

Plane

Air Malawi has scheduled flights between Lilongwe, Mzuzu and Blantyre and Club Makokola on the southern shores of Lake Malawi. Jakamaka Air Charters offers chartered flights to several specific tourist destinations including the Nyika and Liwonde National Parks and Likoma Island, but are relatively expensive if you are not with a group.

By Train

Central East African Railways operates the train lines in the country. The main line runs north from Blantyre to Balaka and south from Limbe to Nsanje although some parts are still not recovered from the floods years ago. Passenger trains to and from Lilongwe don't exist. Trains are slow and crowded and most tourist use buses instead. Unless you are a train enthusiast of course.

By Car

The road network in Malawi is in a surprisingly good shape and main roads are tarred, albeit potholed in some places. Many other roads are all weather gravel roads. During recent years, more and more companies offer rental cars and Lilongwe and Blantyre are the best places to arrange on (both downtown as well as on the international airports). Traffic drives on the left and you need an international driving permit.

By Bus

There are several bus companies offering daily links between the major cities. Shire Bus Lines has the most buses, including both express services as well as buses which include more stops. It takes around 5 hours from Lilongwe to Blantyre, 7 hours from the capital to Mzuzu in the north of Malawi.

By Boat

The Ilala passenger ferry travels up and down Lake Malawi between Monkey Bay and Chilumba, stopping at many towns and villages in between, including several on the Mozambique side of the lake and Likoma Island.

Red Tape

Nationals of the following countries do not require a visa to enter Malawi for up to 90 days: Antigua and Barbuda, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Botswana, Dominica, Eswatini, Fiji, Gambia, Grenada, Ireland, Israel, Jamaica, Kenya, Kiribati, Lesotho, Malaysia, Mauritius, Mozambique, Namibia, Nauru, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Samoa, Seychelles, South Africa, Tanzania, Trinidad and Tobago, Tuvalu, Uganda, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Nationals of Hong Kong do not require a visa for visits of up to 30 days.

Citizens of most other countries may obtain a $75 30-day visa on arrival, but this is not applicable to citizens of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Egypt, Ethiopia, Iran, Iraq, Kazakhstan, Lebanon, Libya, Mali, Nigeria, Pakistan, Palestine, Russia, Rwanda, Somalia, South Sudan, Sudan, Syria, Tunisia, Turkey, Ukraine, Uzbekistan and Yemen who are required to obtain a visa in advance, which can be applied for at Malawi's embassy in your country. A six month, multiple entry visa on arrival can also be obtained, which costs $150, and a twelve month version of the same visa costs $250.

Money

See also Money Matters

The Malawian kwatcha fluctuates regularly, so it is advisable to check rates before exchanging money. ATM's are only located in larger towns. The ATM's are also frequently out of money (especially on a Sunday), and only distribute small amounts per transaction. Some hostels and vendors will accept US dollars, and there are plenty of places in Lilongwe and other larger towns which will exchange your cash.

Work

There is a little work for travellers in Malawi.

Study

Malawi's largest tertiary education structure at present is the University of Malawi which is made up of Chancellor College located in the heart of Zomba, Blantyre Polytechnic in Chichiri and College of Medicine. Bunda College of Agriculture and Kamuzu College of Nursing are located in Lilongwe. There is also Mzuzu University in the Northern part of Malawi.

Language

The official languages of Malawi are English and Chichewa. English is widely spoken in urban areas and by the well-educated upper class, though outside of that, a few words in Chichewa will go a long way. Chichewa is the first language of the majority of the population, and knowing Chichewa will get you by in most of Malawi though in some very remote areas, learning the local tongue might be essential. Locals always appreciate any attempts by foreigners to speak Chichewa and learning at least a few basic greetings would do well to ingratiate yourself to the locals. Tumbuka is the first language for many people in the north of the country. Chiyao is spoken by the Yao people who live mostly in the Southern District of the country. A multi-cultural country, Malawi has over a dozen indigenous ethnic groups, each with its own distinct language. However, even in those areas, many younger people will be bilingual in the local language and Chichewa.

Eat

Food in Malawi is much of the same as in rest of Southern Africa - the staple food is maize porridge, nshima, eaten with vegetables or, if you can afford it, meat. Bread is commonly eaten for breakfast. In northern part of the country, you can find chapatti as a part of the tanzanian influence. In Lilongwe, there are plenty of fast food outlets, as well as some surprisingly good Italian food. Chicken and chips is a popular dish especially for young people when eating out.

Sleep

Western-standard hotels can be found in Blantyre, Lilongwe, Zomba and Mzuzu, as well as along the shores of Lake Malawi. The Lake Malawi resort hotels cater primarily to international tourists.

There are high-level five-star resort hotels in some rural areas charging western prices.

Drink

Tap water in major cities like Lilongwe, Blantyre, Zomba and Mzuzu is generally safe. Ask at the lodge/house you're at. Some travellers with weaker stomachs may be advised to avoid this drinking water. Bottled water is plentiful in all the major shops.

A traditional local drink worth trying is maheu, a somewhat gritty and vaguely yoghurt like but refreshing beverage made from maize meal. Factory-produced maheu is sweet, comes in plastic bottles and is available in a variety of flavours including banana, chocolate and orange, while home made versions are usually unflavored and less sweet.

The only beers you will generally find are brewed in Blantyre by Carlsberg, and its products are available in restaurants and stores throughout the country. A normal Carlsberg is known as a 'green', but the company also produces Special Brew, Stout, Classic, Elephant, Light and Kuche Kuche. You can also buy imported drinks such as Heineken, Kronenbourg, Smirnoff Ice, Bacardi Breezer and some ciders in certain bars. Malawi also produces its own spirits - notably Malawi Vodka, Malawi Gin, Malawi Rum, Gold Label Brandy and the cane spirit Powers. Malawi Gin & Tonic is a very nice, popular expat drink in the country.

Health

See also Travel Health

There are no vaccinations legally required to travel to Malawi. There are two exceptions though. You have to have a cholera stamp (prove of the fact that you don't have that disease) when entering Malawi overland. And you need a yellow fever vaccination if you have travelled to a country (7 days or less before entering Malawi) where that disease is widely prevalent.

Still, it's a good thing to get your vaccinations in order before travelling to Malawi. The general vaccination against Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio (DTP) is recommended. Also both hepatitis A as well as typhoid would be recommended.

If you are staying longer than 3 months or have a particular risk (travelling by bike, handling of animals, visits to caves) you might consider a rabies vaccination. Vaccination against Tuberculosis as well as hepatitis B are also sometimes recommended for stays longer than 3 months. When staying longer than 6 months, vaccination against meningitis might be recommended, depending on your contact with other people.

Like most African countries south of the Sahara, Malaria is prevalent in the country. Don't underestimate this tropical disease and take precautions. Buy repellent (preferably with 50% DEET), and sleep under a net.

Finally, other possible health issues include diarrhea and other general travellers' diseases like motion sickness. Watch what you eat and drink and in case you get it, drink plenty of fluids (to prevent dehydration) and bring ORS. Also note that Southern Africa and thus Malawi as well has a high percentage of people with AIDS.

Safety

See also Travel Safety

Malawi has been known for years as "The Warm Heart of Africa", and Malawians are known for their friendliness and hospitality. Malawi is not known as a particularly dangerous travel destination for western foreigners and expatriates. Muggings and robberies have occurred in the larger cities, most especially Lilongwe, as well as in some notorious places along the main tourist routes. It is advisable to avoid walking alone at night. If you go out for the evening, make sure you know how you're going back home. Car-jackings happen occasionally so be sure to keep windows shut and doors locked during evening and night journeys (though night driving is not advised - most cars have broken headlights and Malawians tend to walk in the middle of the road at night) and exercise reasonable caution as in any foreign city or rural area. Roads are less safe because many drivers are unlicensed and inexperienced and many vehicles are not inspection-ready; there is also the factor of drunk driving, especially in the evenings, so be cautious. However even half the taxi drivers you will get at night will be drunk...

More recently there have been a lot of pickpockets operating in nightclubs and bars. Just exercise caution, don't bring too much money and cameras, etc. 10 beers is no more than MK2500, so don't bring hordes of cash with you.

Homosexuality is officially banned by the law, and gay couples should exercise discretion when travelling to Malawi. It took a presidential pardon to release a gay couple recently arrested for homosexuality and sentenced to 14 years of hard labour.

Keep Connected

Internet

There are internet cafés in the main cities and tourist locations.

Skyband provide public WiFi hotspots around Airports, Restaurants, Hotels, Conference Areas, Cafe's, Sports Clubs, Bars, Pubs and General Public Areas.s. Credit is purchased with vouchers in denominations of 25MB, 50MB, 100MB, 200MB and 500MB at hotspot locations. The price is high when compared to a data bundle with a mobile provider.

Phone

See also International Telephone Calls

Malawi's country code is 265.

The country's two man mobile gsm providers are Airtel and TNM. For 3G TNM has better coverage with Airtel only really covering the largest cities. Sim cards are available for 200 MWK.

Post

Malawi Posts provides services, that are affordable yet not very efficient or fast. Postcards will eventually arrive though. For parcels, it's better to use international courier services like DHL or FedEx.

External Links

• Official Governmental Website