Marshall Islands

Photo © kuzi

Travel Guide Oceania Micronesia Marshall Islands

Introduction

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The Marshall Islands, like the neighbouring Northern Mariana Islands, were passed from Spanish to German to Japanese to American hands. Like the Marianas, they were the site of fierce fighting during WWII. The Marshalls, however, were treated to the honour of becoming a nuclear testing ground of the United States. Bikini and Enewetak Atolls were deserted as dozens of bombs were exploded. Unable to be settled again, Bikini Atoll has proceeded to become a dumping ground for the radioactive waste of North America and Asia.

While the Marshallese have plenty to be angry about, most travellers are amazed at their friendliness. Culture beats strong, with traditional practices evident in daily life. Beyond anthropological adventures, most tourists are attracted to the Marshalls for their diving opportunities: stunning coral scenery and haunting WWII wrecks are what make the Marshalls killer diving ground.

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Brief History

Spanish explorer Alonso de Salazar was the first European to see the islands in 1526, but they remained virtually unvisited by Europeans until the arrival of British Captain John Charles Marshall in 1788. The islands were named after him in the British maps. However, they were claimed under the Spanish sovereignty as part of the Spanish Oceania. In 1874 the Spanish sovereignty was recognized by the international community. They were sold to Germany in 1884 through papal mediation. A German trading company settled on the islands in 1885. They became part of the protectorate of German New Guinea some years later. In 1914, Japan joined the Entente powers during World War I, and found it possible to capture German colonies in China and Micronesia. On September 29, 1914, Japanese troops occupied the atoll of Enewetak, and on September 30, 1914 the atoll of Jaluit the administrative center of the Marshall Islands.[3] After the war, on June 28, 1919, Germany renounced all of its Pacific possessions, including the Marshall Islands. On December 17, 1920, the Council of the League of Nations approved the mandate for Japan to take over all former German colonies in the Pacific Ocean, located north of the equator. In World War II, the United States, during the Gilbert and Marshall Islands campaign, invaded and occupied the islands (1944) destroying or isolating the Japanese garrisons. The archipelago was added to the U.S. Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, along with several other island groups in the South Sea.
From 1946 to 1958, as the site of the Pacific Proving Grounds, the U.S. tested 67 nuclear weapons in the Marshall Islands, including the largest nuclear test the U.S. ever conducted, Castle Bravo. In 1956, the Atomic Energy Commission regarded the Marshall Islands as "by far the most contaminated place in the world". Nuclear claims between the U.S. and the Marshall Islands are ongoing, and health effects from these nuclear tests linger. Project 4.1 was a medical study conducted by the United States of those residents of the Bikini Atoll exposed to radioactive fallout.
In 1979, the Government of the Marshall Islands was officially established and the country became self-governing. In 1986, the Compact of Free Association with the United States entered into force, granting the Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI) its sovereignty. The Compact provided for aid and U.S. defense of the islands in exchange for continued U.S. military use of the missile testing range at Kwajalein Atoll. The independence procedure was formally completed under international law in 1990, when the UN officially ended the Trusteeship status.

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Geography

The Marshalls consist of 29 atolls and five isolated islands, which form two parallel groups - the "Ratak" (sunrise) chain and the "Ralik" (sunset) chain. The Marshalls share maritime boundaries with Micronesia and Kiribati. Two-thirds of the nation's population lives in Majuro and Ebeye. The outer islands are sparsely populated due to lack of employment opportunities and economic development. The islands are about half way from Hawaii to Papua New Guinea and their geographic coordinates are at about 9°00′N 168°00′E. The terrain is mostly low coral limestone and sand islands and the highest point is just about 10 metres above sea level.

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Regions/Islands

29 atolls and 5 isolated islands make up the Marshall Islands. The most important atolls can be divided into two island chains.

Ratak Chain (sunrise) - The eastern island chain consists of: Bokak Atoll, Bikar Atoll, Utirik Atoll, Taka Atoll, Mejit Island, Ailuk Atoll, Jemo Island, Likiep Atol, Wotje Atoll, Erikub Atoll, Maloelap Atoll, Aur Atoll, Majuro Atoll, Arno Atoll, Mili Atoll and Knox Atoll
Ralik Chain (sunset) - The western island chain consists of: Enewetak Atoll, Ujelang Atoll, Bikini Atoll, Rongdrik Atoll, Rongelap Atoll, Ailinginae Atoll, Wotho Atoll, Ujae Atoll, Lae Atoll, Kwajalein Atoll, Lib Island, Namu Atoll, Jabat Island, Ailinglaplap Atoll, Jaluit Atoll, Kili Island, Namdrik Atoll and Ebon Atoll

Most of the population live on Majuro atoll (the capital) and Ebeye atoll.

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Cities

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Sights and Activities

Laura Lagoon

Laura Lagoon is located at the western end of the Majuro Atoll and is a great escape from it all. You can get here by taking the palm-lined road from the east of Majuro and enjoy the quiet beaches, relaxing, lazying around, go snorkelling on the reef and finally read that book. Life is good here and although it is privately owned, you are allowed here for a small fee.

Arno Atoll

The Arno Atoll consists of more than 130 small islands and is known for it's 'school of love', where young women used to learn the art of making love perfectly. Apart from this though, there is excellent deepsea fishing from Longar Point. You'll have the chance to cath yellowfin tuna, marlin, mahi-mahi and sailfish. Arno is the only atoll reachable by regular boat service.

Alele Museum & Public Library

The Alele Museum & Public Library is a neighbour of the courthouse and is located in Uliga. It has some small but good-quality exhibits of early Marshallese culture. These include the famous stick charts, model canoes and shell tools. The stick charts were a kind of tools used by the Marshallese people to help them memorise wave patterns. This was the key to success amongst the hundreds of low lying atolls.

Bikini Atoll and Island

If there is one geographical name in the world that is famous, this would be the number one. Bikini Atoll is known both for being the location of nuclear bomb tests and because the bikini swimsuit was named after the island in 1946. The latter only happened two days after the first nuclear test on the atoll, and the name of the island was in the news all over the world. If you want to visit, it might be better to read something about Bikini and its history and wether it is safe to visit.

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Events and Festivals

Marshall Islands Memorial and Nuclear Victims Day

This tribute to the victims of the 1954 Bikini Atoll hydrogen bomb explosion ranks among the most serious of all Marshall Islands holidays. Bravo was the most powerful hydrogen bomb the United States had ever tested. People on no fewer than four atolls were forced to evacuate and several experienced severe radiation poisoning. March 1 is a day of prayer, emotional speeches, candlelight vigils, and somber reflection for the current residents of those atolls.

Liberation Day

Each of the Marshall Islands celebrates the anniversary of the day the United States liberated each individual island from Japan during WWII on different days and in their own unique ways. The main Liberation Day event in Majuro is an exciting canoe race, while the atoll of Kwajalein celebrates its Liberation Day with a lively parade, flag waving and a field day between all local schools on Ebeye Beach.

Coconut Cup Regatta

Sailing crafts of all sizes from luxury yachts to traditional Marshallese canoes, are welcome to participate in this unique regatta held in Majuro between late March and early April. Even windsurfers can take part in the main Saturday afternoon race, which follows a triangular pattern to and from the Robert Reimers Enterprises complex. There are also races for miniature canoes called riwut and vessels built entirely from recycled materials. A weekend affair, prizes are awarded on Saturday, a picnic takes place on Sunday and the Marshall Islands Resort hosts a soirée on Monday.

Marshall Islands Constitution Day

May 1 is the anniversary of the day the first Marshall Islands constitution was signed. This was one of the first steps towards complete independence, and today, its people remember this significant event through parades, wreaths and field day competitions among local schools.

Fisherman’s Day

On the first Friday of each July, the Marshalls Billfish Club hosts this exciting fishing competition where vessels depart in the morning and return in the early evening to have their catches weighed and measured. Anglers receive prizes for the heaviest fish, biggest fish, largest number caught, and many more.

Mobil All Micronesia Fishing Tournament

Labor Day weekend in North America is the same weekend the Marshall Islands pays tribute to its working class during Rijerbal Day, held on the first Friday of September. This Marshalls Billfish Club-sponsored fishing tournament is one of the most exciting national holidays. Teams from across Asia and the South Pacific fight to catch the biggest bite at the Uliga Dock on Saturday and Sunday, and receive awards at the Marshall Islands Resort Poolside on Sunday.

Manit (Custom) Day

The most important aspect of Marshall Islands culture, family, is the focus of this cultural festival held the last Friday of September. Anyone on the islands can set up booths and sell food or handicrafts outside the Alele Museum. Basket weaving and coconut husking are among the most popular contests. Local school children perform traditional dances, skits, songs, and stories. The day coincides with the week-long Lutok Kobban Alele festival created to preserve and promote Marshallese culture.

Gospel Day

On the first Friday of December, the population of the Marshall Islands celebrates this national holiday in honor of the American missionaries who brought Christianity to the isolated islands. Like Thanksgiving in North America, family and food are a main focus, but church services play an even more important role in Gospel Day.

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Weather

The Marshall Islands enjoy a nice tropical climate with generally hot and humid weather. Daytime temperatures are around 29 °C to 32 °C throughout the year with little variation. This applies to nighttime temperatures as well, generally being around 24 °C and rarely dropping lower. The wettest months are September to November, with December to April being the dry season. This is also when northeast tradewinds bring some nice breezes which cool things off a bit. Obviously, this is one of the best times to visit, but other months can be equally enjoyable, although a tropical storm always is a possibility.

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Getting There

By Plane

Marshall Islands International Airport (MAJ), also known as Amata Kabua International Airport, is the gateway to the country. Flag carrier Air Marshall Islands is based here in this airport but operates domestic, inter-island flights only. Continental Airlines, operated by its subsidiary Continental Micronesia, flies into Majuro from Chuuk, Guam, Honolulu, Kosrae, Kwajalein and Pohnpei.

By Boat

The only atolls with docks are Jaluit, Likiep, Bikini and Rongelap. Along with Arno, Mili, Ailinglaplap, Namu, Aur, Maloelap and Wotho, they all have safe passages for entry into the lagoon. You need your own yacht or get a berth on one to get here though by sea.

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Getting Around

By Plane

Air Marshall Islands provides domestic services between many of the islands and atolls. The main hubs are Majuro and Kwjalein, between the two it takes around 50 minutes one way.

By Car

Affordable cars can be rented at Majuro and most roads are paved. Traffic drives on the right and your national driver's licence is valid for 30 days. Most other islands and atolls are easily explored by bike or on foot.

By Bus

Majuro has a well organised shared taxi system. Just wave your hand and you will be on your way again. There are also frequent and cheap somewhat larger minivans plying the main routes on the island.

By Boat

Only Arno is served by regular public boats from Majuro, but that is the only scheduled passenger service. State-run supply ships travel irregularly to the outer atolls; the Department of Transportation Office at Uliga Dock on Majuro can provide details.

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Red Tape

Everyone is required to possess a valid passport.

United States and all its territories, Federated States of Micronesia, Republic of Palau, Pacific Islands Forum Countries including Australia and New Zealand are exempted from the requirements of entry visa.

Entry visa will be issued upon arrival to citizens of Japan, Korea, Republic of China (ROC), Philippines and some others provided the duration of the intended visit is no more than 30 days, the visitor have a roundtrip or a transit ticket and a passport valid for at six months.

Citizens of all countries not listed above must present a passport valid for at least six months with an entry visa, a roundtrip or transit ticket before boarding and traveling to the Marshall Islands. The entry visa to Majuro is issued by our Attorney General in the Marshall Islands. It suggested that you email the Immigration Director to request for issuance of entry visa upon arrival at Majuro Airport. Send by email to [email protected] or [email protected] a request for issuance of a visa upon arrival and an attached copy of your passport, visa application, itinerary and entry visa to the next country stop. You will be given a confirmation via email on the issuance of visa upon arrival.

Visas cost $25 for a tourist visa that lasts 3 months. Business visas cost $50. Visas are valid for 30 days, but can be extended for up to 90 days once in the Marshall Islands. You must show that you can pay for your entire time in the Marshall Islands and that you can pay for a departure tickety, or demonstrate that you already have a purchased one. There is a departure tax of $20 tax, although those over 60 years old are exempt.

If you come from a country infected with cholera, you must present an immunization certificate. You must get an HIV test if you plan to work or live in the Marshall Islands, or if you will be staying for more than 30 days.

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Money

Work

It is possible for Americans to get work on either Kwajalein or Roi-Namur Islands in Kwajalein Atoll. Only citizens of the Marshall Islands and US Military personnel are allowed to disembark at Kwajalein Atoll.

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Language

Most Marshallese speak Marshallese and English. One important word in Marshallese is "yokwe" which is similar to the Hawaiian "aloha" and means "hello", "goodbye" and "love".

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Eat

There are many types of different fruits that are available in the different seasons. There are also farms that produce vegetable or raise pigs. Most, if not all, the produce are: breadfruit, pandanus, coconut, corn, tomato, sweet potato, cassava, papaya, pumpkin, "nin" (noni), lime, pigs and chicken. In addition to these, there are stands that sell fruit and traditional food along the road from Ajeltake to Laura.

The Marshall Islands was once known as the world's "fishiest" place, meaning that there was an over-abundance of species of fish that dwell in Marshallese waters. However, there is great uncertainty as to whether this is still true today due to concern over overfishing and destruction of natural habitat by ships' anchors, harmful chemicals & climate change.

There are several restaurants that serve international food. The Marshall Islands Resort's (MIR) Enra Restaurant and Robert Reimers Enterprises' (RRE) Tide Table are among the most well known.

Non-Marshallese owned restaurants include Monica's (Chinese), La Bojie's (Filipino), China Restaurant (Chinese), Special Restaurant (Chinese), Oriental Noodle (Chinese), The Stone House (Japanese) and Aliang Restaurant (Chinese).

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